yeah, my player series P Bass is absolutely stellar. Just as good as my American Pro P Bass.
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Squier Classic Vibe 2019
- Thread starter LkS
- Start date
yeah, my player series P Bass is absolutely stellar. Just as good as my American Pro P Bass.
After I bought the VM70’s J, the companion VM60’s J showed up at my local Ma & Pa.
I rented it a few times but once again, I couldn’t stand the tuners so I took a pass.
I should’ve used the issue to negotiate a better price but for whatever reason I didn’t try. Sure wish I did now because it did play really nice and the neck was once again really good too. Hardware was good other than the tuners. Pickups weren’t the Duncan Designed ones of the 70’s J but were still ok if not wonderful. Between the two, I preferred the DD’s.
Maybe no rolled edges but I agreed that imo the Players are the nicest MIM’s to date (for lefties anyways). Not that I’d turn down one of the old Mexican Standards for the right price either but I do believe that Fender stepped up their game a bit with the Players Series. I like the neck and Pao Ferro board that’s on top of it. It goes really well with the (now discontinued) Sonic Red body. Frets are very good.
Hopefully I’ll play it enough to roll the edges that way. Can’t see why not. I’m really pleased with mine.
Well done! That’s a great job!
How does it sound?
I feel like the Players Series wood quality, manufacturing and quality control is awfully close to the USA Fenders, they really did dial them in with these.
I think the Player Series materials, fret work and finish, are as good as many great basses, except for those edgey fretboards they could have so easily rounded a bit.
I've got six USA Peaveys, a USA 1985 Guild Pilot, a 2004 EBMM USA SUB Bass, a made in Taiwan 1990 Yamaha Attitude Custom, and the Squier CV 50's.
All of those necks just feel better than the Player Series Jazz neck so I sold it after few months.
I took a USA made 1992 Peavey Fury and replaced the stock split P pickup with a good T-Bird pickup.
Here is the Fury with the stock split P pickup
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Here is the Fury with the stock split P pickup
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I think it sounds like an old Thunderbird, but I have not heard a Thunderbird live for many years, especially an old one.Nice!
How does it sound?
What it no longer sounds like is another split-P pickup bass, of which I have too many.
I've had three split-P Peavey Fury basses for a couple years now, plus a Guild Pilot split-P bass, plus a Yamaha Attitude with a split P in it.
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What I find interesting is that 60s era Thunderbird pickup locations pretty much line up with the 60s Jazz bass spacing!
Check this 64 out at 27 3/4" and 31 1/4"... A 60s J would have pickups centered at 27 3/4" and 31 5/16". I know that Gibson pushed the pickups slightly neckward in the 70s and again around 87. Not much, like a 1/4" or so.
That's been my thing, too. Having variations on the 'tried and true.' A pickup swap helps define a different timbre in the sweet spots. I get the split coil P thing, but TBH, I prefer pickups with a wider bandwidth. The split coil is really about the low mid hump and attenuated high end from the series connection.
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I put the T-Bird pickup where the split P was because I had to place it where there was already a hole in the pickguard and in the bass body.
We all know the Fender Precision pickup location is a good spot, this T-Bird pickup ended up centered at 28 5/8" from the nut, which I think is the distance from the nut that the standard Fender Precision pickup is placed.
Also knew that going from a Fender type split-P pickup to a T-Bird humbucker replica pickup is not a bad way to go!
Darn right!
Many J variants have the neck pickup located closer to the P spot. It's a great location. The Peavey Foundations/Dynas are at 28" (& 32"), G&L El Toro is at 28.5" (& 31.5").
Anybody having a Classic Vibe 70s Precision Bass either in walnut or black finishes (only Gen 2 ones!) can give me their width at nut? Spec sheet says 43mm. I found 40mm. Xhat the f***
Mines from 2020, nut looks to be 40mm, maybe 41? Depending on if measuring from top of strings or where nut sits on neck flat.
In case others are interested, I've been searching for replacement tuners. Couldn't find anything on exact drop ins. So I took a gamble and went with a set from stew Mac. They're cheaper than Hipshot or gotoh, no real weight savings that I could tell (no scales). But quality seems to better. Solid base plate, and turning the keys don't grind like my previous A string did.
As far as fitment on my Indonesian 70s P, 2 holes lined up pretty dead on. But I could move tuner and get all 4 screws in, just a little angled. So instead of drilling new holes, I just did that and slowly pulled the tuner base to headstock going back and forth around the screws. Definitely not the pro way to do it, but it works for me
As far as fitment on my Indonesian 70s P, 2 holes lined up pretty dead on. But I could move tuner and get all 4 screws in, just a little angled. So instead of drilling new holes, I just did that and slowly pulled the tuner base to headstock going back and forth around the screws. Definitely not the pro way to do it, but it works for me
So did anybody look out for the 2 new models : LATE 50S Precision Basses in White Blonde and 2-ton Sunburst?? Did anybody got one? 
So did anybody look out for the 2 new models : LATE 50S Precision Basses in White Blonde and 2-ton Sunburst?? Did anybody got one?
So I got one and made a NBD thread a while ago... didn't get too much answers. I wouldn't recommand to get these, most people are complaining in comments (on purchase websites) with the fact that the frets aren't leveled correctly, and this is my case too. The bass is unplayable if you want a low action with heavy flats. Some notes can't even be played.
I don't have a nice tool to measure but it's higher than my fingers with Chromes can easily play...
My 'problem' with the Chromes is the gauges are not very balanced tension. The G&D are stiff, the E&A looser, on both the 45-100 and 50-105 sets. You can get high tension strings nice and low, but lower tension strings need a little extra action to not buzz out. This is usually not an issue, since I tend to have my E & A set a touch higher, anyway.
Since flatwounds last years and years and years, I committed to a hybrid set of Chromes for my P bass. I had to buy two sets: the 45-100 and 50-105. I took the 45 and 65 from one set and the 85 and 105 from another set. It's a much better feel. I wish D'addario offered this set as a stock item. It's perfect. I helped offset the cost by selling off the leftover 50 70 80 100 as singles. I keep my previous set of beat up Chromes in the case as the back ups to this new set. I have never broken a flat at a gig, but if I do, I want to replace it with another worn in string, not a new, bright one.
Ernie Ball Cobalt flats come in the 45-105 set. I like them and use that set on another bass. They are much brighter out of the pack, take longer to break in/get thumpy and don't feel quite as smooth as Chromes.
