I will accept these drawings. Know however, while you're a blessing to my luthier, you are a blight to my savings account
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Squier vintage modified club
- Thread starter zeppelinbass95
- Start date
-
- Tags
- club
- Status
I will accept these drawings. Know however, while you're a blessing to my luthier, you are a blight to my savings account
So, let me see if I understand this right, in layman's terms.
A 2 or 3 way toggle will allow you to - without effecting tone or volume controls - bleed off highs per the value of the capacitors on the toggle?
So one moment you may have full volume, fully open tone with that .47 cap, and then you flick the switch to the .1, and though the tone remains open and the volume remains the same, it drops into the basement?
A 2 or 3 way toggle will allow you to - without effecting tone or volume controls - bleed off highs per the value of the capacitors on the toggle?
So one moment you may have full volume, fully open tone with that .47 cap, and then you flick the switch to the .1, and though the tone remains open and the volume remains the same, it drops into the basement?
Flipping the switch modifies the tone only and yet it is still adjustable inside it's own tone curve by the tone knob just like it is in the normal tone cap value.
The volume control is unaffected. You really have to hear it to appreciate it.
The volume control is unaffected. You really have to hear it to appreciate it.
So how precisely do those caps modify the tone? Reduction of highs? Do they effect clarity? Does a higher value cap reduce unwanted technique noise?
I run the stock capin the down position of the switch (orient the switch that way if you like) and the bass is normal as it came from the factory.
Flip the switch and I cut a lot more of the HIGHs off the top, resulting in what sounds like a serious boost in the LOWs.
That's a mis-perception, as the HIGHs getting clipped makes the LOWs sound so much more powerful (kinda the way the voodoo-logic works out for HM bridges and pseudo-tonewoods).
But the tone goes into chocolate land like Motown and the Surf-sound that I like very much.
Yeah - finger/string noise also goes pretty much away.
Flip the switch and I cut a lot more of the HIGHs off the top, resulting in what sounds like a serious boost in the LOWs.
That's a mis-perception, as the HIGHs getting clipped makes the LOWs sound so much more powerful (kinda the way the voodoo-logic works out for HM bridges and pseudo-tonewoods).
But the tone goes into chocolate land like Motown and the Surf-sound that I like very much.
Yeah - finger/string noise also goes pretty much away.
I need to get good at soldering so I can do these things myself at a lower cost....
+100
Electrically, your bass is a VERY VERY simple creature. Get comfortable in there.
I also need to find a local shop that sells components. Are there any chains that carry 250k, 500k and 1 meg pots?
Music-Go-Round, if you have them in your area, stocks all that stuff. Pretty sure GC and SA do too
If you just take one leg of the tone cap and sent it to the switch, you can get this to work on pretty much any V V T system, as your jazz uses except for an active unit methinks
Basses like the VM-Jaguar would require a different setup to get the same effect though as it is a stacked V/T V/T setup.
Actually there are so many physical possibilities for a switch of this kind that you can have your original .047uF in an ON/OFF and just have another ,047uF cap to be added in on the switch as needed too, resulting in .100uF.
Notice that there is some rounding off of the capacitor's values.
You might see a cap rated at .050uF - and for all intents and purposes it's the same as a .047uF until you get to NASA stuff where everything is a goldie and better.
If you actually need a drawing of a Jazz setup with the toggle switch, let me know and I can draw and scan one for you. I would like to use my PCB-CNC program, but it's just a lot of excess stuff to play with I feel, as I don't use it enough to need it all the time.
I just breadboard and look for smoke - no smoke; and I figger it's gonna work.
(At the extremely low voltages with which we are dealing here, you ain't gonna see smoke anyway).
Basses like the VM-Jaguar would require a different setup to get the same effect though as it is a stacked V/T V/T setup.
Actually there are so many physical possibilities for a switch of this kind that you can have your original .047uF in an ON/OFF and just have another ,047uF cap to be added in on the switch as needed too, resulting in .100uF.
Notice that there is some rounding off of the capacitor's values.
You might see a cap rated at .050uF - and for all intents and purposes it's the same as a .047uF until you get to NASA stuff where everything is a goldie and better.
If you actually need a drawing of a Jazz setup with the toggle switch, let me know and I can draw and scan one for you. I would like to use my PCB-CNC program, but it's just a lot of excess stuff to play with I feel, as I don't use it enough to need it all the time.
I just breadboard and look for smoke - no smoke; and I figger it's gonna work.
(At the extremely low voltages with which we are dealing here, you ain't gonna see smoke anyway).
Hey Joe or anyone that knows, do our VM Jazz's have a flat or radiused bottom nuts?
As for caps, just remember LEGATTABASS, the higher the value the lower the freq. cutoff point: deeper sound. Commit this to memory. Learn to solder and experiment.
If you don't want to drill a hole for a switch, use a push pull pot for your tone and wire up a pair of caps, same result, no toggle. Lots of diagrams out there, just don't try to understand how they work, just connect the dots as pictured.
As for caps, just remember LEGATTABASS, the higher the value the lower the freq. cutoff point: deeper sound. Commit this to memory. Learn to solder and experiment.
If you don't want to drill a hole for a switch, use a push pull pot for your tone and wire up a pair of caps, same result, no toggle. Lots of diagrams out there, just don't try to understand how they work, just connect the dots as pictured.
I can't tell - it's under the cover!
We talkin' 'barrels' here or 'nuts'? (Don't got there)
OK - gotcha.
I don't understand the question, but this I understand.
Figgerin' that a nut was on the top, but he said 'bottom' and that kinda made me think - you don't wanna know what I thought - but I was willing to go with the nut being on the bottom which is odd - because we all know a nut is on the top unless you play - well, I'll stop now.
I don't understand the question, but this I understand.
Figgerin' that a nut was on the top, but he said 'bottom' and that kinda made me think - you don't wanna know what I thought - but I was willing to go with the nut being on the bottom which is odd - because we all know a nut is on the top unless you play - well, I'll stop now.
Oh on the topic of VM's once again, Joe, I remember you sent me a layout for mounting the bridge cover on a P bass. Do you have anything similar for the VM TB or could you point me to one?
- Status
