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Double Bass Stagg EUB megathread

#181
r0ckb0tt0m said:
Anyone tried to replace their strings on the Stagg before? Which ones are good to get? I play pizzicato mostly.
Click to expand...

Not exactly replaced, but I have fitted an extra string when I converted it to 5 string. Bought a 3/4 size string and it was barely long enough for the silk winding to clear the nut, so it might be worth checking the length of any strings you buy to make sure that you don't have the same problem. I suspect it's because of the extra length between the string anchor and the bridge compared to an AUB. 4/4 might be the answer but check first.
 
#182
I've been trying to cut down the sustain on my Stagg to get a more acoustic sound, and I've found that a simple oval bath sponge cut in half widthwise is just the right size and shape to fit in front of the bridge as a mute! OK, it looks ugly, but it gives that nice thump and makes it sound a lot less like a fretless bass guitar.

Has anyone else tried something like this?
 
#184
nickidame said:
Thanks to mateybass for the mods... I'm definitely going to do the grounding/shielding thing...makes perfect sense.

However... it's not clear to me what the purpose of putting foam/rubber under the piezo pickups is. How does that help the tone?

Can you add to my enlightenment?
Click to expand...

It lessens how much tapping the body, and so on, affect the piezos.
 
#185
Darkstrike said:
It lessens how much tapping the body, and so on, affect the piezos.
Click to expand...

Thanks Darkstrike...

Ah... Well, that certainly makes sense now that you point it out :) Oddly enough, that wasn't the first thing I noticed.

I also found that it seemed to cut back on the "shimmer" - i.e. the slightly bright metal/electric sound.

The E and A immediately had a darker/woodier tone. But the G/D was still a bit bright. So, I went ahead and put a second layer of rubber down on the G/D side... this seemed to help still more.

While I was in there, I also put a layer of shielding between the body and the rubber. I have no idea if this helped, but it made me feel better.

I followed the detailed instructions for the rest of the shielding around the electronics - It took me quite a while, but I was very neat about it. The result was fantastic. The buzzing (which was quite minor and subtle...but still bugging me) was eliminated - This has made the overall sound a lot cleaner.

The action is still a bit too high for my taste... but the only way to take it lower is to remove the adjusting washers... and that takes it too far. I don't have the equipment to sand it down accurately.... (open to suggestions here)

I will say that I am really, really pleased with the overall tone. And not "for the amount of money I paid"... I just think the tone is spectacular.

Cheers,

Nicki
 
#186
nickidame said:
The action is still a bit too high for my taste... but the only way to take it lower is to remove the adjusting washers... and that takes it too far. I don't have the equipment to sand it down accurately.... (open to suggestions here)

I will say that I am really, really pleased with the overall tone. And not "for the amount of money I paid"... I just think the tone is spectacular.

Cheers,

Nicki
Click to expand...

Cutting the nut slots so the strings are closer to the fret board will make a big difference to the action, and the accuracy of the dot markers :)

If you don't have the equipment to sand the upper bridge bottom, you could always try putting a shim underneath the neck in the neck pocket to angle the neck slightly back. One of the benefits of having a removable neck.

You're absolutely right about the sound. I shared a gig with a proper double bass player tonight (19th century German carved jobby he had, nice it was too), he was really impressed with the sound I was getting, so much so, he was talking about getting a Stagg himself for amplified gigs.

I do find that the longer you own one, the better you get at dialling in that woody sound. I love my 5 string Stagg and having heard some EUBs costing four times the price, I wasn't impressed with the electric bass sound they made. Just don't tell everyone or Stagg prices will start to go up... oh hang on, they are going up already :)
 
#187
I continued to be frustrated with the high action - And I did take a look at shimming the neck as an alternative to sanding the underside of the bridge - But (although it probably would have worked) this seemed like opening a can of worms - Plus tweaking it back and forth would have been an absolute pain.

i.e - Put in shim > Bolt Neck back > restring > retune > TEST > Unstring > Unbolt Neck > adjust shim

While I was looking though, I did clean up the interior of the neck cavity. There was a little roughness in the finish.. a few dings and some "globby lacquer" which I tidied up. (Made me feel like the exercise wasn't a complete waste of time :hmm:

So, I borrowed good quality flat sander from a friend and sanded the "feet" of the bridge.

I really, really took my time doing this - Never mind "measure twice, cut once" ... I went verrry slowly making sure that I kept each foot as flat and parallel to each other as possible. I also kept an eye out for keeping it perpendicular to the bolts.

I ended up taking off about 3/16 inch (4mm?) - And it took me a bit of mucking around with the screws to adjust the relative height of D/G vs EA but....

I'm really, really pleased with the results :hyper::hyper::hyper:-

The instrument is much more playable... livelier, and a good deal faster. It also makes it more versatile, allowing me to transfer some techniques and tones that I enjoy on my fretless BG. (popping, false harmonics and other grooviness)

My sense is that there is a very slight, very subtle change in tone - The higher action makes the strings stiffer and more dark and "thuddy" - More like a DB. The lower action makes for a slightly brighter sound - More like a BG.

But then, with the lower action it's much easier to get a "growl" with the left hand - which brings it back into DB tones. So it's a bit of a trade off.

My feeling is that, as my technique improves, I'll be better able to control timbre - And the bottom line here is that I'm enjoying playing my EDB even more -

.... Next Project > New strings

Any suggestions?

N
 
#188
I think I've identified the strings which come with the Stagg EUB as standard.

There's an online database which allows you to search for your string type @ [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I filled in the info based on my stings and came up with 2 possibilities:

a) Super Sensitive Red Label Bass C-High
b) Thomastik Spirocor Bass Orch Tuning/All Strings Medium

Since the Super Sensitive Red are somewhat cheaper... It's logical to assume that these are the ones that come as standard.

Could someone else confirm or deny?

Thanks in advance

N
 
#189
nickidame said:
So, I borrowed good quality flat sander from a friend and sanded the "feet" of the bridge.

I'm really, really pleased with the results :hyper::hyper::hyper:-

The instrument is much more playable... livelier, and a good deal faster. It also makes it more versatile, allowing me to transfer some techniques and tones that I enjoy on my fretless BG. (popping, false harmonics and other grooviness)


My feeling is that, as my technique improves, I'll be better able to control timbre - And the bottom line here is that I'm enjoying playing my EDB even more -

.... Next Project > New strings

Any suggestions?

N
Click to expand...

You got there in the end, welcome to the cheap but cheerful EUB club :D

Just to clarify, I presume you meant you sanded the "feet" of the upper section of the bridge :)

Strings... You will need to check what size strings you need. I bought a 3/4 size Thomastik low B for my 5-string Stagg conversion and when fitting, the peg-box silk winding had to be stripped a little for it to clear the nut. So I reckon either 7/8 or 4/4 strings should be the right length but check first. The reason for needing extra length is because of the extra distance between string anchor and bridge, greater on the Stagg than a normal DB, and also the reason why you'll need something to dampen the strings between those two points to stop them ringing sympathetically whilst playing. I use a piece of foam.

You're right about the growl though... I love the way the pizz note swells. :D
 
#190
mateybass said:
You got there in the end, welcome to the cheap but cheerful EUB club :D

Just to clarify, I presume you meant you sanded the "feet" of the upper section of the bridge :)
...
You're right about the growl though... I love the way the pizz note swells. :D
Click to expand...

Re: Sanding - I actually took a bit off the feet of both the upper and lower bridge components. I would definitely emphasize to anyone else trying this to measure carefully, to go slow and to keep checking the fit...

If you take too much off the feet of the lower bridge, you're going to run into clearance problems - If you take too much off the feet upper bridge, then you'll end up increasing the width of its "footprint" which (might) change the way that the vibration is transferred through the posts.

I took about 80% (3.5 mm off the feet of the lower bridge) and 20% (0.5 mm off the feet of the upper bridge) - In both cases my end result was cleaner[no rough spots], flatter [across the footprint] and "truer" [more perpendicular]to the posts than factory spec.

I still have a bit more fussing to do - With all this close up inspection, I've found a few globby spots on the neck where the lacquer was applied a bit "enthusiastically". It "quacks a bit - and even though it's between half tones... What the heck. I'm going to give it just a few strokes of v. fine grade sandpaper.

Re: Strings, I'll post separately.

By the way thanks for the guidance and support :)
 
#191
mateybass said:
You got there in the end,

Strings... You will need to check what size strings you need. I bought a 3/4 size Thomastik low B for my 5-string Stagg conversion and when fitting, the peg-box silk winding had to be stripped a little for it to clear the nut. So I reckon either 7/8 or 4/4 strings should be the right length but check first. The reason for needing extra length is because of the extra distance between string anchor and bridge, greater on the Stagg than a normal DB, and also the reason why you'll need something to dampen the strings between those two points to stop them ringing sympathetically whilst playing. I use a piece of foam.
Click to expand...

I've been tracking threads and it looks like the measurement range for a Stagg EUB from nut to bridge is between 41" and 42"... I think I read that yours is 41.25 mine is 41.4 ... I think some folk measure inside-to- inside others center-to-center which accounts for some of the variance... And, of course bridge position (and whether the damn thing is straight or not) will have a bearing.

I found a size guide here @ Link Removed

The bottom line here appears to be - As you suggest... it looks like the Stagg "3/4" is almost "7/8" in some of its "vital statistics"

7/8 (if available) might be a good choice

However, I'm not sure that there's a big enough difference to warrant opting for the longer (and more expensive) 4/4 bass strings.

Also, in opting for 4/4, you may be trading one set of problems for another... 4/4's are designed to operate at 10% higher tensions than 3/4's - See @ http://www.quinnviolins.com/qv_spirocorebass.shtml

As to string composition/construction for EUB's - I'm keeping an open mind until I've done some more homework. The EUB has different physics considerations as compared to the Acoustic Upright.

I definitely do NOT think that whats best for an acoustic is whats best for an EUB

One _major_ difference is that EUB's don't have to worry about generating volume - In fact, it almost the opposite problem... an EUB can almost accidentally generate hammer-ons and pull-offs.

EUB's are still fairly unusual so, a lot of these questions are just now being asked...I think that there's still more to learn about string choice.

I'm still plowing through the AUB string threads - and I'll report back here if I find anything interesting

N
 
#193
Hey guys I am knew in everything (Forum,music,doublebass,life,e.t.c.)...I done this clever thing And I bought one stagg edb... I realy like it but i underestand about the noises problem... Know I am intersted for I bow... what I should do? I am alone to this so tell me something about the strings the bows the rosins... please!!!!
 
#194
So again all its about money so I am saying what will happen if I buy a bow and use it with this strings? I will destroy the hair? its all about the sound or the technik? I just want to work with bow a little, bat not to waste money to something that will not works at the future.. I am talking for the bow and the bow hairs.... Please suggest something I am realy ready to buy the cheapest bow just for practice... And i dont know the reason beacause I can buy A realy standart quality bow with some more money and to keep it for all my life with this bass and the athers i will buy in the future!!! is it true?

So again how I can understand the appropriatιοn of the strings?

what the danger buy using something wrong?

Witch bow do you think Is a realy good quality for students and also for proffesional players...

what else I mast check out for stagg eub????
 
#196
Hello Eoz,
I purchased an inexpensive "student quality" bow to use on my Stagg. I am using the original 4 strings plus a low b orchestral string I added.

It seems to work well when I get my technique right. (I haven't used a bow for over 30 years!)

You will want to get a fairly soft or sticky rosin specifically for bass use. I tried some fiddle rosin because it was readily available, and I hadn't ordered bass rosin yet -it was useless on the bass!

With a new bow and new strings you will need to use a lot of rosin at first until it gets worked into the hairs of the bow and the texture of the string.

Hope this helps.
 
#197
Hi,

nickidame said:
I think I've identified the strings which come with the Stagg EUB as standard.

There's an online database which allows you to search for your string type @ [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I filled in the info based on my stings and came up with 2 possibilities:

a) Super Sensitive Red Label Bass C-High
b) Thomastik Spirocor Bass Orch Tuning/All Strings Medium

Since the Super Sensitive Red are somewhat cheaper... It's logical to assume that these are the ones that come as standard.

Could someone else confirm or deny?
Click to expand...

I can definitely deny Thomastik Spirocore Mittel/Medium. The original strings are much softer than Thomastik Spirocores.

I haven't played Red Label yet, but I doubt they are Red Labels. Red Lables are massive steel core and these strings don't sound like massive steel core strings.

I assumed they are Olympia strings (from Korea, like the Stagg EUB), but they are not. The Olympia sound like thin massive steel core and have different colours for the strings.
For the price of the Stagg EUB they must be some cheap strings, probably a specially made string for the Stagg EUB.
For cheap strings the original EUB strings are not bad, but it would be a good idea to get better ones like Thomastik Spirocore Weich for Jazz or arco/hybrid strings form a major string making company (depends on your taste of sound and feel).
I have a 4/4 acoustic, a 3/4 Clevinger EUB and a Stagg EUB and looked for new strings. It seems that some 3/4 only strings are too short for the Stagg. If you buy Thomastik better get 4/4 sized strings. Corelli might be a bit short or not (the high C for my 4/4 was a bit short, the regular set I got later was OK), Super Sensitive, Pirastro and Thomastik 4/4 are OK. Innovation should work too.

BTW, I have a modified Roland MIDI-Pickup for my Stagg EUB used with an AXON converter. Still planning on making them for my DB and Clevinger EUB.

Jörg
 
#199
thanks a lot but because I realy canot buy somthing that doesnt work...just decause I dont have the money... I want to beg you if you can give us a sample...(small video at youtube?) a think that many people will appreciate that... I mean one video with the industrial stagg strings and a cheap bow...(you know the standarts)....all beginners will love you!!!
 

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