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Squier "Perfect Fit Replacement Parts" Mega thread

I find that taking a tuner apart, cleaning the moving parts and oiling the parts that rub together, then reassembling, helps quite a bit. Sometimes even just taking a tuner apart and putting it back together does the trick.

This happened with me once. I got a brand new MIM Fender and one of the tuners was a bit wonky. I took it apart, examined it, saw nothing obviously wrong, reassembled it and suddenly it was working just fine. Go fig! o_O

That did the trick, took it off, and apart something fell out of it, i believe it was a small metal shaving or something, definitely was not a part, put it back together and it turns smoothly. Might be a little looser turning than the others but works fine and not uncommon for a budget instrument. Thanks again.
 
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does anyone know if warmoth pickguards work on jazz bass 77 from squier?
I'm not sure about Warmoth, but I had a 2013-14 Squier V M 77 Jazz and it took a 2006 MIM Jazz pickguard perfectly and also a newer (2013?) MIA. No need to re-drill anything. Warmoth Jazz PG's are supposed to fit an MIA/MIM with no need for modifications. If I were you, I would print the PDF they offer in their web site, DO NOT SELECT "Fit to Page.": Invalid Link Removed
 
I picked up a Squier Affinity Jazz.

It uses mini pots of course and the shafts are smaller than standard so if you replace the pots you will need to take a dremel to the control plate to widen the holes and you will need new knobs as well.
 
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Hi. Joined late in this MEGA thread it's become.
I got a jazz standard the other day. I replaced the bridge with a black wilkinson brass saddled one, that fitted perfectly, but the jazz pups I had from iron gear (I think)
Were ever so slightly too big for the holes. ..
Now it's set up and playing amazingly well .
 
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Does anyone have or know a video of upgrading a Squier Affinity Jazz bass ? I would love to see someone doing a step by step? I have never tried but would love the reference to try.

Two questions…what is the country of origin (China or Indonesia) of your Affinity and what kind of upgrades do you have in mind?

I bought a Jazz pickup for a Squier CV Jazz from WD…Fender Jazz, MIM, but they would've been happy to charge me $20 more had I supplied a tracing because somehow no one there knows they're the exact same pickguards?

Yeah, but @kkaarrll is asking about an Indonesian-made VM, not a Chinese-made CV. It's very possible they get their parts from different sources which could lead to some incompatibility. For example, when I added a VM neck to an Affinity body, everything was compatible, except for the pickguard. That's ultimately why I decided to go "naked" and instead applied a bit of my DIY-Sharpie-Magic® to the screw threads.

cCOPnOf.jpg
 
Two questions…what is the country of origin (China or Indonesia) of your Affinity and what kind of upgrades do you have in mind?



Yeah, but @kkaarrll is asking about an Indonesian-made VM, not a Chinese-made CV. It's very possible they get their parts from different sources which could lead to some incompatibility. For example, when I added a VM neck to an Affinity body, everything was compatible, except for the pickguard. That's ultimately why I decided to go "naked" and instead applied a bit of my DIY-Sharpie-Magic® to the screw threads.

View attachment 2817818
Why not try filling the holes with black screws?
 
Why not try filling the holes with black screws?

'Tis a fair question. I left them empty for two reasons, both of which came immediately after I put a bunch of black pickguard screws into the holes.
  1. They stick up above the surface of the body. Fender-style pickguard screws aren't topped at a flat level, rather they have a bit of a dome shape. Having them sticking up above the surface is practically begging for gouged fingertips, something that my career (full-time massage & neuromuscular therapist) frowns upon. I mean, who wants a massage from someone with chewed up and hemorrhaging fingers?! :vomit:
  2. Tighten them down too much and they crack the finish. I tried to sink them further down in an attempt to make them more flush with the body, but all I got was a bunch of screws still sticking up and a chip off the finish for my troubles. :facepalm: :banghead:
If you look carefully at the hole along the bottom edge, the second one right of the control plate, you'll see what looks like a larger than normal hole. In fact, it's a piece of finish that flaked off when I tightened a screw down too far. I just blackened it out with the same Sharpie marker I used to dye the visible wood.

Pickguard screws are meant to hold down a wide sheet of plastic which spreads out the downward force. Also, they're thick enough to let the screws mostly/entirely submerge below it's surface. One would have to be riding very high in it's hole to run the risk of biting into one's finger.
 
'Tis a fair question. I left them empty for two reasons, both of which came immediately after I put a bunch of black pickguard screws into the holes.
  1. They stick up above the surface of the body. Fender-style pickguard screws aren't topped at a flat level, rather they have a bit of a dome shape. Having them sticking up above the surface is practically begging for gouged fingertips, something that my career (full-time massage & neuromuscular therapist) frowns upon. I mean, who wants a massage from someone with chewed up and hemorrhaging fingers?! :vomit:
  2. Tighten them down too much and they crack the finish. I tried to sink them further down in an attempt to make them more flush with the body, but all I got was a bunch of screws still sticking up and a chip off the finish for my troubles. :facepalm: :banghead:
If you look carefully at the hole along the bottom edge, the second one right of the control plate, you'll see what looks like a larger than normal hole. In fact, it's a piece of finish that flaked off when I tightened a screw down too far. I just blackened it out with the same Sharpie marker I used to dye the visible wood.

Pickguard screws are meant to hold down a wide sheet of plastic which spreads out the downward force. Also, they're thick enough to let the screws mostly/entirely submerge below it's surface. One would have to be riding very high in it's hole to run the risk of biting into one's finger.

Yep I know pg screws are counter sink heads... Use pan head screws. Flat heads.
 
Two questions…what is the country of origin (China or Indonesia) of your Affinity and what kind of upgrades do you have in mind?



Yeah, but @kkaarrll is asking about an Indonesian-made VM, not a Chinese-made CV. It's very possible they get their parts from different sources which could lead to some incompatibility. For example, when I added a VM neck to an Affinity body, everything was compatible, except for the pickguard. That's ultimately why I decided to go "naked" and instead applied a bit of my DIY-Sharpie-Magic® to the screw threads.

View attachment 2817818
Two questions…what is the country of origin (China or Indonesia) of your Affinity and what kind of upgrades do you have in mind?



Yeah, but @kkaarrll is asking about an Indonesian-made VM, not a Chinese-made CV. It's very possible they get their parts from different sources which could lead to some incompatibility. For example, when I added a VM neck to an Affinity body, everything was compatible, except for the pickguard. That's ultimately why I decided to go "naked" and instead applied a bit of my DIY-Sharpie-Magic® to the screw threads.

View attachment 2817818
I have not purchased the bass yet, so I do not know the country of origin, I know it will be an Black & White Affinity because they are the in abundance and I thought it would be fun to upgrade a bass and make it my own. Tuning keys, hi-mass bridge (which these are my main concern), pickups , pickguard, personal decals, fret inlay markers and have it somewhat like the picture . I am happy with basses I have now and I don't want to tamper with them until I have an idea of what I am doing.
 

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I have not purchased the bass yet, so I do not know the country of origin, I know it will be an Black & White Affinity because they are the in abundance and I thought it would be fun to upgrade a bass and make it my own. Tuning keys, hi-mass bridge (which these are my main concern), pickups , pickguard, personal decals, fret inlay markers and have it somewhat like the picture . I am happy with basses I have now and I don't want to tamper with them until I have an idea of what I am doing.

One at-a-glance way you can tell where it was made, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, are the tuners. From what I've seen, the Chinese-made Affinities have the dinky, 'lil closed-back tuners, while the Indonesian ones have open-gear tuners. If you're gonna replace the MIC tuners, you might have to widen the holes for the posts.
 
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I have not purchased the bass yet, so I do not know the country of origin, I know it will be an Black & White Affinity because they are the in abundance and I thought it would be fun to upgrade a bass and make it my own. Tuning keys, hi-mass bridge (which these are my main concern), pickups , pickguard, personal decals, fret inlay markers and have it somewhat like the picture . I am happy with basses I have now and I don't want to tamper with them until I have an idea of what I am doing.

Sounds like your P-Affinity is a Reliant from your assessment and description.

There was another manufacturer ("Cort") that had a seriously heavier bridge (005-4937-000) and larger diameter 500K pots (singly = 006-2730-00, or in the two-pack = 005-4936-000), the tuners (003-6400-000) were used prior to 05/'03. I own one of these - and I'll see if I can remember the magic to put a pix on here from a Linux Mint computer.

The standard Reliant bridge (006-2552-000) OTOH, was a lighter material and certainly not considered a high-mass bridge by any means. The tuners on this Reliant bass (006-2551-000) are for '03 to present. I believe these were closed back and had smaller 'wings' on the machines. The gear ratios were the same however, and I cannot remember the numerical values at all. I'm old.

There are other subtle differences - all used single-ply PGs with a 90 degree miter, not beveled, and the finish is catalyzed polyester.

The Reliant PG screws had a slightly higher dome than the Cort screws, and I can spot them from across the room.

I had a failure of the original p'ups, and put in some Peavey Fury p'ups and they are really much more powerful - but the tone was about the same.

Put on some flat Rotos and thump your way into Motown and early R&R.

This is me - looking for that picture for you. Maybe later - OK? I haven't had my evening coffee yet - nor my medications.

1520052389388.jpg
 
OK - let's see if this works - I hadda go to Hell and back to find them - -------

Here you can see that this bridge is not really HEAVY, but it IS much more substantial.

Here's a long-shot of the body for you.

100_7505.jpg


Yeah - I put a p'up cover on it - kinda like hubcaps on your 1957 Buick - huh?
(I wuz gonna say 'Oldsmobile' but everyone not a Boomer won't know what I mean)

See that tiny switch? It has a 0.100uF cap on one side and the stock 0.047uF cap on the other.

I can get into deep with that extra capacity cap! UP for bright, DOWN for deep.

The neck is to die for! It's as solid and slick as any real-honest-to-goodness Fender neck!
I put it on all my basses that I build - unless I feel it's not truly Fenderesque!

I try to build almost ALL my basses in the Fender style. The Jazz offset body design seems to get into a lot of my bodies.

There are more - as I find them!

Aha! More pixs! (Next post)
 

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