SPECTOR® Club - Part 73

[Torn Bassist]

So I had a little adventure in setup…
haven't had my euro very long, so I decided to try some different strings- had a set of DR hi beams 40-100 and wanted a bit more body so I picked up a set of lo riders, 45-105.
Oddly enough, the E and A strings were too big for the stock cut slots. Kind of odd, but I have a nice set of files so I went ahead and widened them, smoothed them out (they were pretty roughly cut, not a great job) and took the opportunity to go a bit deeper as they nut was cut pretty high.
I decided to go ahead and do a full setup and intonation, and to try a no- relief setting with the truss (or see how low I could get a playable action) The bass seems to have a tiny bit ski jump going on but the neck straightened out like a champ, and I was able to get a very low action- this bass rivals a couple Smiths and the majority of instruments i've owned. I liked the factory setup, but it's now got straight up shredder action and the heavier strings are sounding excellent, much better.
Anyone else have to cut their nut wider/ deeper on their euro 4? Maybe it's just cut for the signature preference, since it's an Ian Hill…
Also wondering about neck relief and anyones experiences/ preferences.
The neck has been extremely stable thus far.
Thanks!

I like the DR Lo-Rider strings, I use the 45/65/85/105 stainless set on the NS2 with the BEM neck with the relief at .010"

 

[Torn Bassist]

While there are differences in the neck, I find them both quite comfortable.
I'm relatively close to the border, but it's a ferry ride for me, too. That $160 ($80 both ways) ferry ride eats up most of the cost savings of driving over to pick it up. Stupid Vancouver Island. They'd undoubtedly question it going back, unless I had the bass with me when I went across & bolted the neck on before travelling back.

I absolutely love my Spector's sound & playability. There's no doubt about that.



I have a friend who can fret level for me, but it's the inside of the neck that needs sanding & leveling before I can glue the fingerboard down.

This project has gone from simple rod pull to cutting the truss nut to pulling up the fingerboard only to find that the Rebop DOES NOT have a removable rod.

I have a rod on order, that hopefully will be here in the next week. I'm going to try to fix the neck, but it might be a better idea to jump ship on this & leave it to someone with better talents.

That is a big task and if you don't feel comfortable doing it then you might contact a few of your local guitar shops to see if you can find someone....sounds like the only way to keep the costs down!!

 

[Wolf Tower 5]

While there are differences in the neck, I find them both quite comfortable.
I'm relatively close to the border, but it's a ferry ride for me, too. That $160 ($80 both ways) ferry ride eats up most of the cost savings of driving over to pick it up. Stupid Vancouver Island. They'd undoubtedly question it going back, unless I had the bass with me when I went across & bolted the neck on before travelling back.

I absolutely love my Spector's sound & playability. There's no doubt about that.



I have a friend who can fret level for me, but it's the inside of the neck that needs sanding & leveling before I can glue the fingerboard down.

This project has gone from simple rod pull to cutting the truss nut to pulling up the fingerboard only to find that the Rebop DOES NOT have a removable rod.

I have a rod on order, that hopefully will be here in the next week. I'm going to try to fix the neck, but it might be a better idea to jump ship on this & leave it to someone with better talents.

I would seriously look into a Craig's list or EBAY 5 string legend then. Your probably looking at 350-450 and if you don't mind parting ways with your old Spector, I'd throw the HZs back in it and sell the bass as a whole "as is" and then sell off the EMG 40 Js on another. Or if you get lucky, you may be able to use the EMG Js in the legend. You have the unique situation of having a quality back up in the Jackson 5er, and those EMG Js should fit those stock Jackson PU's. Sell that ReBop and get your legend 5er. You probably would be close to even money. I'm sure there is someone out there that would pick it up as a project piece.

Any which way, I hope you find a cost effective way to get back in the Spector World without destroying your wallet. I had my ReBop in the shop for a couple days getting two of the pots switched out( I can't solder worth a darn, I just screw it up), so I know what it feels like when your baby's gone or out of commission.

 

[Holdsg]

Anybody ever try stringing a 34 inch scale Spector BEAD? How is the B sting floppiness?

 

[Tracebassplayer]

Anybody ever try stringing a 34 inch scale Spector BEAD? How is the B sting floppiness?

A bunch do. depends on the gauge of the string.

 

[Tracebassplayer]

This project has gone from simple rod pull to cutting the truss nut to pulling up the fingerboard only to find that the Rebop DOES NOT have a removable rod.

I have a rod on order, that hopefully will be here in the next week. I'm going to try to fix the neck, but it might be a better idea to jump ship on this & leave it to someone with better talents.

Sent you a PM

 

[Worldeeeter]

Anybody ever try stringing a 34 inch scale Spector BEAD? How is the B sting floppiness?

Dunnit. I used LaBella M70 steels. Higher gauge for tuning down. Worked great on my 34" NS-4CR.

 

[Holdsg]

So I take it the higher gauge offsets somewhat the lower tension?

 

[johnsonabq]

So I take it the higher gauge offsets somewhat the lower tension?

Higher gauge = higher tension when all else is equal.

My question is, where do you find four string sets that give you the gauges, say, .65, .85, .105, .125 for true BEAD tuning?

 

[Holdsg]

I already know the answer to this one:

You don't, you buy 5 string sets and eat the G string, or if you are lucky and can find a store and brand that will sell you single strings, there are a few of those around, like bassstringsonline.com.

 

[johnsonabq]

I already know the answer to this one:

You don't, you buy 5 string sets and eat the G string, or if you are lucky and can find a store and brand that will sell you single strings, there are a few of those around, like bassstringsonline.com.

Yeah, kinda figured that was the case.

 

[worshiprocker]

Higher gauge = higher tension when all else is equal.

My question is, where do you find four string sets that give you the gauges, say, .65, .85, .105, .125 for true BEAD tuning?

BSO lets you build custom sets on most of the brands they carry. or some companies are making balanced tension strings now so you don't have to go that thick.

 

[Worldeeeter]

Higher gauge = higher tension when all else is equal.

My question is, where do you find four string sets that give you the gauges, say, .65, .85, .105, .125 for true BEAD tuning?

You don't necessarily need those gauges to tune BEAD. The LaBella M70s are just 0.005" larger in diameter than standard/medium gauge (.050, .070, 0.090, 0.110), and they worked. They aren't as tight as standard E-tuned, medium-gauge strings, but I knew that wasn't gonna happen.
The bridge and/or neck nut on a 4 won't accommodate a 0.125 string without some creative filing, right?

 

[pickles]

Just like short scales sound fatter than long, lighter strings can sound great at low tunings. Its not that chimey piano sound, its more fat and round. Loving my NS4 PJ at Eb with 45-105 steel lo riders, would do fine at D or even Db. If you went 115 at B that should be in the same ballpark on tension.

 

[grendle]

So I had a little adventure in setup…
haven't had my euro very long, so I decided to try some different strings- had a set of DR hi beams 40-100 and wanted a bit more body so I picked up a set of lo riders, 45-105.
Oddly enough, the E and A strings were too big for the stock cut slots. Kind of odd, but I have a nice set of files so I went ahead and widened them, smoothed them out (they were pretty roughly cut, not a great job) and took the opportunity to go a bit deeper as they nut was cut pretty high.
I decided to go ahead and do a full setup and intonation, and to try a no- relief setting with the truss (or see how low I could get a playable action) The bass seems to have a tiny bit ski jump going on but the neck straightened out like a champ, and I was able to get a very low action- this bass rivals a couple Smiths and the majority of instruments i've owned. I liked the factory setup, but it's now got straight up shredder action and the heavier strings are sounding excellent, much better.
Anyone else have to cut their nut wider/ deeper on their euro 4? Maybe it's just cut for the signature preference, since it's an Ian Hill…
Also wondering about neck relief and anyones experiences/ preferences.
The neck has been extremely stable thus far.
Thanks!

No issues with the nut slots here. That's my usual gauge as well. As for the necks, their usually extremely stable. Slam that puppy low ( preferably with some fret buzz) and it should stay there forever. I rarely ever have to adjust my necks once I get them where I want them ( a hair of relief from flat). Here's the cool part. Play around with the set up a bit, you'll be surprised what different set ups will do for the tone of these basses. A little buzz brings out the growl, dropping the pickups will alter it too, more bite? Raise em up. Rounder tone ? Give it a little relief, more bite? Back to the pups. Never seen other basses react to a setup like a Spector. Lots available there, just gotta experiment a bit.

 

[grendle]

Anybody ever try stringing a 34 inch scale Spector BEAD? How is the B sting floppiness?

It isn't. That's the beauty of good construction. About as tight as most 35" scale basses honestly. The NSCR, NSCRFM's, and early euro 5's were 34" scale. Great basses too.

 

[grendle]

Just like short scales sound fatter than long, lighter strings can sound great at low tunings. Its not that chimey piano sound, its more fat and round. Loving my NS4 PJ at Eb with 45-105 steel lo riders, would do fine at D or even Db. If you went 115 at B that should be in the same ballpark on tension.

Lol I tune to dropped C# with 105's. tried a 110 set that I'm really liking so far though.

 

[Trailight]

Anybody ever try stringing a 34 inch scale Spector BEAD? How is the B sting floppiness?

I had my Forte set up to BEAD for a long time. Didn't bother me at all. I used DR Nickel Lo Riders and I was quite happy. 65-85-105-120

 

[Trailight]

I already know the answer to this one:

You don't, you buy 5 string sets and eat the G string, or if you are lucky and can find a store and brand that will sell you single strings, there are a few of those around, like bassstringsonline.com.

You order from Jason at Basstringsonline.com and ask for a set of 4 strings with whatever gauges you want.

**oops just noticed that Donny mentioned it...

 

[awilkie84]

That is a big task and if you don't feel comfortable doing it then you might contact a few of your local guitar shops to see if you can find someone....sounds like the only way to keep the costs down!!

The shop who opened the neck up quoted me at around $450-500 for the work.
Another shop in town told me $6-700.
There are no other luthiers in my area who are willing to take on such a task, but both of those prices are beyond what it's worth.

I would seriously look into a Craig's list or EBAY 5 string legend then. Your probably looking at 350-450 and if you don't mind parting ways with your old Spector, I'd throw the HZs back in it and sell the bass as a whole "as is" and then sell off the EMG 40 Js on another. Or if you get lucky, you may be able to use the EMG Js in the legend. You have the unique situation of having a quality back up in the Jackson 5er, and those EMG Js should fit those stock Jackson PU's. Sell that ReBop and get your legend 5er. You probably would be close to even money. I'm sure there is someone out there that would pick it up as a project piece.

Any which way, I hope you find a cost effective way to get back in the Spector World without destroying your wallet. I had my ReBop in the shop for a couple days getting two of the pots switched out( I can't solder worth a darn, I just screw it up), so I know what it feels like when your baby's gone or out of commission.

I have this issue with eBay where I can never see the used items. I only ever get the new store stuff, despite my search being just "Spector bass" and no filters.

Because there are no Spector dealers in my province, they're few & far between. Because of this, they also fetch ridiculous prices. People are asking over $1000 locally for ReBop 4's and $1800 for Euro 5's. The only Legend I saw used in the last 2 years was $600 for a 4. I've searched abroad, but people aren't willing to ship.

I'm willing to sell the ReBop as is, I think. It will just be a matter of getting a reasonable price. The 40J pickups alone set me back over $200. Given that a working ReBop 5DLX goes for around $6-800 on average (and stock), would I be wrong to expect $3-350 for the bass as is, with the 40J's?

Sidenote: It's been almost 4 months that my Spector's been out of commission.