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Spector Club Part 6

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Man, I cannot stop grinning. Last weekend I dropped by my local Guitar Center to check out a bass I saw online. I walk to the area where they keep the basses, and there it was, a mint condition SSD NS 95. I pick the thing up and I am immediately impressed by the flawless workmanship. I also notice that it is in brand new condition! I plug it in to an Ampeg BA115 and was floored by the deep, rich tone and speed of the neck. Now people are stopping to listen and comment about how good it sounds. This thing had sub bass tones, I could not put it down. Now here's the best part, the price was $199.00, including a case. I will post some pics when I get a chance.:hyper:
 

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Man, I cannot stop grinning. Last weekend I dropped by my local Guitar Center to check out a bass I saw online. I walk to the area where they keep the basses, and there it was, a mint condition SSD NS 95. I pick the thing up and I am immediately impressed by the flawless workmanship. I also notice that it is in brand new condition! I plug it in to an Ampeg BA115 and was floored by the deep, rich tone and speed of the neck. Now people are stopping to listen and comment about how good it sounds. This thing had sub bass tones, I could not put it down. Now here's the best part, the price was $199.00, including a case. I will post some pics when I get a chance.:hyper:

Great job , man, for scooping that one up!!!!!!
 
Nice. Nope. That's the silliest thing to me. Buying a new bass that looks all worn-out. Like these kids here in LA buying $300 jeans with holes in them already.

Want jeans with holes... wear them 10 years.
Want a road worn bass, play it on the road for 20 years.

Everyone wants short cuts.
When will they come out with the bass that plays itself like they did with pianos?
 
Theres 3 NS 2000s ive been looking at the GC website for 2 weeks now. So tempted to pull the trigger on one or all of them.

But neither store has responded to me :/


Also, related to the cosmetics issues on the previous page, the NS 2000/5 I bought has a nice chip on the binding of the fretboard where the side marker is. Wasnt aware of it until I got it, whenever I play, my eyes go directly to it.

I know what you guys means with those little things bothering you.
 
Theres 3 NS 2000s ive been looking at the GC website for 2 weeks now. So tempted to pull the trigger on one or all of them.

But neither store has responded to me :/


Also, related to the cosmetics issues on the previous page, the NS 2000/5 I bought has a nice chip on the binding of the fretboard where the side marker is. Wasnt aware of it until I got it, whenever I play, my eyes go directly to it.

I know what you guys means with those little things bothering you.
If you are trying email the store, you probably won't get anywhere. I always call for a quick response. :)
 
If you are trying email the store, you probably won't get anywhere. I always call for a quick response. :)

My only hesitation to go through with anything is the border fees and all that. I always get surprised with a bill a couple of weeks after I get something shipped from the U.S.

One of the only downsides to living up here :(
 
My only hesitation to go through with anything is the border fees and all that. I always get surprised with a bill a couple of weeks after I get something shipped from the U.S.

One of the only downsides to living up here :(

I understand that. I did a bass trade with a gentleman from Calgary. The shipping was reasonable, but... He was stuck with $180.00 in border fees. Lame.
 
Here's a Haz I put in my Euro...... works well.

hazlabpre010.jpg

I'm going to go out on a limb here, but that preamp isn't what most people are referring to when the say a Hazlab preamp in a Spector. It might be made by HazLabs, but it's not the same. I think that is the 18V preamp that Spector uses in some of their US basses.

Here is a pic that JP posted a few pages back. This is the HazLab preamp that people associate with Spector basses.
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This is a current photo of the USA NS-2 control cavity with a Spector USA 9v Tone Circuit (often referred to as the HazLab circuit... HazLabs makes it for us).
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here, but that preamp isn't what most people are referring to when the say a Hazlab preamp in a Spector. It might be made by HazLabs, but it's not the same. I think that is the 18V preamp that Spector uses in some of their US basses.

Here is a pic that JP posted a few pages back. This is the HazLab preamp that people associate with Spector basses.
In general, I agree.
 
Theres 3 NS 2000s ive been looking at the GC website for 2 weeks now. So tempted to pull the trigger on one or all of them.

But neither store has responded to me :/


Also, related to the cosmetics issues on the previous page, the NS 2000/5 I bought has a nice chip on the binding of the fretboard where the side marker is. Wasnt aware of it until I got it, whenever I play, my eyes go directly to it.

I know what you guys means with those little things bothering you.

If you are handy, you can repair the chip yourself. take a look at the Stewmac website, they give tips on repairing chips, and will have what you need to do the job. The NS 2000 basses are solid instruments. I owned one, and that's what got me hooked on Spector.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here, but that preamp isn't what most people are referring to when the say a Hazlab preamp in a Spector. It might be made by HazLabs, but it's not the same. I think that is the 18V preamp that Spector uses in some of their US basses.

Here is a pic that JP posted a few pages back. This is the HazLab preamp that people associate with Spector basses.

If it tastes like chicken, it is. This is the 18V preamp that Spector uses in some of their US basses. If Haz makes it then wouldnt it be a Haz regardless where its used? :confused:
 
Super Edit:This post was originally a huge one about a wiring issue. Buuut I outwitted myself and fixed it so I have deleted the whole thing.

Super Update: Just finished a "Tonedump" on my Rebop :hyper:

Not only did I dump the TP but I also swapped the HZ's for DC's! Oh, and before anyone recommends it, I went 18v :D

Ran into an issue with which wires went to which tabs on the jack. I took photos of the TP before removal but I mixed up which wire went where when (holy alliteration) tying into the old jack. Anyway figured it out now and all is well.

What a difference in sound! The old "pulling the duvet off the amp" analogy definitely applies here. Holy Transparency! First thing I noticed (other than the clarity) was actually less bass freq output. With the TP (I had a pre trim pot model) when you boosted the bass it rattled plates in the kitchen. This is a much more gradual progression. The treble mid-point is more like having the treble near the top on the TP. All the adjustments seem much more usable. Plus I don't have to use the input pad on my amp anymore.

Big difference on the B string. With the TP it got muffled and boomy above F, now you can use it anywhere and the proper tone comes through.

The newfound clarity/DC's is gonna take some getting used to. It is not harsh whatsoever but I am finding it much clicky/zingier than the old setup (and that's with the tweeter off!). Mind you I'm still fiddling with the controls. The TP in comparison seemed to be very low/low mid oriented. The new tone is still nice and aggressive with much more variety (thanks captain obvious) and waaay more clarity. I was actually cutting the freq's to get more vintage tones out. Very sweet.

Does anybody have any recommendations for where to set the knee frequencies on the pre to take some of the "click" out? I will go and try a few.

WOOO! :hyper:
 
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