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Squier Classic Vibe Club (Part 3)

So would the number on the sticker be the new SN?
Correct sir. Usually a serial number is printed on a tan/brownish strip of tape like a printed label maker would make. It could have had a nut slot cut wrong or a gooched up truss rod nut or something minor and it was refurbished. In manufacturing it's what is called "ETN" or "equivalent to new" as it is illegal to sell reworked/refurbished field returns (warranty) items as new. Thats all that happened, should be good as new. Fender defaced the original serial, Gibson stamps used below serial number.
 
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Correct sir. Usually a serial number is printed on a tan/brownish strip of tape like a printed label maker would make. It could have had a nut slot cut wrong or a gooched up truss rod nut or something minor and it was refurbished. In manufacturing it's what is called "ETN" or "equivalent to new" as it is illegal to sell reworked/refurbished field returns (warranty) items as new. Thats all that happened, should be good as new. Fender defaced the original serial, Gibson stamps used below serial number.
Thanks for all the info!

It looks and plays as brand new. It did have a rattle on the tuner, I am wondering if that was a carry over part. Easily fixed, bass plays awesome.
 
Opinion sharing ~ From Chrome to 760FL

My CV 60P with Chrome 45-100 around 1 & half years. It broke-in and sound become mellow & thumpy, but D string still little zingy , bright & tiny ,then the E string little muddy-boomy compare to A & D string. When in mix, it work fine & nice.

Change to 760FL, first i found it little more tension than Chrome. After adjust the neck dive, play a while, can fell the 760FL less stiff than Chrome.
The fresh 760FL sound little open than aged Chorme, but all string sound balance & even. E string sound less huge & big than chrome, and G string sound round & full.

Another mention is , Fresh 760 FL less output than aged chrome, i need set the volume at 12'o clock to matching chorme at 11' o clock.
 
I'm in.

CVJ with maple fretboard taken from VM. loving how it looks now
 

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Just picked up a lovely Matt Freeman sig. I bought it as a backup and as my main axe for another project that tunes down a half step. I have to say, I'm a little amazed at how good this particular bass is. I wanted it in white but everywhere was out of stock so I went and ordered the black and I'm very glad I did because I got one of those rare gems that is pretty darn near perfect.

Firstly, the fret work is impeccable. No high frets and they have all been crowned and polished wonderfully. I can get the relief exactly where I want it, which is LOW by most peoples standards. Zero fret sprout as well. I can run my hand up the entire length of the neck and not feel the fret ends. The neck pocket is tight and keeps the alignment perfectly-there was no need to take it off and re-seat it. The finish is flawless, but hey, it's black.

The nut is cut perfectly and isn't too high or low. The bridge is solid and serves its purpose, so it stays. I don't much care for the brass saddles aesthetically, but they're growing on me. One thing I've noticed on the CV's is that Squier uses a cheap, soft metal nut on the truss rod that can be easily stripped if great care isn't taken when making adjustments with the provided wrench. This is one area where they definitely should not have skimped. My first CV was a James Johnston sig that had to go back to MF because the nut was practically already stripped when I got it. The replacement bass was fine (aside from weighing a million pounds and sounding like a wet fart), but it left me a little wary of CV's as a stripped nut on these pretty much makes it firewood if you want to maintain the clean aesthetic of the headstock. The walnut plug is a classy touch and is one of the things that drew me to these...I never cared for the black pvc tubing that housed the MIM and VM truss rod nuts, which strangely enough both use better quality metal for the nut itself. The truss rod nut on my Matt Freeman is fine and turns perfectly in both directions.

Buying ANY Fender sight unseen, from a Squier Affinity to an American Reissue, stands a chance of being a "built on a Monday" bass or being a "Bill here from the custom shop is going to show you how he does it" bass. I think Bill may have worked on mine, or these Matt Freeman's really are THAT GOOD:)

The weight? About 8lbs...exactly the weight of my American Standard and very comfortable. The tuners all function great, with no "sticking" or slack and they do a fine job of keeping it in tune so far, so they're staying for now. The only weak point for me was the pickups, which I thought sounded pretty good at home but as another poster commented, not so much in a band setting. They're very punchy but there was a "looseness" to the tone that I wasn't really digging...not much focus in the low mids and the high mids were a little attenuated. They are decent enough and I was surprised that their construction was actually better than the MIM and pre 2012 US Precision pickups in that they weren't wound on a plastic slug, but actually used real flatwork .

I first swapped out the stock .068uf capacitor and threw in a .047uf, but predictably it didn't really help to add focus with to tone rolled back. I put in some Duncan SPB-1 "vintage" pickups, which are alnico V wound to 11k. I wasn't expecting a dramatic change, but holy crap what a difference! Totally took this bass to the next level for me. When I had her on the operating table, I decided to also install some CTS EP885 250k pots, Switchcraft jack and a 716p .047uf capacitor. I was a little worried they wouldn't fit in the smaller than standard cavity. but they dropped right in. Oddly, Squier used two different types of pots. The volume was linear taper for some reason and was also a different brand from the standard log Alpha that was the tone pot.

Finally, I installed some regular flat top barrel knobs as I prefer the look over the dome type on a Precision bass. I also kept the stock strings, which is a first for me. I usually use nickel DR Lo Riders when I use rounds and tried a set of those and the SS version. This bass seemed to set up and sound better with the stock "Fendadarrio" 45-105's. That's a plus for me because I have a crap load of them laying around from taking them off every other Fender I've ever bought new. It will also receive some Dunlop strap locks. Here she is:
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This is my Squier Classic Vibe Precision 50's Bass, White Blonde edition, with the white pickguard removed. I've only know them in blue and yellow editions. I really like the color but prefered it more if it were solid instead of see-through. I've put flatwounds on and when played with a pick it sounds amazing. Must try it out with a foam mute soon. The bass to me feels pretty light on the shoulder and well balanced with a strap so all in all it's pretty comfortable, despite the wide neck around the 12th fret which feels pretty large for me.

The stock pickup sounds fine but there are so many upgrades available... if only I'd knew if they were truly an upgrade.
 
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This is my Squier Classic Vibe Precision 50's Bass, White Blonde edition, with the white pickguard removed. I've only know them in blue and yellow editions. I really like the color but prefered it more if it were solid instead of see-through. I've put flatwounds on and when played with a pick it sounds amazing. Must try it out with a foam mute soon. The bass to me feels pretty light on the shoulder and well balanced with a strap so all in all it's pretty comfortable, despite the wide neck around the 12th fret which feels pretty large for me.

The stock pickup sounds fine but there are so many upgrades available... if only I'd knew if they were truly an upgrade.
Agreed, these stock pickups are pretty decent
 
Now i believe & prove the Vintage Bridge make my CV 60 P bring the Sound better than Stock highmass bridge.
overall sound become Thicker and woody, E string sound more in focus, and solve the "Boomy" tone at fret 9th till fret 16th area.

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