Spector Club Part 6

[svtb15]

Hi folks.
Does anyone have a inside control cavity photo of a Spector NS2, I just received an NS2 in parts and need to see the way the wires are hooked up...

Thank You in advance..

 

[PhatBasstard]

Hi folks.
Does anyone have a inside control cavity photo of a Spector NS2, I just received an NS2 in parts and need to see the way the wires are hooked up...

Thank You in advance..

Unfortunately, it would depend on what preamp you have.
There are a few current options and several from down through the years.

Anything EMG or Aguilar is available on their sites.
The Tone Pump is on the Spector site.
Haz-Lab???

 

[.:Aidan:.]

May I please join.

 

[edfriedland]

Yeah, I did say that, and it is true...but I personally would only want a reverse P if I were doing a PJ, I'm perfectly happy with the standard arrangement if it's a straight P bass.

What I notice, what I observe to be true, and what I personally want to play are not always the same thing.

To answer your question, I periodically do a name search on the forum just to make sure I'm not leaving anyone's questions unanswered.

Actually, I agree with the general point you made (regardless of the J) in that the P reversed creates a little bit more beef with the D and G and makes the E and A (expand all this to low B and high C as fit) a little more articulate.

I would want my upper octave G to have as close to the same weight/heft possible as to my low G. I would also like my low G as distinct as possible in relation to my upper G. Positioning the P in reverse brings me much closer to achieving this. The traditional mount moves unneccessarily away from this ideal, making the bass strings muddier and the high strings thinner. I've owned many basses with the traditional P, and this was always an audible issue for me. The reverse P was the solution.

I just feel, for the general reasons you stated in the review (and others in other reviews), that the reverse configuration is the most sensible if you are going to have a staggered coil pickup.

"The reverse P pickup soloed has the defining bark of a classic Precision tone, but with it's own flavor. The G and D strings definitely benefit from the extra girth, and the E and A speak a little faster and clearer than on a traditional Precision."
Exactly.



BTW, do you get an email notification everytime your name pops up in a thread?

 

[JPSBassist]

Hi folks.
Does anyone have a inside control cavity photo of a Spector NS2, I just received an NS2 in parts and need to see the way the wires are hooked up...

Thank You in advance..

Hi there,

The NS-2 model would have a circuit board with the pots built into it, one that pretty much covers the entire control cavity.

So I guess the first thing would be sure you have an NS-2. There is a lot of confusion regarding Spector models. And a Euro4LX for all extents and purposes looks just like an NS-2... to those not really familiar with Spector models.

If you have individual pots and wires connecting them with a circuit chip (EMG BT) or if you have an Aguilar OBP box or a black box with no markings or one that says Tone-Pump. Then we can help you with what you are looking for.

Another thing, any NS-2 made in the past 20 years will have copper shielding all in the control cavity. Our Euro Models do not.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
This is a current photo of the USA NS-2 control cavity with a Spector USA 9v Tone Circuit (often referred to as the HazLab circuit... HazLabs makes it for us).

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
This is a current photo of a Euro Series Euro4LX control cavity with the standard 9v Spector TonePump.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
This is a photo of a 22 year-old Kramer Era NS-2A which has had the original tone circuit removed and has been changed for the TonePump.

-----------------------------------

We have wiring diagrams for all of the stock/factory tone circuits currently installed (note that the NS-2 has had the same tone circuit config since 1979).

So if you can provide me with a little more info about your guitar, we can pinpoint exactly what you need.

Look for the serial number. On the back of the headstock or in the control cavity. If it is a USA model made since 1992, the serial will be hand-written on the back of the headstock with the date and "Woodstock, NY".

If it reads "Made under license in the Czech Republic" or "People's Republic of Korea", send me the serial number and we'll try to track down which model.

You can also post photos here. That helps a lot too.

 

[JPSBassist]

May I please join.

Absolutely. Great lookin bass you've got there.

 

[Aragorn35016]

How what turns out? The swap from DC's to the 40P/40J....I can already tell you how it turns out...it kicks ass...I have had this combo before in a Rebop 5 that I sold...and regret selling

Sorry shouldnt post with a screaming toddler in the background, guess I was wanting to make sure that there was really no difference in the 40P and J than the regular reverse P and J pickups. Really though I guess I have no intention of changing my DC and TW out, They are different than what Im used to, but I really like them!. I would eventually like to hear a sound clip of the the 40 P/J pickups so I could do a little compare and contrast of my own.

 

[bobunit]

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
This is a current photo of the USA NS-2 control cavity with a Spector USA 9v Tone Circuit (often referred to as the HazLab circuit... HazLabs makes it for us).

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
This is a current photo of a Euro Series Euro4LX control cavity with the standard 9v Spector TonePump.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
This is a photo of a 22 year-old Kramer Era NS-2A which has had the original tone circuit removed and has been changed for the TonePump.

Curiosity question. I noticed that the Kramer Spector has threaded inserts for the control cavity cover whereas the Euro and US models do not. Given that the battery placement is in the control cavity (Euro), wouldn't it make sense to use threaded inserts?

 

[JPSBassist]

Curiosity question. I noticed that the Kramer Spector has threaded inserts for the control cavity cover whereas the Euro and US models do not. Given that the battery placement is in the control cavity (Euro), wouldn't it make sense to use threaded inserts?

Actually the USA NS-2 has brass threaded insterts for the screws as well, but they are counter-sunk into the screw holes and a little harder to see.

I guess it depends on the hardness of the wood. And seeing that the back of the Euro is Alder, perhaps that's hard enough to not worry about stripping one out.

I know that the NS-2 and NS-2A's solid maple wings are softer. So this is probably the reason. So far, every solid-wing USA model I've opened up, has had brass threaded insterts for the control cavity cover screws to instert into. Even the Forte models do this as well as the Bolt-Ons.
The only exceptions are my NS-4 and the NS-5XL because their control cavity covers are counter sunk and flush with the body of the guitar (would be my reasoning) and therefore unlike the "above the surface" covers on the other models.

 

[svtb15]

Thank you very much.. That photo is of great help.The one with the full PC board showing the Leads locations. Im guessing its HAZ-Labs.. I love the internet at times and this is one of them..

Thank you for your help.

Curiosity question. I noticed that the Kramer Spector has threaded inserts for the control cavity cover whereas the Euro and US models do not. Given that the battery placement is in the control cavity (Euro), wouldn't it make sense to use threaded inserts?

 

[PhatBasstard]

Actually the USA NS-2 has brass threaded insterts for the screws as well, but they are counter-sunk into the screw holes and a little harder to see.

I guess it depends on the hardness of the wood. And seeing that the back of the Euro is Alder, perhaps that's hard enough to not worry about stripping one out.

I know that the NS-2 and NS-2A's solid maple wings are softer. So this is probably the reason. So far, every solid-wing USA model I've opened up, has had brass threaded insterts for the control cavity cover screws to instert into. Even the Forte models do this as well as the Bolt-Ons.
The only exceptions are my NS-4 and the NS-5XL because their control cavity covers are counter sunk and flush with the body of the guitar (would be my reasoning) and therefore unlike the "above the surface" covers on the other models.

FWIW, as I've always found this funny: the "cheapo" Legends (or, at least mine) not only have the threaded brass inserts, but the control cavity cover is also counter sunk so its flush!
Even my old USA doesn't get that kind of treatment.

 

[crimson_basser]

FWIW, as I've always found this funny: the "cheapo" Legends (or, at least mine) not only have the threaded brass inserts, but the control cavity cover is also counter sunk so its flush!
Even my old USA doesn't get that kind of treatment.

Same here, my two Legends (well I sold one of them) are countersunk as well as my NS 2000/5.

My Euro 5LX is not.

 

[jonnymac]

FWIW, as I've always found this funny: the "cheapo" Legends (or, at least mine) not only have the threaded brass inserts, but the control cavity cover is also counter sunk so its flush!
Even my old USA doesn't get that kind of treatment.

I wish my Euro5LX would have the recessed cover. I bought it new back in January and there are finish cracks that propagated from the cover holes. Its really odd I've had the cover off once and didn't overtighten the screws or anything like that. It kinda bums me out that it happened but I guess its just one of those things I have to deal with. It just sucks that it happened through no fault of my own.

 

[loend68]

Actually the USA NS-2 has brass threaded insterts for the screws as well, but they are counter-sunk into the screw holes and a little harder to see.

I guess it depends on the hardness of the wood. And seeing that the back of the Euro is Alder, perhaps that's hard enough to not worry about stripping one out.

I know that the NS-2 and NS-2A's solid maple wings are softer. So this is probably the reason. So far, every solid-wing USA model I've opened up, has had brass threaded insterts for the control cavity cover screws to instert into. Even the Forte models do this as well as the Bolt-Ons.
The only exceptions are my NS-4 and the NS-5XL because their control cavity covers are counter sunk and flush with the body of the guitar (would be my reasoning) and therefore unlike the "above the surface" covers on the other models.

Funny...my '97 US NS-2 doesn't have the threaded inserts. I always wondered why because my old Kramer NS-2 had them. I think my '97 may have been one of those transitional ones because it has a Spector logo and says Woodstock, not SSD and the model history says they ran the SSD throught '98.
Interesting.

 

[CH Design]

I wish my Euro5LX would have the recessed cover. I bought it new back in January and there are finish cracks that propagated from the cover holes. Its really odd I've had the cover off once and didn't overtighten the screws or anything like that. It kinda bums me out that it happened but I guess its just one of those things I have to deal with. It just sucks that it happened through no fault of my own.

Sounds like that should be a warranty issue to me. If you bought it new from a dealer they should fix it.

 

[jonnymac]

Sounds like that should be a warranty issue to me. If you bought it new from a dealer they should fix it.

I wasn't sure if it would be covered or not since its a finish thing. I guess I'll have to look into it. I did purchase it through a dealer and I did register it online when I bought it so we'll see what happens.

 

[JPSBassist]

I wasn't sure if it would be covered or not since its a finish thing. I guess I'll have to look into it. I did purchase it through a dealer and I did register it online when I bought it so we'll see what happens.

If you can... take some clear/focused photos of the damage. And send it to [email protected]
Euro Basses come with the same limited lifetime warranty as the USA models. And this is protection for you against manufacturer defects. Since it is a finish issue, it may not be covered. Mainly the warranty is to ensure things like bad necks, construction (like a wing falling off) or a bad fret job, etc... stuff that shouldn't be a problem with a professional-level instrument.

Finish irregularities happen and I know Stuart and PJ have done things to work with customers with finish problems in the past.

Cracks in the clearcoat don't happen often in my experience. Usually it takes some sort of force or rapid temperature change, like from room temp to below freezing in a matter of seconds (like walking outside in the dead of winter with your bass... people have done it, just saying).

I was monkeying with the string height of the strings on my USA NS-4 two days ago and my wife was sitting in an office chair next to me, I had the bass in my lap and she turned to ask me something. The arm of her chair whacked the headstock... and yup. There is a chip in the clearcoat now. It was my fault so I wasn't upset. That sort of stuff happens. Doug Wimbish's original model, the one we make our Wimbish Signature Models from, looks like it's been in a war zone. That headstock is chipped, dinged, pitted and even peeling. But Doug plays that bass in every performance he does.

If you didn't overtighten or do anything like that, I'm not sure what the policy is, which is why I suggest you contact Customer Service first.

But basses are made to be played and they will get scratched, bumped, chipped, etc... over time. It just happens. Wait until you are changing strings and slip and the sharp end of one of your strings digs into your headstock. No amount of polish will remove a scrach like that. I hope it doesn't happen. But I have a little scratch on my NS-2JA-R's headstock.

And at BPL two weeks ago someone was playing my new Euro4LX-TW-35 and forgot to swing their badge behind their neck (we ask that you do that because the metal clip on show badges will scratch the poo out of a new bass), and it has a nice gouge.

I'm not telling you this stuff to discourage you, but to let you know I understand how you feel. I'm a recovering type-A whose had to learn to not let little things like the stuff mentioned about eat at me.

If you are really bothered by these cracks, please contact our Customer Service and let's see what can be done.

Let me know how it goes.

 

[jonnymac]

But basses are made to be played and they will get scratched, bumped, chipped, etc... over time. It just happens. Wait until you are changing strings and slip and the sharp end of one of your strings digs into your headstock. No amount of polish will remove a scrach like that. I hope it doesn't happen. But I have a little scratch on my NS-2JA-R's headstock.

And at BPL two weeks ago someone was playing my new Euro4LX-TW-35 and forgot to swing their badge behind their neck (we ask that you do that because the metal clip on show badges will scratch the poo out of a new bass), and it has a nice gouge.

I'm not telling you this stuff to discourage you, but to let you know I understand how you feel. I'm a recovering type-A whose had to learn to not let little things like the stuff mentioned about eat at me.

If you are really bothered by these cracks, please contact our Customer Service and let's see what can be done.

Let me know how it goes.

I completely understand the basses meant to be played thing. It doesn't bother me a ton but every time I pick up the bass my eyes are drawn to that spot. Its on the back. No one can see it but I know its there. I guess my biggest concern is that the cracks will spread.

In the past something like this would have driven me insane. The first Spector I owned was an NS2000/4 I bought brand new during my sophomore year of college. I had it about 2 months before I bumped the George Foreman grill that was sitting on top of our mini fridge and knocked it down putting a nice ding in the underbelly of the bass (nice instruments in dorm rooms are always a bad idea.) I ended up selling it because it drove me crazy knowing that I did that to the bass.

Since then I've been buying mostly used stuff that already has a ding or two and if I add my own mark it really doesn't bother me. The Euro5LX was the first new bass I had purchased in a while. I'll look into the CS thing but if nothing comes of it its not that big of a deal. Maybe I'm over my damaged bass neurosis.

 

[JPSBassist]

In the past something like this would have driven me insane. The first Spector I owned was an NS2000/4 I bought brand new during my sophomore year of college. I had it about 2 months before I bumped the George Foreman grill that was sitting on top of our mini fridge and knocked it down putting a nice ding in the underbelly of the bass (nice instruments in dorm rooms are always a bad idea.) I ended up selling it because it drove me crazy knowing that I did that to the bass.

Since then I've been buying mostly used stuff that already has a ding or two and if I add my own mark it really doesn't bother me. The Euro5LX was the first new bass I had purchased in a while. I'll look into the CS thing but if nothing comes of it its not that big of a deal. Maybe I'm over my damaged bass neurosis.

Yeah... same here. For me, I figure I'm gonna bump the headstock once or slip putting a string on, or as what happened this week with the NS-4. Until then it's not really "broken in". Once this is out of the way I can move forward and not be so uptight that I have a brand new/perfect bass that I need to worry about.

I totally understand. Like when I dropped my Euro4LX... OK... I didn't drop it but the stand I had it on wasn't setup properly (stupid me for not checking) and I put it in the stand and it literally fell over. Bang. Landed flat on it's back. No damage, no marks. But it freaked me out some.

PLEASE do check with our customer service. That's what they are there for. And you won't get the run around. PJ and Stuart make the decisions. They see the emails. So if anything can be done, it will.

Try to take a picture of it for me. I'm curious to see what it looks like.

 

[PhatBasstard]

What?!?
No Spector "Road Worn" series?!?!?!