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Summer Build Off 2024 : Red Hot Cherry Popper

#41
Dark Horse said:
It’s gonna be a beauty… I think any of us would proudly play the heck out of it !!
Which tint are you using, btw ?
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Thanks for the kind comment.

The tint I use is a Canadian product so might not be available everywhere. But it’s a very common product that other manufacturers offer as well:

Water based stain - SamaN - Stains and varnishes

I didn’t know exactly how it was going to turn into but it’s gona have an Alain Caron's look obviously !
 
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#46
Gervais Cote said:
Next step done : clear finish of the body.

5 layers of Tru-Oil applied with a rag and buffing with steel wool no. 0000 between each layer. That gave me the satin finish I was looking for so all good. Seems to be more shiny than the neck though so hopefully, a touch of lemon oil on the neck will match the luster.

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Great job!

What I do when I use lemon oil, I apply a big layer of it, let it soak for several hours, then I use micro mesh 4000/6000/12000 to polish the surface with the remaining oil. Gives a nice shine!!
 
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#48
Re: lemon oil: It depends on exactly which product you’re using.

Citrus will strip away the natural oils of the wood, so don’t do that. Look for something that’s mineral-oil based, and contains a minimum (preferably zero) amount of real lemon.

I would just use the same Tru-Oil you’re using for the body. And something like StewMac Fingerboard Oil for the fretboard.
 
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#49
ctmullins said:
Re: lemon oil: It depends on exactly which product you’re using.
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This. I wish the community would stop using lemon oil and recommend mineral oil instead. The type of "lemon oil" we want is basically just lemon scented mineral oil. If you want to use a non drying oil, cut out the guess work and use mineral oil. The purest and cheapest is the one sold as a laxative at the drug store. Its just pure real mineral oil with no additives that might hurt your wood in the long run.

I personally prefer a drying oil. I've used tung and boiled linseed. It stays nicer longer than non drying oils.
 
#50
ctmullins said:
Re: lemon oil: It depends on exactly which product you’re using.

Citrus will strip away the natural oils of the wood, so don’t do that. Look for something that’s mineral-oil based, and contains a minimum (preferably zero) amount of real lemon.

I would just use the same Tru-Oil you’re using for the body. And something like StewMac Fingerboard Oil for the fretboard.
Click to expand...
My lemon oil is from D’Adario and contains a mineral oil. So far I got good results on my rosewood fretboards as it seems to protect pretty well and it darkens the wood.
 
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#51
ddm0502 said:
This. I wish the community would stop using lemon oil and recommend mineral oil instead. The type of "lemon oil" we want is basically just lemon scented mineral oil. If you want to use a non drying oil, cut out the guess work and use mineral oil. The purest and cheapest is the one sold as a laxative at the drug store. Its just pure real mineral oil with no additives that might hurt your wood in the long run.

I personally prefer a drying oil. I've used tung and boiled linseed. It stays nicer longer than non drying oils.
Click to expand...
Mine is exactly a lemon scented mineral oil.
 
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#57
Final installation of the neck. E and G strings are aligned so went ahead with the other strings as well.
Looks like a Warmoth neck in a Warmoth body is a perfect match.
Nice slide fit, no sanding required and alignment is bang on without any gaps in the neck pocket.

 

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