I replaced the stock cap (250k CTS pots and Switchcraft jack too) with a .1 uf oil cap. It knocked a little zing out and darkened the tone a bit. It is a very good mod for me.
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I replaced the stock cap (250k CTS pots and Switchcraft jack too) with a .1 uf oil cap. It knocked a little zing out and darkened the tone a bit. It is a very good mod for me.
I switched my order at GC from a SB one to the lone white one left in distribution since the SB one was backordered and missed its expected arrive date into the warehouse. I was thinking the chances of a SB being lighter than white was higher from the posts I've read.
Its not featherweight but 9lb 4oz aint too shabby.
I see the CAR one listed at Sweetwater is 10+. They must have casted this last run out of cement.
One thing to be aware of, is that the normal P-bass and Stingray pickup routs overlap each other slightly. If you're dropping a humbucker into a P-bass as an afterthought, it will have to be pushed a little closer to the bridge.
While you can get some interesting new tones that way, it won't quite nail the classic Stingray sound (assuming that's what you were after).
The neck on the Jazz is thinner front-to-back, and the fingerboard edges aren't rolled off as agressively. The Precision is a little deeper, and has a bit of a soft-V profile that makes the shoulders feel less prominent.Has anyone ever tried both the VM Jazz V and the Precision V ? I have had my hands on the Jazz and I was quite keen on it but I already have a 4 string Jazz so for variation sake I would like to add a Precision. I managed to try out a 4 string MIM precision but I wasn't sold on the neck of it. It seems as though the Squiers use a bit of a different neck so I would like to hear some experience with it!![]()
If you smack them together it is only a fraction away from the original position and sounds the same, more or less
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The neck on the Jazz is thinner front-to-back, and the fingerboard edges aren't rolled off as agressively. The Precision is a little deeper, and has a bit of a soft-V profile that makes the shoulders feel less prominent.
In my hands, the result is that the jazz neck doesn't feel as comfortable, and gives the sensation of being wide and clunky.
The Jazz is also a pig weight-wise, which is significant if you're a weight weenie like me...
Exactly. Fender and Squier Jazz V's are a funny bunch, in that they defy the normal tradition of Jazz basses having a skinny neck.So you're saying that between the two the jazz is the clunky one ? I would have thought it to be the other way round , just have to find a way to get my hands on one of them. Thanks for the input!![]()
Good luck finding a shop that stocks them. I've got 2 GCs, Sam Ash, and 2 Music & Arts that do not stock it.
Yup. P-basses are all about those complex, hollow mids. It takes a different EQ strategy to get the best out of them, which one of the reasons that they're sometimes overlooked.I find myself having to really rethink how I eq now that I am playing a P5 a lot.
...I think the pickup is pretty hot on this bass too because this P5 works better going through the active input on my amp.
That's towards the heavy end for a VMP5. Mine was 8lb 12oz out of the box.I finally weighed my P5 last night. It is 9 lbs. 6 oz. That is way better than the VM Jazz Deluxe V I had a while back. For reference, my Cirrus is 7 lbs. 9 oz.
That's towards the heavy end for a VMP5. Mine was 8lb 12oz out of the box.
FYI, for $75 on eBay, you can get a set of the offshore, licensed Hipshot Ultralights. You'll need to make some post hole shims out of a soda can, but the Ultralights knock 6 ounces off the bass, and improve the balance.
If you decide to do the mod, it helps the cosmetics if you cover the old screw holes with a carpenter's wax stick, or go whole hog and use wood filler and a little clear nail polish.
While you've got the tuners off, it only adds about half an hour to the job to remove the neck and carefully level out and thin the finish on the back of the neck. It's best to start with the paper wrapped around a block, to knock down all the high spots. The gloss OEM finish is very thick, so if you go slow and gently, you can remove quite a lot without rubbing through to bare wood. Depending on how matte you want it, you can quit after going from 320 to 400, or keep going right out to 4000 grit, for a semi-gloss look.
Everyone I've done this for, has commented on the improved feel of the neck after levelling. On mine, the change in the resonant characteristics (tuners and sanding combined) also served to reduce a slight dead spot on the G-string, and open up the tone.
If you decide to sand/polish out the divots on the back of the headstock, be careful not to sand the serial number off- it's up on top of the finish.
Changing the tuners and smoothing the neck is cheaper than a pickup swap, and it makes a bigger improvement, IMO/IME.