Off the top of my head, no.
The Fender Am Std and Nordstrand drop-in replacements are both vintage-voiced, with a tight low end and a lot of upper mids.
It might be easier to get there if you installed a preamp for some extra "zing", and onboard EQ.
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Squier Vintage Modified Precision V: who's got one?
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
The Fender Am Std and Nordstrand drop-in replacements are both vintage-voiced, with a tight low end and a lot of upper mids.
It might be easier to get there if you installed a preamp for some extra "zing", and onboard EQ.
See I thought of that but I already use my Eden wtdi for that (outboard, but works well). Just kinda wondering if there's a different option. Guess I'll keep looking.
I finally got to a/b my Squier with an American Standard Precision V today. As much as I love my Squier, the Fender is certainly a better bass. Mainly, I thought the Fender pickup has much better low mid response. The Squier was more nasal, and had a thinner bottom. The Fender had much better and smoother, and accurate tuners. Obviously, the Fender has a better bridge.
Ultimately, the Fender is nearly 4x the price of the Squier VM Precision V, but the Squier is by no means 4x worse than the Fender. I say it may be 60-75% as good as the American Standard Precision V.
Ultimately, the Fender is nearly 4x the price of the Squier VM Precision V, but the Squier is by no means 4x worse than the Fender. I say it may be 60-75% as good as the American Standard Precision V.
Having owned one with both sets, the AmStd is definitely NOT vintage voiced, IMO, at least in comparison to the Nordy or stock pickup of the Squier VM. It's very tame in the mids...almost scooped. It's the single negative in the AmStd P5 that I can find. If anyone is looking to swap from stock, don't bother with the AmStd pups. They are the same thing that came in the pre 2012 P's but in a 5 format. The stock ones in the VM do a MUCH better job of classic P tone and the Nordy's are great as well.
Has your Squier had a pro setup?
The pickup height in particular, has been way off Fender specs on every Vintage Modified Precision V I've seen so far. That alone makes a huge difference in how any bass with a split pickup sounds.
I've compared the Squier and Fender pickups back-to-back in my own bass, and the tonal different was much less than you describe. But only when they were both adjusted to the same pickup height plus or minus a few thou...
Generally do Squiers come too low or high in terms of pickup height? Mine pretty much has the set up it came with. I lowered the bridge a bit, and there is some buzz compared to the Fender, which was really dialed in nicely.
The biggest problem is imbalance. The longer pickup half has to be set at a pretty steep angle to get the A and B strings the same height up off the pole pieces. Every Squier I've seen so far, had the pickup set too flat, so the A string signal was much weaker than the B string.
The height was way off, too. Some were too high, some too low. Use the Fender specs for modern pickups, off their bass setup guide. It's available for download from the Support section of the Fender website.
Here's how to use the measurements in the Guide. I like to use allen wrenches as feeler gauges when setting the action height:
Start by getting the truss rod adjustment right, then the action height. Wait a day, then adjust the nut slots, which will probably be too high.
Next, re-check the truss rod, and adjust again as necessary. Always wait overnight before doing your next adjustment.
Once that settles down, then do the intonation, and recheck the height and truss rod again.
Only at that point, are you ready to adjust the pickups.
If you're one of those people who tends to strip or break hardware, don't do it yourself. Have a good tech do it, and save yourself a lot of potential headaches.
The height was way off, too. Some were too high, some too low. Use the Fender specs for modern pickups, off their bass setup guide. It's available for download from the Support section of the Fender website.
Here's how to use the measurements in the Guide. I like to use allen wrenches as feeler gauges when setting the action height:
Start by getting the truss rod adjustment right, then the action height. Wait a day, then adjust the nut slots, which will probably be too high.
Next, re-check the truss rod, and adjust again as necessary. Always wait overnight before doing your next adjustment.
Once that settles down, then do the intonation, and recheck the height and truss rod again.
Only at that point, are you ready to adjust the pickups.
If you're one of those people who tends to strip or break hardware, don't do it yourself. Have a good tech do it, and save yourself a lot of potential headaches.
My opinion pretty much mirrors Steves, and as I have both a P5 and a VM P5, I was able to do a side by side comparison. My P5 has Sadowsky black label steels and a Sprague orange drop but is otherwise stock. The VM P5 is stock. I do my own set ups, not to Steves level of detail, but sufficient for me. I agree with the Dr., and feel the P5 has slightly more girth (or maybe a slightly darker tone) and the VM P5 has a little more nasal tone. However, despite the fact I have full P5 electronics available to drop in, including an orange drop, I have elected to leave the VM P5 stock as the differences between the two are so minor, I'm going to wait until after a string change before I reconsider a change.
The bottom line for me is that the differences are so slight, no changes need to be made. In fact I think the VM P5 has a better tone for Rock, the P5 better suits my Country band.
The bottom line for me is that the differences are so slight, no changes need to be made. In fact I think the VM P5 has a better tone for Rock, the P5 better suits my Country band.
Doc Cheese,
I certainly agree adjusting the pickup height can have a very positive effect with the Squier. When I set mine I sat there with a screwdriver and started with a very low adjustment. Then I would raise and lower it for sound adjustment. It's a very basic way of doing it, but it certainly does work.
Also, spent a couple of bucks and replaced the pots, jack and cap. I went with a .1uf cap (what the OLD p basses, and AVRIs have). I bought this kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321353330858?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
This fattened up the low mids and bass and the bass isn't as zingy. I'm very happy with it. I do suggest you take a look at this thread: http://www.talkbass.com/threads/tone-roll-off-for-pbass-which-tone-cap-why-1uf-or-05uf.543926/ There are a lot of options and it sounds like .033uf could be a good compromise with an American pickup.
Also, I've replaced the tuners with licensed Ultralights. These are my favorite tuners and they did knock about 1/2 lb off the weight of the bass. They stay in tune much better than the stock tuners. I bought my set here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301343965517?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
All the best,
Bob
I certainly agree adjusting the pickup height can have a very positive effect with the Squier. When I set mine I sat there with a screwdriver and started with a very low adjustment. Then I would raise and lower it for sound adjustment. It's a very basic way of doing it, but it certainly does work.
Also, spent a couple of bucks and replaced the pots, jack and cap. I went with a .1uf cap (what the OLD p basses, and AVRIs have). I bought this kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321353330858?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
This fattened up the low mids and bass and the bass isn't as zingy. I'm very happy with it. I do suggest you take a look at this thread: http://www.talkbass.com/threads/tone-roll-off-for-pbass-which-tone-cap-why-1uf-or-05uf.543926/ There are a lot of options and it sounds like .033uf could be a good compromise with an American pickup.
Also, I've replaced the tuners with licensed Ultralights. These are my favorite tuners and they did knock about 1/2 lb off the weight of the bass. They stay in tune much better than the stock tuners. I bought my set here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/301343965517?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
All the best,
Bob
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I raised my bridge slightly so it will be close to the height it was coming from the factory because lowering the saddles created a little rattle. I raised pickup height over the G & B strings, and I certainly notice a bit more powerful tone. I am only doing minor tweaks because this bass is pretty doggone good already. I just think the Fender has a bit more booty and certainly better tuners.
I'm putting in a Wyldepickups P-46 in my sunburst one. Waiting for the black pickguard now from ebay and then it's off to the luthiers for body routing, pickguard routing/fitting and then wiring. I am doing a reverse P while I am at it, to fatten the A,D,and G, while tightening up the B and E, hopefully. I will lose the classic look and sound, especially as I am going to put the pickup in the smack middle to gain symmentry, but it's worth experimenting a little imo, no? 
Think I should replace wiring and go with a 0.1 cap since that's what Bill recommended in his diagram?
Think I should replace wiring and go with a 0.1 cap since that's what Bill recommended in his diagram?
Played it out on Sunday. With the tone rolled back about halfway it was a bit too muddy (as compared to my Fender P, Ric 4000, and Warwick FNA, pots are CTS 250K with an orange drop .047, USA P5 pickups) but wide open it sounded great. The low B is solid. Weight feels mid range, as usual I can't find my scale, but I'm guessing in the 9-9.5 range. Rattle can lacquer sticks to the poly pretty well if you sand it first (no the bass is not available in green). No sticky spots or anything weird.
Edit: The strings are DR Silver Stars. I hate the new coating they use and have for a while, but these strings were wasting away in a box. They may be responsibe for why it didn't sound right with the tone rolled back.
Edit: The strings are DR Silver Stars. I hate the new coating they use and have for a while, but these strings were wasting away in a box. They may be responsibe for why it didn't sound right with the tone rolled back.
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Now that's a pretty thing there. That bass is cool, too.
I've only played mine with the stock strings, which were - okayish, I think, maybe? - and Chromes, which are my first foray into flats and which I love. I pretty much expect to keep these on till they break.
Played mine out several times now. Originally received it second hand strung with labella low tension flats which work really well with it all else stock. Replaced the bridge with a Fender american deluxe and plan on drilling for string through body over holiday break. Now strung with a set of smith compressors .. Nice balance with these . next up will be while I have it apart replace the pots and cap while installing Reed James engineering neo blades with hidden poles. Thought about doing a reverse, but thought better of it for now till I get a new pick guard.
Got black pearl block fret markers in the mail. Going to install those.
Mine is Olympic white with a tort guard.
Sound wise and playability I feel nothing is truly lacking low action stays in tune. Sounds great as is. Just feel its 90 percent of what I'm looking for the mods are to bring it the rest of the way.... Love it.
Got black pearl block fret markers in the mail. Going to install those.
Mine is Olympic white with a tort guard.
Sound wise and playability I feel nothing is truly lacking low action stays in tune. Sounds great as is. Just feel its 90 percent of what I'm looking for the mods are to bring it the rest of the way.... Love it.
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jzbass6
One Nation Under A Groove
M3phist0,
Very nice touches to your VM P5. I've got a question about the fit of the Fender Deluxe American bridge. Did you need to drill holes, or do some of the existing line up?
Thanks,
Bob
Very nice touches to your VM P5. I've got a question about the fit of the Fender Deluxe American bridge. Did you need to drill holes, or do some of the existing line up?
Thanks,
Bob
4 line up But about 1/16' off center moving the bridge toward treble side. Not a big deal for the strings still line up OK thanks to the grooved saddles. I will dowel and redrill when drilling for through body. If I were not doing that, its not a big deal really and could be left as is. A huge improvement over stock with the grooves underneath the saddles immobilizing them from side to side movement. Got it from amazon for 45.00 shipped.
I intended this for string through body installation to increase downward pressure in the saddles because the saddles almost bottom out at the action height I like, and I want to avoid shimming the neck. Now if only I could find pickup and bridge ashtrays....
The tuners are loosish but it holds tune and they don't rattle. In the future I will replace them with hipshot licensed lightweights.
This bass is surprisingly good straight outta the box I just can't leave well enough alone
...It is far more appropriate in my country band Marilyn's Ghost.
Than my Warwick Dolphin, still it comes out with me every show.
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