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Steinberger Club

I did a session once where the engineer wasn't happy with my L2 and asked me to try my P bass (with rounds) instead. He was happy and that was what ended up on the album. I was just a sideman so no skin off my nose.

The next time I used the L2 was as a member of a celtic band with the bass detuned a whole step to DGCF. That engineer had no comment whatsoever, he was fine with the sound.

When strung with roundwounds and the controls wide open like most engineers prefer (so they can EQ as needed during the mix) my L2 is really, really bright. That "piano string" sound. That's hardly suitable for all styles of music!!! It can certainly be EQed during the mix for less treble or if the engineer is OK with the player rolling off some treble, using flats, stuffing foam under the strings, I think it's versatile enough. It has one huge advantage over a typical P bass...the note definition is never lost regardless of the tone control setting.

From an audio engineer's perspective, subtractive EQ is always preferable to additive EQ. In that regard, the XL is a perfect, neutral platform to begin tone shaping. It's much easier to remove any unwanted frequencies than to try to create those that aren't present to begin with!
 
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If I wanted a 4-string fretless, I'd take a new XL-2A over a new Streamline, just for the ergonomics. But you can't buy a new XL-2A fretless. In fact, on a given day, you may not be able to buy an XL-2A fretless at all. Status hasn't built nearly as many as Steinberger did, but they're still at it, they are more finely crafted instruments, and the used ones you find are generally in better shape than 1980s Steinbergers. If you can find a good 'berger, for goodness' sake, buy it and hang onto it. They are wonderful and unique, and there won't be any more of them. But if you want a superb compact fretless, either will do.

I was fortunate enough to find a mint condition XL2UF last year, serial #5694, manufactured in 1998. Apparently, this bass was created as an XL25UF, then converted to a four string XL2UF at a later date. Within a month of receiving the bass, I shipped it to genius fretless epoxy artist HG Thor, who is working his magic on this classic instrument. I sent him the unlined fretless neck of my Kubicki Factor bass in 2006, and his work was exquisite. His proprietary technique is classified, but it's comparable to the Diamondkote polyester finish of the Pedulla Buzz basses.
 
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Odd question: lately I've been having trouble with E strings going dead within a couple of weeks even with different brands. Could it be the string adapter? I try to be careful and not over tighten, only enough pressure to hold the string in place without slipping and losing tune. It happens on both XL2 and XQ2. I've had both my basses for over twenty years and this hasn't happened before. Just bad luck or something else?
 
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Odd question: lately I've been having trouble with E strings going dead within a couple of weeks even with different brands. Could it be the string adapter? I try to be careful and not over tighten, only enough pressure to hold the string in place without slipping and losing tune. It happens on both XL2 and XQ2. I've had both my basses for over twenty years and this hasn't happened before. Just bad luck or something else?

Perhaps acquiring a new XL or XQ?

Jk, have you looked into the jaws? Maybe they’re ready to be replaced
 
Hihat, just what string adapter are you using? If it creates an unnaturally sharp break angle, I could see it damaging a string with a thick, rigid core. I still use double-ball strings on my XL2A. Can you send a photo of the adapted E-string?
 
I hadn't known that Steinberger sold one - though it makes perfect sense. Do you mean this:
Steinberg STEINBERGER XL4 BASS STRINGS ADAPTER | Web4Music - EN ?
If so, doesn't look like there's much of a break angle, but I can see what you mean about tightening down too hard on the hex screw potentially messing with the string core. Is the element making contact with the string (don't know if that's the end of the screw or if the screw is pushing a plate or a saddle) spreading the pressure along the string as much as possible?
 
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from the steinberger catalog
adapter.JPG
 
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So I've owned my XL-25 for a couple of months and as it turned out, it needed a bit of TLC. I guess not surprising for a 34 year old bass. I was having a devil of a time getting new strings to tune up properly. As it turned out, the jaws and assemblies in the bridge were pretty shot. Luckily, Headless USA carries replacements, so I ordered 5 new ones. The fine people at The Bass Shop here in Seattle took apart the bridge and reassembled it with the new jaws. Now it's good as new.

One quick aside. I'm very lucky to have a world class bass store that is just over a mile from where I live. Really cool people own and work there.

Bones
 
Hi guys, sorry for the cross posting here and in headless club 3d.
I'm looking to buy a Stein XP2.
I'm lefty, I would like to invert the strings, upside down, without doing irreversible mods.
I'm sure the bridge is not an issue, you can eventually change saddles position, if it is required, but what about the headpiece?
The headpiece grooves are equal in width or are different form one to another? The G string headpiece groove should fit the E string, and vice versa.
I wouldn't want modify irreversible the bass, to maintain the originality of the instrument, and maintain the value on the market.

do you have any experiences on this?
 
I'm looking to buy a Stein XP2.
I'm lefty, I would like to invert the strings, upside down, without doing irreversible mods.
I'm sure the bridge is not an issue, you can eventually change saddles position, if it is required, but what about the headpiece?
The headpiece grooves are equal in width or are different form one to another? The G string headpiece groove should fit the E string, and vice versa.
I read your message and for my curiosity I tried it on my XL2 with double ball strings set: it works!
However, headpiece grooves are NOT equal in width, so if you are planning to use single ball strings with an adapter, for sure the E string won't fit in to the headpiece of G string.
XL2-reverse.jpg


In short: before buying the bass ask politely the seller to do a test like I did ;)

Spero di esserti stato utile, un saluto.
 
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By coincidence, changed strings on my Pedulla yesterday and thought I’d try some DR Sunbeams instead of the usual D’Addario nickel wounds. Inside the package is this:
D8EB7B58-127C-42E2-92E1-424520F91EED.jpeg

I can see how this could be tough to reconcile with the Steinberger adapter.
 

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