SPECTOR® Club - Part 24

[Basstovsky]

Oh I agree, I lived with that album in my CD player forever. You can here the bass pretty good on that track though.

Here's another tone I totally hear in my head when you say SPECTOR!

Invalid Link Removed


again, nothing else comes close to that tone!

Definitely a very ballsy spector tone!

Their music isn't really my thing, although I haven't really listened to any of their stuff since I saw them with Shinedown (not much a fan of them either) and Ra way back in '03 or '04.

They did a pretty awesome cover of Fleetwood Mac's "The Chain" though.

 

[grendle]

I love my Euro, as it has replaced my Fender as my #1, but that's one of the most biased and ignorant things I've ever read on talkbass.

Biased maybe, Ignorant, No. I have played a ton of fenders over the years trying to find what everyone likes about them and find one with the "magic". Most that I have played have serious quality issues right out of the box. From loose frets, uneven frets, sharp frets, dead frets, miss cut nut, warped necks (side to side twist, Very common), severly over bowed necks, loose neck pockets ( I fit a quarter in on the treble side! REALLY!???) mis matched bridge saddles, crooked bridges,.. it goes on and on. And that is on mostly US and MIM basses. In the last 6 years or so their quality has gotten markedly better. The MIJ products are/ were generally good over all, the MIM and US basses have gotten much better as well. The big surprise in the line up are the Squires. Those are probably the best bang for the buck in the line up imo. If your going to build a bass for 50+ years and are the originator of the bass you should have it down pat, be getting it right, and be building the best. If not, after all those years, your just peddling junk to people who are either willing to buy junk or just dont know better. ymmv.

 

[grendle]

Well, notice that I only said that about the Spector Legend series.

I have no doubt that the Euro and especially USA models will easily out-do a Squier.

For me it's not about how low you can get. It's about the neck. The neck is everything in a bass for me. The shape has to be right. The fingerboard edges have to be smooth. The frets have to be smooth. The neck finish can't hinder thumb movement.

The neck on the Legend just did not meet my standards. The necks on the Squier VM basses have.

NT or bolt on legends?

 

[XtraLongScale]

Just putting it out there that if you or anyone you know are looking to sell their 1st generation Rebop 5 (dot inlay), I'm HIGHLY interested. Help a brothaman out! Thanks.

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f11/need-1st-gen-spector-rebop-5-string-846423/

I put a post up on pg 10 asking if anyone had or knew anyone who was selling a 1st gen Rebop 5. While I'm still looking for that, I'm thinking a Rex 5 would do the trick for me just as well (I know there's a few on the GC used site - just wanna see what else is out there) so if anyone here on TB wants to unload one, feel free to let me know. Thanks!

Time to call off the dogs. I just bought a Rex 5 from GC a few minutes ago. Should be here in a few days. Way stoked. Thanks to delucajohn2000 & LimaGuy for keeping an eye out for me during my frantic search.

 

[KingRazor]

NT or bolt on legends?

Bolt on. Wasn't aware they even made NT ones.

 

[cjmodulus]

Have you seen / heard the "Anesthetize" live recording DVD? If not, you must! Loads and loads of the Spector tone in a live setting. As great as the studios albums are, Porcupine Tree is even better in concert. The dynamics of a live performance can't be beat.

I'll have to check it out. His tone was pretty sweet when I saw them at radio city music hall. It was a special show, they started in a small acoustic set up (with piano and upright bass) then came back in full swing. They played both parts of 'the sky moves sideways', the middle section of anesthetize, and most of the Incident song cycle.

Easily one of the best shows I've been to.

 

[silvertripper]

Biased maybe, Ignorant, No. I have played a ton of fenders over the years trying to find what everyone likes about them and find one with the "magic". Most that I have played have serious quality issues right out of the box. From loose frets, uneven frets, sharp frets, dead frets, miss cut nut, warped necks (side to side twist, Very common), severly over bowed necks, loose neck pockets ( I fit a quarter in on the treble side! REALLY!???) mis matched bridge saddles, crooked bridges,.. it goes on and on. And that is on mostly US and MIM basses. In the last 6 years or so their quality has gotten markedly better. The MIJ products are/ were generally good over all, the MIM and US basses have gotten much better as well. The big surprise in the line up are the Squires. Those are probably the best bang for the buck in the line up imo. If your going to build a bass for 50+ years and are the originator of the bass you should have it down pat, be getting it right, and be building the best. If not, after all those years, your just peddling junk to people who are either willing to buy junk or just dont know better. ymmv.

+1 ^^^ what he said....

 

[5StringFool]

Bolt on. Wasn't aware they even made NT ones.

The customs are set neck I believe. Not sure if they make them any longer, but you can find them used. There's a nice bubinga one in the classifieds here, but it's on hold.

Check out this fiver:http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPECTOR-LEG...2?pt=Guitar&hash=item2a180fa3b2#ht_658wt_1139

 

[KingRazor]

The customs are set neck I believe. Not sure if they make them any longer, but you can find them used. There's a nice bubinga one in the classifieds here, but it's on hold.

Check out this fiver:SPECTOR LEGEND 5 CUSTOM | eBay

Interesting. However, my preference is actually for a bolt-on. I prefer the fact that if the neck suffers damage, it can be replaced much more easily than on a neck through.

 

[grendle]

Here's the deal bobome, I would suggest finding the best deal you can on either a Spector, MM, Jazz, or P or "?????" <-- <-- <-- insert other bass name here..... these are all fine instruments and all have their place in music. If you buy a nice MIA Standard Jazz for say $750.00 which for $750 its a good deal, if you don’t like it you can sell it and make your money back. Then buy a MM or Spector or something else. But I would imagine you will buy something, then Gas for something else, then gas for something else, it happens to all of us and its a blast and keeps us ALL coming back to the TB Classifieds!!

Your approach to your first bass is certainly realistic and applauded, but don’t stress out about it. Have fun with it and enjoy the ride! And once you find something be sure to post pics, we'd love to see what you decided on!! [/QUOTE

So here is my question, rephrased: If money was no object what bass would you go for and why?

Thank you so much for answering my previous post.

Peace.

I think it would be a 35" scale US NS2 Doug Wimbish sig for me. They don't make those, but they probably would (34" scale is std on the US model)

My Euro Dougie is a 35" and it's pretty much my idea of the perfect bass for me. The neck is slightly thinner width and thickness wise then a std euro, its about the thickness and shape of a SDGR at the 3rd fret but stays that way all the way up with very little flattening or widening. I think it's the best neck I've played, ever. I'm an old fart and a music store junky so that kind of says a lot lol. The improved tension and clarity of the 35" scale is awesome, don't know how I played a 34 for so long. I've actually never been this satisfied with a bass before. I would chose the US for one reason only, the tone. My euro doesn't lack at all, and sounds REALLY, really close to a US. But I'm now convinced that last tiny little bit is in the US maple they use . Mine has the US top, and sounds different from the other euro's I've played, acoustically , even before you plug it in. This is comparing it to the Blue / Black US at bass central, That one has the magic also.

I wouldn't be unhappy with my Dougie, but we were talking money is no object lol. And yes it would be green as well

 

[grendle]

Bolt on. Wasn't aware they even made NT ones.

Gotta play a NT ( also known as NS2000'S) their a different animal and similar to a SSD. The quality on those Korean basses is really good. Those and the NS2A's are great (NS2A's are a bit better). They blow away pretty much anything that's not hand made. I know and agree with the necks being sharp on some of the legends that I have played ( my rebop was too). The NT's feel "rolled" and the shape is a little different. My 2000 4 has a neck profile more like a forte ( flat C) I have played a few though that have more the euro profile ( ns2000/Q4 had that, like a D).

They go pretty cheap used and there is nothing wrong with them. Slap a MM114 pre in there, EMG's and your in business ( most come with HZ's and the BT preamp, which sound pretty good too). People hear korea and think cheap, untill you play one of those. There's a reason the guys here like the NS2A's.

 

[grendle]

Interesting. However, my preference is actually for a bolt-on. I prefer the fact that if the neck suffers damage, it can be replaced much more easily than on a neck through.

Been playing for 20+ years, never had an issue with a NT bass or a bolt on that would require anything of the sort. Defiantly the last reason for not buying a NT bass. Or at least what the f**der guys that do have to replace 1 piece spaghetti necks will tell you.

 

[silvertripper]

Been playing for 20+ years, never had an issue with a NT bass or a bolt on that would require anything of the sort. Defiantly the last reason for not buying a NT bass. Or at least what the f**der guys that do have to replace 1 piece spaghetti necks will tell you.

"Speghetti Necks"?? Well now well now... thats not a very nice thing to say....

 

[worshiprocker]

silvertripper i know where you are coming from, i understand completely, me thinks. You have to deserve you next bass and/or it's a thrill to upgrade etc, it's part of the ride.

However, i am a bit of a masochist and i'd prefer to go for the kill. I have good reasons for that but they are way beyond the scope of this GREAT site.

So here is my question, rephrased: If money was no object what bass would you go for and why?

Thank you so much for answering my previous post.

Peace.

Spector Euro 4 LX Black Cherry

Alder Body with Figured Maple Top, 3-Piece Maple Neck-Thru Body with Rosewood Fingerboard & Crown Inlays, EMG P/J Pickups, Spector Tone Pump Preamp, Gold Hardware,
Invalid Link Removed

 

[grendle]

"Speghetti Necks"?? Well now well now... thats not a very nice thing to say....

LOL heard a road tech call them before ( He toured with a bunch of different bands and was with Van Halen for 3 tours I believe). He used to complain that he had to adjust them pretty much every show. They do move a lot. He did say the MM necks were pretty stable though for being one piece, they are are pretty beefy as well.

 

[CarlosRoberto5]

They used the Badass for some time after Ned's designing of the NS2. If anything, Ned followed suite himself with the Steinberger L2 bridge that has very similar saddles, but had intonation screws.....30 years ago.

The Spector bridge just seems too archaic to be something Ned Steinberger designed after the fact.

+1

Not to derail any spaghetti-related discussions, but I was wondering if you two gentlemen could PRETTY PLEASE post pictures of your NS2O and NSCR4FM (respectively)?
I'm really into the "plain", natural, highly-figured Spectors. I wanted to see you guys' basses to get a comparison & stuff.
PRETTY PLEASE AND THANK YOU!

 

[KingRazor]

Been playing for 20+ years, never had an issue with a NT bass or a bolt on that would require anything of the sort. Defiantly the last reason for not buying a NT bass. Or at least what the f**der guys that do have to replace 1 piece spaghetti necks will tell you.

Yeah, I suppose the best thing to do would just try them both and see which one I like better.

Still have no interest in the Legend series. I figure if I'm going to get a Spector, I might as well get a SPECTOR, know what I'm saying? As in get a Euro or USA model.

 

[PhatBasstard]

Just another thought. Could having the saddle angled back hold your string in the groove more? I mean when the saddle's flat, the point where the string meets the saddle would be the center (or end) of the string groove. Angled it meets at the beginning of the groove and then the rest of the groove holds it, instead of just the last half the groove holding the string. Thus having maximum string to saddle contact.

I trust Jimmy Eppard's advise. He's set up more basses, let alone Spector basses than I can imagine. I trust his advise as much as I would trust a college professor's opinion on their subject. You listen to your Doctor, right? He's my basses Doctor. But that all it is, advise and opinions. You take what you want and leave what you don't. If that means not doing what is advised, then so be it. To each his own. I personally take it, and will pass it on when asked.

+1

Except for the sheer, raging contradiction that their new intonatable (improved?) bridge doesn't even have a saddle tilt adjustment.
Nor does their other choice, the Hipshot A (a bridge that is hugely popular among many boutique builders, including Spector).
Wanna' guess why?

I challenge you to find me a major (or even not so major) production bridge that has a (Forward/Backward) tilt adjustment for the saddles.
Do you know why you won't?

 

[cjmodulus]

Yeah, I suppose the best thing to do would just try them both and see which one I like better.

Still have no interest in the Legend series. I figure if I'm going to get a Spector, I might as well get a SPECTOR, know what I'm saying? As in get a Euro or USA model.

Proud Spector legend owner who has played several euros here.

I love my legend. You stated the neck is not for you. That's cool. I like the feel of mine. It works for me. As far as sound, it's not as super ballsy as the euros I've played, and I find it to be a tad less versatile, but I can still get a great sound out of it. And it still sounds like a Spector. I get the feeling like a pickup change could really help it shine though.

My point is, if it has the Spector name on it, it's a Spector. I know several club members have played/owned performer models (the series that is technically 'below' the legends) and really liked the sound/feel. They're all just different flavors, you know?

 

[JPSBassist]

Except for the sheer, raging contradiction that their new intonatable (improved?) bridge doesn't even have a saddle tilt adjustment.
Nor does their other choice, the Hipshot A (a bridge that is hugely popular among many boutique builders, including Spector).
Wanna' guess why?

I challenge you to find me a major (or even not so major) production bridge that has a (Forward/Backward) tilt adjustment for the saddles.
Do you know why you won't?

OK. Sorry... I hate to break up Phat's rant but my friend you couldn't be more wrong about the Hipshot bridge and the new USA Spector bridge with intonation screws.

The port in the back that allows the screw to go through the body of the bridge is wide enough to allow for the 14 degree headstock angle on Spector basses.

And look at it like this... you don't have to angle your saddles because the anchor point for the string on every bridge Spector has used... from the Leo Quan to the Hipshot to the current Spector Designed bridges provide an angle of at least 10 degrees when the saddle is FLAT.

Matching the angle of your saddle is suggested to give maximum surface to surface contact between the string and the saddle and thus lessen the likelihood of snapping a string.

Look at these photos to see what I mean. You CAN easily adjust the Hipshot (got one on my B.O.B. bass) and the Spector Bridge. It's not going to bend the screw or mess up your saddles because the port is widened to allow for play in angling the saddles.

And even the Leo Quan has height adjustment screws... you can't adjust the angle of the saddles but look at the angle of the string to the saddle in my old NS-2JA-R (first picture below)... which had the saddles as low as they could go... see that angle?

Which is why the Badass I bridge has a reputation for being a string snapper. If you raise the saddles the surface to string area lessens and becomes like a razor. If you have a heavy playing hand you'll snap your D and/or G strings.

And lastly, what's the big deal? I mean Phat I've got nothing but love and respect for you but you seem to get worked up about stuff as if it's some sort of thing these companies are doing to mislead people or something.

I just spent a week with Stuart and I promise you the guy is not about misleading or BS-ing people. You may not agree with his choices... heck... sometimes I don't... but he's a super person and he does care about the people who buy ANY of his instruments... Performer to USA.

I promise you there's no conspiracy or anything like that afoot here. A lot of luthiers seem to think that matching your bridge/saddle string mount angle to your headstock angle increases sustain because there's a symmetry to the tension place on the string at either anchor point. Thus increasing the energy of the vibration between the points.

Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed

Link Removed