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Spector Club - Part 12

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#621
Schaller strap locks are std on Euro N/T and US basses also. ( I believe they still are) If that tells you anything.

Dunlop makes strap locks also , they look like quality pieces. I havent had any experience with them except for removing them from a friends strap which he needed for another bass that didn't have them. I don't have faith in the design though, it looks to me as if they could fail easily.
 
#622
jarrhead said:
Never heard of an adjustable nut! Would like more info on that.


So, are you saying that the DiMarzio strap will not fit onto standard strap buttons, or just that they won't lock if I don't have a lock system?
Click to expand...

the dimarzio set up is it's own system which deletes the srtap buttons, and can only be used with the dimarzio kit. The 2 short ends stay permenently attached to the bass.
 
#625
loend68 said:
John "AJ" Yenser
Designs By Dickhead
174 W Lincoln Ave #142
Anaheim, Ca 92805
714-844-2600

[email protected]
Click to expand...

I second this. AJ made me a few brass and ebony nuts for the Spector 5 and 6 string I own and he does great work..... AND its for a good cause, charity.. Don't hesitate to contact him if you need any custom nuts made. He also will do other basses as well. You just need to give him the proper specs.
 
#626
grendle said:
Schaller strap locks are std on Euro N/T and US basses also. ( I believe they still are) If that tells you anything.

Dunlop makes strap locks also , they look like quality pieces. I havent had any experience with them except for removing them from a friends strap which he needed for another bass that didn't have them. I don't have faith in the design though, it looks to me as if they could fail easily.
Click to expand...

I've used Dunlops for YEARS (12-15 years) on all my basses. Never had a single failure, and I play a lot. To me, the Dunlops are much easier to operate, as well; just push the button in and pull the strap off.

The Schallers are nice, too, but I've seen scratches on the instrument from the sharp corners when the lock missed the button when latching it on. They are also a hassle to get on/off compared to the Dunlops.

I do have Schallers on my Euro, but I'd put my money on Dunlops if I was buying...
 
#627
JPSBassist said:
Actually the black and gold are the same size and fit both the neck-thru and bolt-on Euro models the same. So you can change out to gold from black or black from gold if you want (of course you'd have to change tuners too).

Like Chris said the black bridge is lighter than the gold, but because of the issues I've had rubbing the finish off the gold Euro Bridge I prefer the matte black hardware on a Euro.

I've had my NS-4 a year now... well next month... and that brass USA bridge shows no fading or wearing. So that's the difference between premium solid brass and brass-zinc alloy.
Click to expand...

Oooh! Sounds tempting to put gold on my Rebop. Hmmm.... what to do? lol :D
 
#628
grendle said:
Has anyone run Emg hz's with the hazlab clone? Did a search but didn't find anything. Will that work? I have the circuit comming in and was gonna a/b the tone pump and haz clone before the Emg 35p/j arrive .
Click to expand...

I haven't finished installing a set of passive P/J HZs on my NS-2A - but from what I've read, they work with the Haz clone - which is why I'm replacing the old 'Spector' branded PUPs.
 
#629
lowfreqgeek said:
I've used Dunlops for YEARS (12-15 years) on all my basses. Never had a single failure, and I play a lot. To me, the Dunlops are much easier to operate, as well; just push the button in and pull the strap off.

The Schallers are nice, too, but I've seen scratches on the instrument from the sharp corners when the lock missed the button when latching it on. They are also a hassle to get on/off compared to the Dunlops.

I do have Schallers on my Euro, but I'd put my money on Dunlops if I was buying...
Click to expand...

Good to hear, I was just throwing that out there hoping someone who had used them would chime in. They looked of good quality and felt sturdy and weren't flimsy at all (dunlop is known for a high quality product) . I guess i just have more visual confidence in the U type lock over the insert pin, but i have never heard of a failure.

I had only used the schallers and the dimarzio both of which worked great, no issues for me.
 
#630
peledog said:
I haven't finished installing a set of passive P/J HZs on my NS-2A - but from what I've read, they work with the Haz clone - which is why I'm replacing the old 'Spector' branded PUPs.
Click to expand...

I really loved my ns-2a's They were a great high quality bass. Both were modded with emg's and kept the pre. Sounded great to me, possibly a little too bright though. I would cut the highs and turn them up as the strings died lol. It worked pretty well. I miss my old basses :scowl: But ya gotta do what ya gotta do. There'll be more... :smug:

Has anyone posted clips of the haz clone? you cant search "haz" in the search fileld.
 
#633
peledog said:
I haven't finished installing a set of passive P/J HZs on my NS-2A - but from what I've read, they work with the Haz clone - which is why I'm replacing the old 'Spector' branded PUPs.
Click to expand...

I was going to get rid of the HZ's in my rebop, but I'm not so sure now. I 'm not sure how the emg's will sound in the alder body with a bolt on. I think i'm gonna wait before I take them out and see what the preamp sounds like. Still on the fence if I'm gonna sell this one when I'm done or keep it, or possibly trade. decisions decisions.....

She'll be a white rebop, with gold bridge, gold schallers, abm brass nut, and the haz clone, and some other nice touches you don't get with the rebop. I'm gassing for a blue burst NT NS5CRFM though.... we'll have to see....
 
#634
Callum_Carcass said:
Finally! But! How long was there between the USA bridges going from offset to front adjustment screws? I may hold off buying these if there's a possibility of a newer version coming out later on... and also to hear of other people's opinions on these new bridges.
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This ^^^^ +1000.
I was pretty sure this was going to be the case with these.
The change on the USA's was pretty quick. Even while the pic of the old version was still on the web page (which created some question of which you would receive if ordered).

I don't know the actual manufacturing process for the saddles, but I would think the screw holes are added after they are cast.
It shouldn't be a big deal to have them both drilled up front for the batches that are going to be modified with intonation screws.
They really should just tool up to do them all with the intonation screws from now on. Nobody in their right mind would not want the intonation screws if given the choice. The only reason not to is to avoid the effort/cost of the complete change over as the old bridge is clearly obsolete by the very existance of the new bridge. Some would argue the Spector bridge (like the old website :D) was obsolete and needed an upgrade for many years.

At this point, if I decide to change it on my Euros I won't be getting these. I'll dremel it a little for the USA version. No big deal as who'd ever want to change it back?

I'm still waiting for the 6 string in any version. :p
 
#635
grendle said:
Has anyone run Emg hz's with the hazlab clone? Did a search but didn't find anything. Will that work? I have the circuit comming in and was gonna a/b the tone pump and haz clone before the Emg 35p/j arrive .
Click to expand...
The original NS2A's had "Spector" or "EMG Selects" with the Haz clone they were using (not sure if yours is the same or has the same pot values). These pups were also passive and about the equivalent of todays EMG-Hz or EMG-SSD pups.

Active or passive, you should have no problems. I even put active EMG's in one of my old NS2A's and even without switching the pots had no issue. Pot's above 25ohms will "work" with actives, they just can get a little bright for some.
 
#636
PhatBasstard said:
The original NS2A's had "Spector" or "EMG Selects" with the Haz clone they were using (not sure if yours is the same or has the same pot values). These pups were also passive and about the equivalent of todays EMG-Hz or EMG-SSD pups.

Active or passive, you should have no problems. I even put active EMG's in one of my old NS2A's and even without switching the pots had no issue. Pot's above 25ohms will "work" with actives, they just can get a little bright for some.
Click to expand...

Yeah the emg's I put in my ns2a's were a straight drop in. Thanks for the info. Just watching the mail now LOL.
 
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