Solutions for short shaft bushing on rotary switch.

[eddododo]

As far as I can tell, the available rotary switch for my need (3 pole 4 position ) is best served by alpha's 2511 size- specifically SR2511-0304-17K-1A-EV.
I'll spare you the effort and get to the point- the bushing (the threaded part of the shaft) is maxed out in this line in this specific part; I have the part in my possession and it is just too short for the nut to get a good grip through my bass body (it barely catches the thread, and I mean BARELY).

I see 3 ways forward-
1)dig on the internet for a bushing washer thingy that would be a threaded sleeve to reach 'into' the body route to grab the switch bushing.
2) Get the tiny tiny bit of 'catch' between the switch and the nut and loctite it
3) route the bass a little bit- I HATE this idea

Any other suggestions? Any hints on the bushing idea?

 

[line6man]

Routing is the typical solution.

 

[RobbieK]

Yeah I'd say, route or drill (spade or forstner in a drill press). You only need to take a small circle of material a few mm deep. It is common to see this in guitars, even from the factory.

Which switch are you using? I've come across a few over the years with longer threaded parts. Some switches of the same brand/model will have a longer thread depending on the shaft you choose. Invalid Link Removed. Don't ask me why, but the round shaft ones have 8mm of thread, the splined shafts have 6mm.

FWIW, if you have to go without a shakeproof washer, you'll be drilling a small shallow hole anyway. This is for the anti-rotation lug. Without this, a rotary switch will spin and loosen no matter how much you tighten it. (BTW, don't use loctite, especially if your switch has a plastic housing.)

 

[eddododo]

Yeah I'd say, route or drill (spade or forstner in a drill press). You only need to take a small circle of material a few mm deep. It is common to see this in guitars, even from the factory.

Which switch are you using? I've come across a few over the years with longer threaded parts. Some switches of the same brand/model will have a longer thread depending on the shaft you choose. Invalid Link Removed. Don't ask me why, but the round shaft ones have 8mm of thread, the splined shafts have 6mm.

FWIW, if you have to go without a shakeproof washer, you'll be drilling a small shallow hole anyway. This is for the anti-rotation lug. Without this, a rotary switch will spin and loosen no matter how much you tighten it. (BTW, don't use loctite, especially if your switch has a plastic housing.)

Alpha's SR2511 series... the bushing on mine is 9mm, though I may actually measure it and make sure there's no tomfoolery with the specs vs what arrived at my door... interesting looking switch you sent there.. I guess I have the same bushing problem assuming mine measures up.

Thanks for the insight, both of you.

 

[RobbieK]

judging by theInvalid Link Removed for the 2511's the threads should be 6mm. (the M9x0.75 refers to the thread itself, a metric 9mm with a 0.75mm thread pitch.) 6mm is pretty standard for rotary switches. yeah, measure the threads for sure. I presume you've bent back our cut off the lug? if you've just left it, the switch will be held up from the timber.

 

[eddododo]

judging by theInvalid Link Removed for the 2511's the threads should be 6mm. (the M9x0.75 refers to the thread itself, a metric 9mm with a 0.75mm thread pitch.) 6mm is pretty standard for rotary switches. yeah, measure the threads for sure. I presume you've bent back our cut off the lug? if you've just left it, the switch will be held up from the timber.

Yea it's definitely 6mm diameter at the threads.. I have some interesting leads on cheap hardware now that I've found some vocabulary to try out (threaded sleeve, recessed nut, sleeve nut). A common thing is apparently 6mm diameter recessed nuts for bicycle brakes.. the most promising thing I've seen so far, but worse case I'll just swallow my anxiety and thin the cavity

 

[RobbieK]

I doubt very much that bike brakes have M9x0.75 threads. I'd think it'll be M7 or M8, and a more coarse thread at that. like I said make sure the switch isn't sitting up on that lug.

if you have to remove more than 1mm of timber (the height of the flange at the base of the threads) you will need to clear enough space for the whole switch. otherwise you may damage the switch when you tighten the nut.