Thanks, that's helpful! My gut looking at it was it'd feel larger, but good to get people's opinions.
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Squier Affinity Jaguar Bass...H?!
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Thanks, that's helpful! My gut looking at it was it'd feel larger, but good to get people's opinions.
I personally stuck with the 500K and went with full size Bourns pots because I am constantly riding the vol and tone knobs and hate having any resistance. I also started out with a .022 tone cap and found that while I liked the mid-focused sound I got when the tone control was turned all the way down, I needed more highs taken out for when I just need the thing to lay down an unobtrusive groove in the mix. So I put in a vintage .05 ceramic disc cap from my parts stash and that was the sound that worked for me.
An update on the tuner situation: I have 1/2" ultra lites, and the the stock bushings do not fit the 23/32" (18mm) tuner hole in the headstock, so I had to oder adapter bushings directly from Hipshot. They're $28 shipped for a set of 4.
I also sheared off one of the tuner screws in the back of the headstock (despite drilling a pilot hole and not using excessive force when screwing it in), so I had to drill tiny holes around it, fish it out, and now I need to glue a dowel in the hole I made. That was an extremely annoying, irreversible process that all but decimated what little resale value these will have going forward, so this is going to always just be a beater and a money pit--not that it already was. Ha.
Half a pound can make a HUGE difference when it's coming off the headstock. I think you'll notice a nice improvement
I don't doubt that, but the difference here is well under a half pound total. I think this weight savings counteracted by a slightly heavier bridge might balance out to a half pound difference, but we'll see.
Does anyone know if the Fender hi-mass bridge without the "Fender" stamped into it is any different than the one that does have the "fender" stamp? I'm reading a bunch of complaints about the saddle size on the non-stamped one.
The full size pots didn’t pose any problems putting the harness back into its cavity? Thanks for the advise, I’ll probably go with the same values then, 500K and 0.022uF.
Yeah, I’m sorry about your misadventures with the tuning heads. I totally gave up on the idea yesterday, seeing as mine functions well and keeps in tune; and my bass doesn’t have neck dive. Thanks for the measurements though, will surely help at least a couple people on here.
I’m not entirely sure what you’re referring to here, but those Fender Hi-Mass bridges are the exact same as the Kluson Hi-Mass. I have one of those bridges on my Squier Paranormal Jazz Bass and it does the job pretty well. No complaints.
Let me clarify, seeing as I phrased that very badly! Just jotted it during a dull work meeting.
With some short scale basses (like the Stingray), the bass itself feels small - the reach to the first fret is very minor; however on some of the same scale length, like the Fallout, there's complaints it doesn't feel like playing a shortie - the bridge being quite far forward pushes the nut further away, so a bigger reach to the first fret, and makes the bass hang differently.
Looking at the Jaguar, the bridge is quite far back but not butted right to the bottom of the body. On the other hand, it's quite a large body in comparison to a Ray or a Mustang, so perhaps that counters the bridge location. So as a purely subjective question, does it feel like & hang like a small short scale, or does it 'feel' more like a long scale bass with reach etc despite being 32"?
I'm looking forward to my local shop starting to get these new models in, so I can spend 30 seconds finding out for myself, instead of asking silly questions like this
I follow you...I have many short scale and now medium scale basses. A traditional or modern P/J Mustang 'feels' small, as does the Squire Jaguar 30".
I have a Fender Pawnshop Jaguar 32", that feels more like a full scale bass because of the reverse layout, forward bridge and the P Bass width neck...and it hangs weird, adding to the shift. I actually moved the back strap button as close the arm relief as I could, and that helped it a bit. The current Jaguar Classic Vibe feels "medium" because of the full bass body and the Jazz width (and 32" length of course). The Affinity's body is actually smaller (same as the Squier Jag 30") and also has the Jazz width, so when stock, "feels" a bit smaller to me. I actually put the Fender Pawnshop Jaguar P neck on the Affinity and love it.
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Both genuine fender, both same bridge, but saddles are different and only one has the "Fender" stamp.
NEW Genuine Fender Hi-Mass Bass Bridge - CHROME, 008-1460-049 885978928620 | eBay
NEW Fender Badass Style Hi-Mass Bass Bridge, Zinc Saddles CHROME 099-4407-000 885978632909 | eBay
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I went with the Fender Hi-Mass instead of Hipshot Kickass and also went brass saddles not zinc. Couldn't find the difference in weights, hopefully (?) the Fender is heavier than the Hipshot but the difference is probably negligible. I've dropped a bunch of Hipshots into 5 bolt Fenders, easy peasy. Were I to change the tuners I'd have done everything in black but that would have mandated the Hipshot as the Fender doesn't come in the color variants that the Kickass does.
In a previous post I detailed taking a dremel and sanding drum to the cavity to make room for full size pots.
Half pound between bridge side Vs headstock are notable difference.
I suggest tuner swap for better results.
I’ve honestly not encountered the first one. Best to go with the second one I think.
On my Jaguar H, I’m actually pretty impressed with the stock bridge. My favorite detail is that the A and D saddles have longer screws while the E and G have shorter screws. Great attention to detail for an instrument this inexpensive, if you ask me.
My bad, I forgot about that.
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Suggest fender badass Himass bridge (single tiny string slot) or Omaga Himass bridge ( 3 string slot on each saddle which adjustable string spacing ), both plate has longer length from plate mounting screw holes till string ball end holder which around 1/2 inch extent .
Work better on 34in standard length E string which has less wrap on tuning post.
Example.
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Same here. It's gotta be charcoal grey metallic. I gotta put black lightweight tuners on it and a heavy black bridge, so it can remind me of my long-lost 20th Anniversary Affinity Series P-Bass, and it's gotta have a pickup that is too expensive for the bass. I don't know which MM-size pickups would sound good with a passive setup in the P position, but I intend to find out.
I think 32" scale would be a sweet spot for me. I just sold my Jazz, and my Mustang is starting to feel a little cramped, while my P-Bass is kinda giant.
I've not even played one of these yet, and I spend my time daydreaming of buying a LPB & a black Classic Vibe, and doing a neck swap; black/black/maple with PJ pups, and lake placid blue with a laurel blocked fretboard. Big chunk of change on an aesthetic whim, especially seeing as I'm perfectly happy with my #1.
GAS is a disease.
GAS is a disease.
High 7’s.
If you can, personally try one at a store like I did. Mine has negligible neck dive but I know that is the no.1 complaint from this bass.
I went and tried one out, and didn't leave with it. I'm of two minds. The neck was a really good size for me. I'd have preferred a little deeper, but didn't expect it, and I liked it a lot the way it was. Construction was really clean like everyone says. I even liked the sound a lot. All the dense mids started to make me think that maybe highs were overrated, although I'm pretty sure I'd eventually feel compelled to get a more flexible pickup.
But this one was REALLY neck heavy. It dove straight for the floor! I'm currently trying to cure neck-heaviness in my P-Bass (which at least has the excuse of being very light). Maybe if I succeed at that, I'll get one of these, and hopefully it won't be such an extreme example.
But this one was REALLY neck heavy. It dove straight for the floor! I'm currently trying to cure neck-heaviness in my P-Bass (which at least has the excuse of being very light). Maybe if I succeed at that, I'll get one of these, and hopefully it won't be such an extreme example.
By the way, did you measure using inches or millimeter for the tuner holes? 23/32” is closer to 18.25mm is why I’m asking.
My digital calipers measure at such a high resolution that I was getting weird numbers, so I set them exactly at 23/32 and held them up to the hole and determined it to be so close that I’m not sure how or why a different size would be offered, so I ordered the ones previously mentioned.
