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Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out

Here's the pic of the body with the coat of ivory black artist oil on it. Letting it dry for about a week and then I will start layering the coats of tru oil over it. A pic of the test piece, which last night I put a coat of tru oil on it to make sure it will really work. It rubbed the slightest excess artist oil off but didn't remove any dye from the wood, so it will work out fine. And also a pic of Bubbles the Cocker Spaniel/Pomeranian mutt puppy just because he rocks.
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That looks pretty good man, can't wait to see it finished. I considered using some of the tinted Briwax we have to finish a pine body. I did a weird little sample piece to try it out before, with some distressing techniques...

photobucket-59963-1363208743857_zps193893da.jpg



I wanna cuddle with that puppy.
 
That looks pretty good man, can't wait to see it finished. I considered using some of the tinted Briwax we have to finish a pine body. I did a weird little sample piece to try it out before, with some distressing techniques...

photobucket-59963-1363208743857_zps193893da.jpg



I wanna cuddle with that puppy.

That looks cool. After I saw how the stain came out I kind of wished I distressed the wood. I think if I ever need more chairs or tables in the house I will buy form one of those unfinished furniture places so I can mess around with the artist oil and tru oil finishes more. Yeah if I didn't have a house full of dogs or if the ol lady would let me rehome one of them I would keep Bubbles for sure.
 
That looks cool. After I saw how the stain came out I kind of wished I distressed the wood. I think if I ever need more chairs or tables in the house I will buy form one of those unfinished furniture places so I can mess around with the artist oil and tru oil finishes more. Yeah if I didn't have a house full of dogs or if the ol lady would let me rehome one of them I would keep Bubbles for sure.

I wonder if you can do a wash coat or wood conditioner or something before using dye. I know that's pretty standard practice for staining lighter woods with a darker color, helps everything come out more evenly. I've been leaning farther and farther towards just embracing styles that accentuate flaws and making them a feature, instead of covering them. Not "relic" though, I'm not so much into the making new stuff look beat up, but I do like the "rustic" look.
 
I wonder if you can do a wash coat or wood conditioner or something before using dye. I know that's pretty standard practice for staining lighter woods with a darker color, helps everything come out more evenly. I've been leaning farther and farther towards just embracing styles that accentuate flaws and making them a feature, instead of covering them. Not "relic" though, I'm not so much into the making new stuff look beat up, but I do like the "rustic" look.

I did a lot of sanding but if you look close you can see where there are some lines where they joined the pieces of body wood together, and the marks from the machine work. The dye highlighted those imperfections so some people would probably not dig it since it's not perfect but I kind of dig it. I really wanted a see through color and this made it pretty simple. Since the oil is linseed oil based it is like the wood gets sealed along with being dyed so not sure if that would work with the conditioner or not so I skipped that step. I don't even think I will do two coats just start layering the tru oil on top. I also found out that Murry's Beeswax for hair is also great for lubricating wood screws LOL.
murray's beeswax.png
 
I did a lot of sanding but if you look close you can see where there are some lines where they joined the pieces of body wood together, and the marks from the machine work. The dye highlighted those imperfections so some people would probably not dig it since it's not perfect but I kind of dig it. I really wanted a see through color and this made it pretty simple. Since the oil is linseed oil based it is like the wood gets sealed along with being dyed so not sure if that would work with the conditioner or not so I skipped that step. I don't even think I will do two coats just start layering the tru oil on top. I also found out that Murry's Beeswax for hair is also great for lubricating wood screws LOL.
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Some thinned down shellac to use as a wash coat first might work with dye. Usually you brush it on, raise the grain, then knock it down with some sanding and do that until it saturates. Then the color soaks in or lays on top evenly. I always did the same thing with shellac based primer for pine and fir window sash, so they wouldn't look all rough and sloppy when painted by customers later.

I've had the same tube of soft wax for something like 15 years. Works great for lubricating screws when going into hardwood. I can't even remember where I got it anymore, that'll be an issue when it finally runs out lol.
 
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Some thinned down shellac to use as a wash coat first might work with dye. Usually you brush it on, raise the grain, then knock it down with some sanding and do that until it saturates. Then the color soaks in or lays on top evenly. I always did the same thing with shellac based primer for pine and fir window sash, so they wouldn't look all rough and sloppy when painted by customers later.

I've had the same tube of soft wax for something like 15 years. Works great for lubricating screws when going into hardwood. I can't even remember where I go it anymore, that'll be an issue when it finally runs out lol.

Yeah I love the look of the Warwick finishes so I was going for the unfilled grain, then dye colored, then waxed at the end. I may just skip the Yamaha and find an unfinished 5 string pj body and slap a Mighty Mite neck on it, throw in a set of Dimarzios, and call it a day. Yeah I saw a video of a guy using beeswax to lube the screws and thought duh my Murray's, $1.50 at Dollar General and it holds my nappy for a white boy in check, how could I go wrong LOL. I bet in would keep a pic on your finger at a gig too it's so sticky.
 
I really love the way it sounds with those settings. For awhile there I was running into some issues getting too much of an angry bees sound but then I realized it was because I was knob tweaking to compensate for some very dead strings. Once I replaced them my glorious tone was back. It's an epic combination of thickness, mix cutting, fuzz, and clarity.
 
Well, the Kadavar show yesterday was pretty cool.
The drummer was a beast.
Bass player played a sweet rig of HiWatts, Ampegs and Peavey cabs with a Rick. I sling my guitar low as I've got pretty long hands, but if I took this guy's Rick, I'd have it somewhere around my knees :D. He was like 7' tall, but it was very low slung anyway.
Here's a pic of the rig I took after the concert. I have a feeling that it wasn't all plugged in because the club wasn't so big and I can still hear.
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shaging amazing rig, oh my god.
 
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