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Squier vintage modified club
- Thread starter zeppelinbass95
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Squier VM Fretless
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Added proper knobs, BadAss Bass II bridge, Fender Lights flatwounds (45 - 100), and Creative-Cuts roman numeral inlay decals.
About those inlay decals... ...I'm getting A & D string fret buzz at frets 4, 6, 8, & 11 because even after 24 coats of poly and meticulous sanding/buffing, there is still a raise in the finish where each decal is. Sometime today or tomorrow, I'll be sanding the finish down around those decals, masking them off, and applying a brush-on poly rather thick. Once that's done, I'm going to sand it down level with the poly already coating the decals, remove the masking and buff everything out evenly. There's a 50/50 chance I'm going to need a higher nut. I'll let you know how it works out.
On a side note, there was a lot of deliberation between polyurethane and an epoxy system. Ultimately, I chose poly specifically because it doesn't dry quite as hard as an epoxy system, and I figured with an already plastic fingerboard, the 'softness' of the finish would add warmth and 'mwah' to the sound of the instrument, overall. I was right. If I were doing this on a guitar with a real wood fingerboard, I would DEFINITELY use an epoxy system.
I can has number, please?
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Added proper knobs, BadAss Bass II bridge, Fender Lights flatwounds (45 - 100), and Creative-Cuts roman numeral inlay decals.
About those inlay decals... ...I'm getting A & D string fret buzz at frets 4, 6, 8, & 11 because even after 24 coats of poly and meticulous sanding/buffing, there is still a raise in the finish where each decal is. Sometime today or tomorrow, I'll be sanding the finish down around those decals, masking them off, and applying a brush-on poly rather thick. Once that's done, I'm going to sand it down level with the poly already coating the decals, remove the masking and buff everything out evenly. There's a 50/50 chance I'm going to need a higher nut. I'll let you know how it works out.
On a side note, there was a lot of deliberation between polyurethane and an epoxy system. Ultimately, I chose poly specifically because it doesn't dry quite as hard as an epoxy system, and I figured with an already plastic fingerboard, the 'softness' of the finish would add warmth and 'mwah' to the sound of the instrument, overall. I was right. If I were doing this on a guitar with a real wood fingerboard, I would DEFINITELY use an epoxy system.
I can has number, please?
I can has number, please?
Mine in action!
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I'm thinking of adding a maple neck and fender '62 pickups, what do ya think?
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I'm thinking of adding a maple neck and fender '62 pickups, what do ya think?
I think that's an awesome axe, but if you're waiting for a number, go take a nap. I've been waiting for days on end.
PS Personally, I think that guitar looks pretty good, and I know the tone on my Squier VM is monstrous.. I don't know if I'd change the pickups, myself..
I love maple necks with block inlays, and want to try a jazz neck. The pickup idea was just out of boredom, i like to change things 
I will never change the pickups on either my VM J or P . Those Duncan designed pickups are great!
My VM P now has a brother! I must say the J tone with a bit of overdrive is the best sound my ears have heard.
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- Apr 21, 2000
- 10,465
- 866
- 60
- Disclosures
- Gallien Krueger for the last 12 years!
Just goes to show you don't need a $3000 bass to sound good (Even though you are a great bassist). Thanks for that video. Much Respect!
I already have a VM Jag, from the first editions, absolutely love it, and covet more Squiers. I'm interested in some feedback on the VM '77 Jazz.
Some/most of the Squiers have slip-on knobs with a split shaft and they don't really take to the set-screw types of knobs.
The only Squier I have with solid shafts is the VM-Jaguar with the stacked pots/knobs, and they are all solid shafted.
The set-screw types are on solid shaft pots, although in days past, I have put the set-screw types on split shafts if I was careful to not put the set screw on the solid area and instead point the screw to the middle or the open end of the slot where nothing is going to collapse at all.
I guess you could stuff the slots with some metal pieces to fill them in and make the set-screws hold better.
The only Squier I have with solid shafts is the VM-Jaguar with the stacked pots/knobs, and they are all solid shafted.
The set-screw types are on solid shaft pots, although in days past, I have put the set-screw types on split shafts if I was careful to not put the set screw on the solid area and instead point the screw to the middle or the open end of the slot where nothing is going to collapse at all.
I guess you could stuff the slots with some metal pieces to fill them in and make the set-screws hold better.
Yeah some folks do that, fill the slot with something. I've seen people use a piece of nylon tie-wrap cut to size, some use a piece of popsicle stick. I would rather just get the proper type of knob, they're not that hard to find, and they're not that expensive. I did that with my VM Jazz in order to change out the P-bass type chrome dome knobs for proper Jazz types. I was able to find push on versions of those at Bass Parts Resource. I think All-Parts has push-on versions of the flat-top P-bass knobs.
Are you needing a number? I can do that for you - if you like.
Sign and date on the dotted line below that you are the player on the videos though (lol)
X.................................................................................../../2011
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