Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out

[CL400Peavey]

I normally don't pay for just a string change, unless it's an older bass that I just acquired and want a pro set of eyes to look it over. Since the nut had to be filed and there would be some big adjustments to the truss rod I didn't feel like doing it myself. If I had an actual work bench to work on guitars I'd probably never take mine in, but I don't really have room for one in our current house.

Then again, when it's only $30 and it's a local mom and pop shop who supports our band and hooks us up, I don't mind feeding into the local economy.

Yep, that is where I am at too. I usually check all my intonation/action stuff a few days before every gig as humidity here is a b!tch.

 

[Lazarus.Bird]

Gents with Bluebeards, what settings you running? I am just not bonding with my BB on bass lately, think it is just a matter of knob tweaking though.

Volume around 2:00, the other two knobs rolled all the way off.

 

[Squanch72]

volume around 11, tone around 1-2, fuzz pretty much maxed.

I am running close settings except I run the fuzz about 3:00. I think it is the high output pups in the Forever bass as they seem to not play nice with the Bluebeard or the Joyo Ultimate Drive, I can fart those pedals out. Need pick up a spare bass or get the JazzBird built for comparison. Maybe I will press the active bass button in on the Terror tonight to cut some dB's.

 

[beebassdude]

How many of you guys pay for a set up when its just a change of strings? I can see paying for some work if you need the nut replaced, but the rest of the neck and bridge set up I can do pretty quickly.

only setup ive ever paid for was with my bee bass because it has 2 truss rods and i wasnt super comfortable with getting them set right. anything else i do on my own.

 

[Squanch72]

Volume around 2:00, the other two knobs rolled all the way off.

Wow, interesting, sometimes I do turn the fuzz all the way down on guitar, but I will try that with the tone knob.

 

[beebassdude]

I am running close settings except I run the fuzz about 3:00. I think it is the high output pups in the Forever bass as they seem to not play nice with the Bluebeard or the Joyo Ultimate Drive, I can fart those pedals out. Need pick up a spare bass or get the JazzBird built for comparison. Maybe I will press the active bass button in on the Terror tonight to cut some dB's.

ive rolled the fuzz down before, but i use a blend with it as well so i like having a ton of fuzz in the signal and then putting some of the clean back in, that way i get the best of both.

 

[Squanch72]

ive rolled the fuzz down before, but i use a blend with it as well so i like having a ton of fuzz in the signal and then putting some of the clean back in, that way i get the best of both.

Yeah I think I need to invest in one of those master clean blend pedals.

 

[Squanch72]

I do my own setups for years now. There is a guy in Williamsburg that is a master as setups though. When I bought my Warwick Corvette I had him do it and I think I do a damn good job with setups but that dude somehow can do feather touch low action with no buzz whatsoever though I think Warwicks have a pretty flat radius so maybe that was part of it. If I had a tricky guitar or bass making me scratch my head I would take it to him for sure.

 

[Ron Now]

Certain basses I used to do myself, but a lot of my vintage stuff I would bring to a tech. I had a dude that was super affordable and did amazing work, He worked on my 78 P-bass, 76 Ric, 78 Rd all a few times. Also set up my dad's 67 SG at some point.

 

[beebassdude]

Yeah I think I need to invest in one of those master clean blend pedals.

barge concepts make awesome ones, you can find em cheap on here. i think sam was selling one, but they rule.

 

[The_Janitor]

I just downloaded some schematics for blend pedals the other day. That's going to be one of my first projects once we're all moved in. I have everything I need except the enclosure and a piece of veroboard. Should be a cheap and easy project.

 

[hydrohydra]

So say I wanted to go from a 126. To a 120., do you guys think I'll need to adjust my three point bridge for proper action and that will be the end of it or so you think you need to adjust my trust rod for intonation because of the gauge difference ?

 

[Pelham Bleu]

I was thinking for tonights ric experiment, chromes. I got a set with some decent life left.

When's your gig up in my neck o' the woods?

 

[Squanch72]

So say I wanted to go from a 126. To a 120., do you guys think I'll need to adjust my three point bridge for proper action and that will be the end of it or so you think you need to adjust my trust rod for intonation because of the gauge difference ?

I don't adjust the truss rod for intonation just for seasonal changes from the weather once action is set. I think you may just have to tweak the saddle height of the bridge for the string up a little if it buzzes or down if it is too high for comfort. I like to drop saddle height till I get buzz then back the other way till it stops buzzing. Then adjust the saddle for intonation if it is off. You can check truss rod height at the E string by putting a capo right over the first fret, then pressing down the E string like at the 15 fret or even higher then trying to slide a pick in between the 8th fret and the E string. I like to just get a little resistance on the pick.

 

[Lazarus.Bird]

You may need to adjust the truss rod because of both greater tension and larger gauge, meaning the string will be closer to the frets at the nut and the end of the neck which could cause some fret buzz. Intonation will also need slightly adjusted.

 

[Pelham Bleu]

Mock-up of machete board. There was a doctor Q on it for a minute but wasn't digging it. I'm still missing something.

How's the PWB after phaser, do you ever run them at the same time?

 

[Lazarus.Bird]

Wow, interesting, sometimes I do turn the fuzz all the way down on guitar, but I will try that with the tone knob.

It's the mud butt, or monkey butt, or something like that setting. @eyeballkid and I like to argue over who used it first.

 

[CL400Peavey]

So say I wanted to go from a 126. To a 120., do you guys think I'll need to adjust my three point bridge for proper action and that will be the end of it or so you think you need to adjust my trust rod for intonation because of the gauge difference ?

I check the neck relief for balance on a heavier gauge string. And then check the intonation, and if necessary adjust the bridge.

 

[Squanch72]

So say I wanted to go from a 126. To a 120., do you guys think I'll need to adjust my three point bridge for proper action and that will be the end of it or so you think you need to adjust my trust rod for intonation because of the gauge difference ?

You are rocking a Gibby bridge but this may still be helpful for you. Kind of long and you have to just weed through it some but shows checking truss rod, intonation, etc.
Invalid Link Removed

 

[hydrohydra]

I don't adjust the truss rod for intonation just for seasonal changes from the weather once action is set. I think you may just have to tweak the saddle height of the bridge for the string up a little if it buzzes or down if it is too high for comfort. I like to drop saddle height till I get buzz then back the other way till it stops buzzing. Then adjust the saddle for intonation if it is off. You can check truss rod height at the E string by putting a capo right over the first fret, then pressing down the E string like at the 15 fret or even higher then trying to slide a pick in between the 8th fret and the E string. I like to just get a little resistance on the pick.

You may need to adjust the truss rod because of both greater tension and larger gauge, meaning the string will be closer to the frets at the nut and the end of the neck which could cause some fret buzz. Intonation will also need slightly adjusted.

Thanks for pointers guys about to give it a go, I've had these nickel plated slinkies on my Hondo for like 6 months which means they probably died like 4 months ago :b