Nice set of pedals ... about the order, do you intend to place the reverb in front of the Manta?
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Source Audio Sorcerers Society (S.A.S.S) Part 3
- Thread starter gregmon79
- Start date
No man this is just to show what it will be, I also have expression pedal for Moog. Still need to check the order. Do you have any ideas?
Don't know I'm not that into HH.
Sure, but I wouldn't want to ruin your fun. Try different configurations and see what you like.
Manta is controlled with SA Expression pedal, and Moog is also controlled with other expression pedal. That's it... Still trying to figure out all this
@DELACIUS ah, I forgot about that expression pedal. That makes a lot more sense then.
Anyway, when my MWBD2 is attached to the hub and the hub is attached to the laptop, when I click on the Engaged/Bypass button, the pedal makes a loud clicking sound (as though I had stepped on the footswitch). I assume this is the true bypass relay at work? Is this expected?
Anyway, when my MWBD2 is attached to the hub and the hub is attached to the laptop, when I click on the Engaged/Bypass button, the pedal makes a loud clicking sound (as though I had stepped on the footswitch). I assume this is the true bypass relay at work? Is this expected?
Correct, relays make a clicking sound. Modern digital thermostats usually do the same, as does my home theater receiver, and many other relay based devices.
Note that my cats find the clicking fascinating. Give it a try.
rsmith601
Commercial User
- Apr 14, 2009
- 4,461
- 8,356
- Disclosures
- CEO and Co-Founder, Source Audio
We are going to be doing a video series called "countdown to NAMM 2015". One of them will include some shots of the delay for sure!!I'd like a photo of the new delay for Christmas
Thanks! I always thought the clicking from my air conditioner was from a bimetallic strip. Looks like that's how outdated I am. And come to think of it, that must be why my family TV makes that sound too.Correct, relays make a clicking sound. Modern digital thermostats usually do the same, as does my home theater receiver, and many other relay based devices.
Note that my cats find the clicking fascinating. Give it a try.
I like that tip about cats. I'd be afraid of my pedal getting scratched though.
Okay so.... an update on my MIDI controller attempts, I've fixed the problem I was having with a powered USB hub to simultaneously control the Source Audio and Zoom pedals together. However, I'm having a different problem now.
I suspect I was using a loophole in the Hub programming to control via MIDI USB. Could anyone from Source Audio confirm this: I believe that the Hub only accepts MIDI via USB after using the Hub Manager on laptop to overwrite all scenes on the hub. By default, when you turn on the Hub, it won't accept MIDI USB.
So that means that when I turn on my pedals and midi controller, I can't control the Hub by USB MIDI. To control it, I had to connect to laptop, re-load all the scenes, then connect it back to my MIDI controller, and finally reset my MIDI controller to recognize the Hub again. If I powered down the Hub, and then turned it on again, it doesn't respond to USB MIDI again until I repeat that process.
If this is really the case, that's a pity... looks like I've to get a 5-pin MIDI controller then. Since the SA controller is still going to take quite some time I'll look for a Midi Mouse locally or something.
I suspect I was using a loophole in the Hub programming to control via MIDI USB. Could anyone from Source Audio confirm this: I believe that the Hub only accepts MIDI via USB after using the Hub Manager on laptop to overwrite all scenes on the hub. By default, when you turn on the Hub, it won't accept MIDI USB.
So that means that when I turn on my pedals and midi controller, I can't control the Hub by USB MIDI. To control it, I had to connect to laptop, re-load all the scenes, then connect it back to my MIDI controller, and finally reset my MIDI controller to recognize the Hub again. If I powered down the Hub, and then turned it on again, it doesn't respond to USB MIDI again until I repeat that process.
If this is really the case, that's a pity... looks like I've to get a 5-pin MIDI controller then. Since the SA controller is still going to take quite some time I'll look for a Midi Mouse locally or something.
Interesting stuff! I've sent an email to SA about whether there are MIDI messages I can use to control the Hub itself (load and store scenes specifically) as I'm working on a MIDI Designer configuration for my iPad, but no response from them so far. If you know about control messages to use I would be really happy if you'd share them.
Oh wait it's fixed. I think the key to controlling by USB midi is scanning for devices. I noticed that even though my MWBD wasn't changing settings, every time I pressed a button on my controller, the "recall last" light flashes. So that suggested that the Hub -was- receiving MIDI, just that for some reason it wasn't sending out. After pressing the "scan devices" button, it sent out easily.
As for whatever details I know, I don't think my info would be very useful to you - you'd probably already know all this. This is all I know:
1) The 128 MIDI PC messages from 00 to FF directly correspond to scenes 0 to 127. e.g. If I send MIDI PC 0A, then the Hub will load scene 10. This is also the same system that the Zoom MS series uses. When you're in patch scrolling mode, MIDI PC 00 corresponds to patch 1, MIDI PC 01 to patch 2, and so on. You can make use of this to control both at once.
2) I don't know if there's any message to -save- scenes. However, I guess it should be fairly easy to just press and hold to save scenes?
3) I have not tried sending CC by USB. But I guess it -should- probably work
Anyway, here's a video of it in action! I think while sealing up the box I accidentally messed up the LEDs on the right, but I'm too tired to fix it now.
Once I clear up the mess, I'm going to try this with my entire pedalboard, and go program a few of my actual presets into the hub.
As for whatever details I know, I don't think my info would be very useful to you - you'd probably already know all this. This is all I know:
1) The 128 MIDI PC messages from 00 to FF directly correspond to scenes 0 to 127. e.g. If I send MIDI PC 0A, then the Hub will load scene 10. This is also the same system that the Zoom MS series uses. When you're in patch scrolling mode, MIDI PC 00 corresponds to patch 1, MIDI PC 01 to patch 2, and so on. You can make use of this to control both at once.
2) I don't know if there's any message to -save- scenes. However, I guess it should be fairly easy to just press and hold to save scenes?
3) I have not tried sending CC by USB. But I guess it -should- probably work
Anyway, here's a video of it in action! I think while sealing up the box I accidentally messed up the LEDs on the right, but I'm too tired to fix it now.
Once I clear up the mess, I'm going to try this with my entire pedalboard, and go program a few of my actual presets into the hub.
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Thanks! Sending PC as well as CC messages that the pedals react to work already. I would also like to not only tweak the pedal settings from the iPad but also be able to store and load scenes in the hu. That way I could edit presets from the iPad without having to reach down and push the buttons on the Hub which will be hidden under a hinged shelf on my pedalboard. I'll hope for a response from SA. (BTW: I'm using 5-pin MIDI).
This is the current state of the iPad control, it would be cool if I could also control the Hub:
This is the current state of the iPad control, it would be cool if I could also control the Hub:
I'd say store the presets using Hub Manager first so you can recall them from iPad then. I'd be interested to know too whether there's a MIDI command for "save scene". Also, this gives me an idea, an iOS/Android hub manager app would be pretty useful to change settings on the go.
I love the layout you created! In fact, if you're not using a wireless, it would be pretty cool to mount some iDevice on your bass to change settings easily while on stage. e.g. playing a note, then using an iPad mini to move a flanger up and down.
I love the layout you created! In fact, if you're not using a wireless, it would be pretty cool to mount some iDevice on your bass to change settings easily while on stage. e.g. playing a note, then using an iPad mini to move a flanger up and down.
- Apr 19, 2001
- 2,302
- 3,047
- Disclosures
- Beta tester Source Audio, demos/reviews of many others
+1 for an official iPad app. I love what you're doing with the iPad so far @FretNoMore hioefully there's a way to share those files you are making.
I have been at a loss for what video to make next. There's plenty out there on the Manta, already went through the OFD. The only other thing I have is the hub and that's been covered also. Only thing I can think is a dedicated distortion/fuzz only run through on the Manta. Is there something anyone here would like to see in detail?
I have been at a loss for what video to make next. There's plenty out there on the Manta, already went through the OFD. The only other thing I have is the hub and that's been covered also. Only thing I can think is a dedicated distortion/fuzz only run through on the Manta. Is there something anyone here would like to see in detail?
I already have the Manta, so I don't need a demo video of that (btw I'm currently using the second preset for my grittiest dist/fuzz at the moment!). But I've a suggestion: make a video in a full band context. There's too many videos on YouTube of pedals (not just SA but in general) and how they sound like alone, but not enough videos of how well they sit with heavily distorted guitars... or whatever other contexts where these pedals might be useful. It's more work, but I think it presents a much better representation of the pedal.
But other than that, I second the idea of a video for using the Manta for purely distortion/fuzz, and different ways to use the filters (pure distortion with zero filter resonance, using filter as a moveable EQ, etc.)
By the way, the suggestion of videos in a band context goes to the guys at source audio too! There ARE some official videos of jamming with the pedal, but mostly drum and bass jams. What would be cool is to have guitars, bass and drums, all on Source Audio pedals and playing a variety of genres to show that the pedals are not just for weird synthy effects, but also good for straight up pop or rock.
But other than that, I second the idea of a video for using the Manta for purely distortion/fuzz, and different ways to use the filters (pure distortion with zero filter resonance, using filter as a moveable EQ, etc.)
By the way, the suggestion of videos in a band context goes to the guys at source audio too! There ARE some official videos of jamming with the pedal, but mostly drum and bass jams. What would be cool is to have guitars, bass and drums, all on Source Audio pedals and playing a variety of genres to show that the pedals are not just for weird synthy effects, but also good for straight up pop or rock.
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Another question: does anyone have any idea why the hothand rings have subtly different LED colours? I have one from my HH3 and one from my HH USB, and I just ordered a spare ring.
The one that came with the HH USB doesn't have a 'click' when you press the on/off button, but it's still the one with the separate X/Y/Z axis (i.e. not the older hothand). The other two have a 'click' when you press the button.
The one that came with the HH USB is somewhat turquoise, the one that came with the HH3 is a bright, clean Facebook blue, and the spare that I just ordered is slightly darker, I'd say it's somewhat navy. I assumed the first two were different colours since the construction is obviously different (no click on the HH USB ring), but comparing the three, I'm surprised the new one is a darker blue too. Has there been some changes to the ring construction over the past year or something?
Also, trivial point but I've also realized the LEDs flash at different rates on different rings
I got them in sync to try to take a photo of the different colours, but they started to go out of sync. Anyway, I've come to realize that the colour difference doesn't show up that well in photo.
Invalid Link Removed
The one in the middle and right don't look that different in photo, but trust me when I say that in person the colour difference is a lot more pronounced! The one on the right is noticeably darker than the other two.
The one that came with the HH USB doesn't have a 'click' when you press the on/off button, but it's still the one with the separate X/Y/Z axis (i.e. not the older hothand). The other two have a 'click' when you press the button.
The one that came with the HH USB is somewhat turquoise, the one that came with the HH3 is a bright, clean Facebook blue, and the spare that I just ordered is slightly darker, I'd say it's somewhat navy. I assumed the first two were different colours since the construction is obviously different (no click on the HH USB ring), but comparing the three, I'm surprised the new one is a darker blue too. Has there been some changes to the ring construction over the past year or something?
Also, trivial point but I've also realized the LEDs flash at different rates on different rings
I got them in sync to try to take a photo of the different colours, but they started to go out of sync. Anyway, I've come to realize that the colour difference doesn't show up that well in photo. Invalid Link Removed
The one in the middle and right don't look that different in photo, but trust me when I say that in person the colour difference is a lot more pronounced! The one on the right is noticeably darker than the other two.
