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Special Edition Build-off - 4003w new build

I can confirm that bone stinks when machined. Whew, doggies!!! I couldn't finish the nut in one shot. Its an intense smell! Will try again this week with the windows and doors open.

Finished making the pickguard. The two mini switches positions will look okay.

Working on making pickup covers. I want to see if a walnut toaster will work. Here's where it is so far. Its a work in progress. The pickguard and tops of the covers were cut with the CNC laser, so they fit perfectly.

Why does the last 5% of a project take so long?

Toaster pickup covers (2).jpg
final pickguard.jpg
 
One's for pickup selector, the other is for mono/stereo. Stereo meaning the pickups will output separately on a stereo jack. Its Ric-O-Sound.
Hi fair enoght when I had a Greco copy of the Rick 4001 bass I just added a 2 nd out put jack and used the same type Rick used the stereo type and used a stereo lead . I made up my Ricko sound via a pvc box and 2 mono plugs comming out of the box off 2 diffrent amps only used it for about 3 times
 
A TB guy named @Aceonbass makes custom Ric harnesses that will output to a single stereo/mono jack in one hole. I kinda wish I'd bought one when I built my clone, the double jack holes leaves a weak spot in the body edge I would have been better to avoid. @41hzthunder obviously doesnt need any help in the electronics department, but it might come in handy for the less electronically astute among us (me).
 
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If I recall correctly, the 3/4" switchcraft jack required a 7/8" or possibly 1" hole. That didn't leave much material above or below. No problems with that one, but still seems thin and weak. A single barrel jack (stereo) just allows me to sleep at night! :)

Tried hand sanding the bone nut and was pleasantly surprised. Much less odor and its very workable. Its also easy to bring the bone to a shine. I actually kind of like it now. Still need to slot it for strings.

The "toaster" pickup is coming together nicely. Sanding the flatwork back was scary. To get it into the cover, the ends had to be taken back to almost hitting the wire. At one point, it seemed like the wires were touch, but the meter said different. Now just need to put Solarez on it to fill the pores and spray urethane on.

pickup and nut (2).jpg
 
Come to think of it, you might try a 3/4" hole in scrap and see if you can get the jack to fit with a little selective filing with a rat tail. I think I drilled 3/4" first and then widened it later, but the entire hole may not need to be that big. If you can orient the jack so any extra wood comes off the SIDES of the hole, you might be able to keep it a 3/4" hole measure top ot bottom.
yIKMt5L.jpg
 
Slow progress. Seems like a lot of details in the end. Pickguard was a bit translucent and was darker where it went over the walnut. Sprayed white paint on the back and solved that. Need to clean out the pegholes for the machines, as they were just too tight. Filing the string slots on the nut. Mounting the bridge. Still haven't drilled for the jack! Just details. Should finish this weekend.

The pickup cover is coming along. Needs to be buffed to a shine. Decided to put a walnut top on the bridge pickup. Just want some custom touches for this one.

Pup cover and bridge pup (2).jpg
 
Slow progress. Seems like a lot of details in the end. Pickguard was a bit translucent and was darker where it went over the walnut. Sprayed white paint on the back and solved that. Need to clean out the pegholes for the machines, as they were just too tight. Filing the string slots on the nut. Mounting the bridge. Still haven't drilled for the jack! Just details. Should finish this weekend.

The pickup cover is coming along. Needs to be buffed to a shine. Decided to put a walnut top on the bridge pickup. Just want some custom touches for this one.

View attachment 3861458

Those look really great. I missed it somewhere, but what finish are you using?
 
Those look really great. I missed it somewhere, but what finish are you using?

The filler is Solarez, which builds and fills well. Love the 1 minute cure time. Sands easily and gives a flat surface to work with. Then its semi-gloss Helmsman Spar Urethane in a rattle can. I like that it can build a thick film in just a few coats, doesn't run and is durable. It does add an amber color, so may not work on all projects.
 
How thick can the wood cover on the pup be before it affects the magnetic pull? I'd like to try that sometime.

The simple answer: Wood can't affect the magnetic field.

The better answer: I would limit the thickness to 1/42" to 1/8". Get your beer and chips, this is long. Its a matter of how far the magnet/poles should be from the strings. If the wood is too thick it will hit the strings. If its too thin, it will be saturated with the glue or even be transparent.

There's a lot of poorly set pickups in terms of height adjustments. There's a perception that closer is louder = better. But, too close and the magnets pull the strings and their overtones out of tune. You can hear it. Its better to seek overdriven tone by changing the inductance of the PUP coil and keep the magnet away from the strings. They should be at least far enough to not effect the tuning or suck the life out of the strings. Magnets/pole pieces can keep strings from fully vibrating (lost sustain). Additionally, inductance and capacitance play a big role with magnet strength (guass/flux density) to shaping the tone. Wood does not affect any of this and properly set for height, there should be plenty of room for a thin veneer of wood.

If building a full cover, the sides and bottom support are important, plus any epoxy reinforcement. You can also make a very thin plywood from veneers that should be more than strong enough for the task.

My beer is finished and I now have to go the fridge! Hope this wasn't too long.