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johnsonabq
Watch out where the huskies go...
Ya know... I usually stay away from black, but that's one black bass I could get into. Beautiful!
So most people like the OBP-3 better than the Tonepump.
Would you agree with this? : OBP-3>Trim Tonepump>EMG BTS?
Does anyone have a Spector with EMG 40P, 40J, and the Tonepump? Did Spector make a bass with this configuration (or did someone mod theirs)? Ive got the parts on the way
This guy recorded a bunch of different clips with all of the pickups he tried in his Spector Rebop.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/emg-dc-cs-p5-comparison-soundclips-799204/
I have to say, I really like the sound of the P5 and am definitely considering it for one of mine.
Yeah on the other side of the roundabout from the industrial park (where I used to work actually)
It's definitely nicer than it was before they renamed it, but I still saw a coke-spoon on the floor the last time I was there...
Porkbun said:So most people like the OBP-3 better than the Tonepump.
Would you agree with this? : OBP-3>Trim Tonepump>EMG BTS?
Does anyone have a Spector with EMG 40P, 40J, and the Tonepump? Did Spector make a bass with this configuration (or did someone mod theirs)? Ive got the parts on the way
I like the pump over the Aggie. But that's me. I have a 35p/j with a pump but its not factory.
Thanks! I have to decide if I want P/J or J/P.
I think I will like the trim TP more than my super hot old TP.
Greetings all:
I picked up a used EMG P/J set and put it in my NS2A last night but it has raised a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone here can help me with.
Here's my preamp - according to my research and also to pics on the Spector Fan Community in Japan site, this is a Korean copy of the 9V USA circuit.
Link Removed
I removed the Spector branded passive pickups and put the EMGs into the same input posts on the preamp with the same polarity.
The P p'up is attached to the F-PU IN PUT posts:
Link Removed
and the J p'up is attached to the R-PU IN PUT posts:
Link Removed
My assumption here is that F-PU means Front (neck) p'up and R-PU means Rear (bridge) p'up. However the controls come out as shown below (and it was also this way with the original passive p'ups so I don't think in's an installation issue):
Link Removed
The volume knob controlling the P p'up is toward the rear of the bass and next to the treble control while the volume knob controlling the J p'up is toward the front of the bass and next to the bass tone control. To me this seems like a 180 degree reversal of the volume knobs.
So now, if you're still with me, on to the questions:
1) Is this control layout as it would have come from the factory?
2) The volume controls are somewhat interactive. With both volume controls on full, reducing either control to around 90% changes the sound and then from 90% to 0 seems to have no further effect on the blend of the two p'ups. However, with one volume knob already on 0, the opposite volume knob has a uniform effect on that p'up volume across the full range of the pot. This is the same behavior I experienced with the passive p'ups. Is this normal?
3) In researching this upgrade, I came across a 2010 post from JPS discussing the need to change pot values when switching from passive to active p'ups. I also read where other people had good results without changing the pot values. Being essentially lazy, I decided to leave the p'up values the same to start with and see what I got. Have there been any further updates that you're aware of as to the necessity of changing pot values? (FWIW, other than sounding better, it doesn't seem any different from a control standpoint)
4) Finally, is there a schematic or circuit board legend for this NS2A preamp? I looked all over for 9V to tie in to and ended up splicing into the red wire from the battery. (I did disconnect the bridge ground - thanks JPS)
Thanks for reading this whole thing and thanks in advance for any info you might have. I did use the search function extensively but could well have missed something in the results. If so, my apologies.
Thanks
Jon
I picked up a used EMG P/J set and put it in my NS2A last night but it has raised a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone here can help me with.
Here's my preamp - according to my research and also to pics on the Spector Fan Community in Japan site, this is a Korean copy of the 9V USA circuit.
Link Removed
I removed the Spector branded passive pickups and put the EMGs into the same input posts on the preamp with the same polarity.
The P p'up is attached to the F-PU IN PUT posts:
Link Removed
and the J p'up is attached to the R-PU IN PUT posts:
Link Removed
My assumption here is that F-PU means Front (neck) p'up and R-PU means Rear (bridge) p'up. However the controls come out as shown below (and it was also this way with the original passive p'ups so I don't think in's an installation issue):
Link Removed
The volume knob controlling the P p'up is toward the rear of the bass and next to the treble control while the volume knob controlling the J p'up is toward the front of the bass and next to the bass tone control. To me this seems like a 180 degree reversal of the volume knobs.
So now, if you're still with me, on to the questions:
1) Is this control layout as it would have come from the factory?
2) The volume controls are somewhat interactive. With both volume controls on full, reducing either control to around 90% changes the sound and then from 90% to 0 seems to have no further effect on the blend of the two p'ups. However, with one volume knob already on 0, the opposite volume knob has a uniform effect on that p'up volume across the full range of the pot. This is the same behavior I experienced with the passive p'ups. Is this normal?
3) In researching this upgrade, I came across a 2010 post from JPS discussing the need to change pot values when switching from passive to active p'ups. I also read where other people had good results without changing the pot values. Being essentially lazy, I decided to leave the p'up values the same to start with and see what I got. Have there been any further updates that you're aware of as to the necessity of changing pot values? (FWIW, other than sounding better, it doesn't seem any different from a control standpoint)
4) Finally, is there a schematic or circuit board legend for this NS2A preamp? I looked all over for 9V to tie in to and ended up splicing into the red wire from the battery. (I did disconnect the bridge ground - thanks JPS)
Thanks for reading this whole thing and thanks in advance for any info you might have. I did use the search function extensively but could well have missed something in the results. If so, my apologies.
Thanks
Jon
Yeah on the other side of the roundabout from the industrial park (where I used to work actually)
It's definitely nicer than it was before they renamed it, but I still saw a coke-spoon on the floor the last time I was there...
Yeah, I seen that AC/DC cover band Dirty Deeds there last year. We actually opened for the band he use to play for Fat Angus about 20 years ago in New Bedford....
Yeah, I seen that AC/DC cover band Dirty Deeds there last year. We actually opened for the band he use to play for Fat Angus about 20 years ago in New Bedford....
Did they do the thing where the vocalist and guitarist jumped up on the bar, pouring jack daniels into peoples mouths while playing "She's Got The Jack"?
We opened for them last year, dec. 23 I think it was. They were ridiculous, but entertaining.
Porkbun said:So most people like the OBP-3 better than the Tonepump.
Would you agree with this? : OBP-3>Trim Tonepump>EMG BTS?
Does anyone have a Spector with EMG 40P, 40J, and the Tonepump? Did Spector make a bass with this configuration (or did someone mod theirs)? Ive got the parts on the way
I had the tone pump in my euro4lx... Installed the OBP-3 this past week and was blown away! I REALLY like the Aggie allot, but that's just my opinion. The tone pump is not a bad preamp by any means. All this IMO.
rockstarbassist
Inactive
Hey guys,
Been away for a little bit working on our record, but just had a question I wanted to pose-
Brownie is my baby, my #1, etc.. However the issue we're running into tracking it, it just seriously overpowers everything guitar-wise, and I know while that's a great thing on Talkbass (lol), in reality it just means the bass gets turned further down and down in the mix, which isn't good.
I tried using my Euro 4 on most tunes, but really I feel lost not on a 5 string haha. That'll teach me to go outside my comfort zone, and my performances really suffered because of that.
So I'm looking for something a little more affordable and less overpowering from a bass standpoint to maybe go back in and use-
I'm trying to decide between the Mike Kroeger 5 and the Legend 5 Classic models. Really this will just be an extreme backup bass, and then something I can use on this and future records that just isn't so powerful or "woofy". I know some of it has to do with the custom Circle K strings I use but we play live way way more than recording so I dunno. i'm thinking about just trying thinner strings on Brownie and seeing how that works too. However I do need a backup, so either of these would work...
thoughts between cats who have owned/played both? Promise to get some clips up soon! The only we have finished I used my ex SR5 on and while it sounds ok, definitely not up to what I think my Spectors could do, of course...
Been away for a little bit working on our record, but just had a question I wanted to pose-
Brownie is my baby, my #1, etc.. However the issue we're running into tracking it, it just seriously overpowers everything guitar-wise, and I know while that's a great thing on Talkbass (lol), in reality it just means the bass gets turned further down and down in the mix, which isn't good.
I tried using my Euro 4 on most tunes, but really I feel lost not on a 5 string haha. That'll teach me to go outside my comfort zone, and my performances really suffered because of that.
So I'm looking for something a little more affordable and less overpowering from a bass standpoint to maybe go back in and use-
I'm trying to decide between the Mike Kroeger 5 and the Legend 5 Classic models. Really this will just be an extreme backup bass, and then something I can use on this and future records that just isn't so powerful or "woofy". I know some of it has to do with the custom Circle K strings I use but we play live way way more than recording so I dunno. i'm thinking about just trying thinner strings on Brownie and seeing how that works too. However I do need a backup, so either of these would work...
thoughts between cats who have owned/played both? Promise to get some clips up soon! The only we have finished I used my ex SR5 on and while it sounds ok, definitely not up to what I think my Spectors could do, of course...
Amazing collection.
How does the SSD NS4CR and Euro 4LX with the Haz compare in tone to the Brooklyn Spectors?
I have yet to do a tone dump on the Euro 4LX. But I can say that the SSD NS4CR (Blue Burst) and USA NS-20 sound more "high fi" (more gain/volume/punch) than their original electronics. The Korean preamp that was in the NS-20 was just "flat" IMO. The SSD original preamp is CLOSE in comparison to a Hazlab with a 20db boost from a recording pre-amp as they almost sound IDENTICAL FYI. Any solid wing maple Spector should sound KILLER with a Hazlab. Of course every piece of wood is different so it will boost what is already there.
It's hard to compare the SSD to the Brooklyns or even the Brooklyn vs Brooklyn because each of those basses sound different in comparison to each other. I did notice that the earlier Brooklyns (both 1983's) sound more "dark" in comparison to the 1986 White USA though..
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