Looking forward to your review, and pics, when you get it. But why do you feel the need to replace the bridge?
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
SX Ursa 6-string Jazz bass
- Thread starter Figbassist75
- Start date
Looking forward to your review, and pics, when you get it. But why do you feel the need to replace the bridge?
I know you're not asking me, but let me share my 2 reasons why I'd like to change the bridge on mine:
1) I have a .136 B string in there. I drilled a larger hole and the B goes through a bit tight but goes through... However, the string tends to twist as you wind it up. Also, it's a pain to take the B string out for various reasons. I'd like the convenience of a quick release bridge.
2) Moving the B through A saddles back for intonation BENT the bridge base! The tension appeared to be too much and the string loading end of the bridge actually separated from the body by a couple of millimeters... I had to remove the bridge, use a vice to get the base all flat again, move the saddles ALL THE WAY BACK, tune to pitch, and then proceed with intonation by adjusting the saddles forward. That did the trick. However, I just noticed that the base plate is bending back up... I have it strung with TI Flats, so the tension isn't really that much compared to other flats.
I wouldn't change the bridge were it not for the two reasons above.
Due to the hand finished nature of SX basses, the replacement pickguard will probably have to be custom made. Pickguardian is one company that makes customs.
You could always order material from GuitarFetish.com and do it yourself.
I'm not sure how you'd do a 3-way switch and a series/parallel switch (I'd have to do some drawings). And honestly, are you sure you want a 3-way switch? I find the most interesting tones in a Jazz style bass often favor one pickup over the other rather than both on full. Just my 2 cents though.
I agree, a three way switch limits the tones you can get. I think most people play with one of the volumes slightly down on a J, which eliminates the small mid scoop that they have when both pickups are wide open. I know I often (but not always) do.
Pickguardian is where I had my pickguards made. Since each SX guard is slightly different, best is to take off original guard and send it to Tony at Pickguardian and tell him to copy it in whatever you pick. Personally, in spite of the added expense I REALLY love the boutique look that a new fancy guard gives an SX!
As for a 3 way switch, I mod lots of mine with a 5-way switch: Mute, neck only, both series, both parallel, bridge only. That works quite nicely. I don't use the "only" positions much because of single coil hum. You can get the 5 way switch from Stew-Mac.
But I haven't quite decided if switching is OK or if I want blending. So a few SX were moded with Vol/blend/tone where you pull up volume knob to go to series mode. But there is no real decent circuit that does what you want. In short the vol/blend works OK in parallel, but if you go to series the blend does not work so well. It tends to act more like a three-way switch for the pickups. Blend action is EXTREMELY fast at ends of rotation.
So what circuit to go with is still a question in my mind. Vol/vol/tone is my LEAST favorite arrangement, however.
BassBenj
If you recall, would you mind sharing with TB what you paid for the tortoise pick guards you ordered for your SX Ursa 6? Many thanks!
Hey guys,
Due (pretty much exclusively) to this thread I ordered an Ursa 2 MN 6 3TS and received it on Tuesday. If y'all don't mind, I'm going to post my five-day impression of it so far (along with some relevant pictures) which is basically a polite way to say I'm going to be highjacking this thread for a bit
Hold onto your butts.
Due (pretty much exclusively) to this thread I ordered an Ursa 2 MN 6 3TS and received it on Tuesday. If y'all don't mind, I'm going to post my five-day impression of it so far (along with some relevant pictures) which is basically a polite way to say I'm going to be highjacking this thread for a bit
Hold onto your butts.
This was the only part of dealing with Rondo that I wasn't happy with - the packaging. This is not a shipping box. This is the box that suppliers put inside the shipping box (hence the shape.) Outside of a single piece of foam and a couple pieces of cardboard there was virtually no drop protection. The bass was well-wrapped, and had the gigbag laying on top of it, but one good thump to the bottom could've done some serious damage.
The gigbag is... a gigbag. If I'd picked it up for $12.99 in a bargain bin I'd be quite happy. It's no Levy's, but it'll keep the dust off it.
One of the zippers broke the first time I used it.
Thankfully she arrived undamaged. And man oh man is she beautiful.
I hate this headstock shape on their four and five stringers, but I think on the six it works beautifully.
I hate this headstock shape on their four and five stringers, but I think on the six it works beautifully.
There were a few flaws, however...
The nut is a mess. Oddly enough the slots are fine, but it definitely spent some quality time with the file.
SERIOUS overspray on the headstock. I literally had to break the truss-rod nuts loose from the poly, which required a good bit of force to get the wrench in there to begin with.
Unfortunately, whoever tightened up the hardware on this got a wee bit... let's say "overzealous." But Kurt being Kurt sent out replacements the day I emailed him, and now everything is nice and shiny.
Again... overzealous. Thankfully I'm very pleased with how the pickups are balanced, but this could become very annoying down the line.
I'm not actually sure I've ever seen this before. Thankfully both truss rods seem to work fine, but still. Weird.
The whole back of the headstock was covered in some kind of oily substance. I first noticed it on the wood and thought it was a scratch, then I noticed it on the tuners as well. It all came off with (a non-insignificant amount of) polish, but there were some swirls that really scared me.
Ok, I admit this is a pet peeve that's rather particular to me.
There'd be no point to three-ply pickguards if the edges weren't beveled. That's what makes them look great. HOWEVER. Where the pickguard meets the control plate a sharp metal corner is exposed. This isn't a knock against the Ursa in particular since it seems to be endemic to most all J-bass designs, but COME ON PEOPLE, IT'S 2014. WE CAN FIX THIS.
The nut is a mess. Oddly enough the slots are fine, but it definitely spent some quality time with the file.
SERIOUS overspray on the headstock. I literally had to break the truss-rod nuts loose from the poly, which required a good bit of force to get the wrench in there to begin with.
Unfortunately, whoever tightened up the hardware on this got a wee bit... let's say "overzealous." But Kurt being Kurt sent out replacements the day I emailed him, and now everything is nice and shiny.
Again... overzealous. Thankfully I'm very pleased with how the pickups are balanced, but this could become very annoying down the line.
I'm not actually sure I've ever seen this before. Thankfully both truss rods seem to work fine, but still. Weird.
The whole back of the headstock was covered in some kind of oily substance. I first noticed it on the wood and thought it was a scratch, then I noticed it on the tuners as well. It all came off with (a non-insignificant amount of) polish, but there were some swirls that really scared me.
Ok, I admit this is a pet peeve that's rather particular to me.
There'd be no point to three-ply pickguards if the edges weren't beveled. That's what makes them look great. HOWEVER. Where the pickguard meets the control plate a sharp metal corner is exposed. This isn't a knock against the Ursa in particular since it seems to be endemic to most all J-bass designs, but COME ON PEOPLE, IT'S 2014. WE CAN FIX THIS.
Ignoring these fit and finish issues, the setup was very, very impressive. It arrived set up low and buzz-free. I'd rate it medium-low, but set my action so low you can fret it by glancing at it sideways, so your ratings may vary.
And I'm sorry, I don't have a measurement device accurate enough to give a good reading of the action, but here's what the B string looks like on the first, 12th, and 20th fret. I took the photos with my camera as parallel as possible to the plane of the fretboard, but photography is definitely not my specialty.
And it's like that across the whole fretboard. I'd prefer the C string to be a wee bit lower, but I think I'm just being spoiled by the B through G strings.
One of the main selling points for me was the dual truss rods. I've seen so many beautiful sixer's cut down before their time because the neck decided to warp juuust enough to make a proper setup impossible. (Frankly I think dual truss rods should be standard on all basses, but that's another discussion for another day.)
Out of the box, the neck was perfect. No warp, no humps, nada. When I tried to dial in a zero relief setup a few fret imperfections revealed themselves, but I freely admit that's asking too much.
The intonation was flawless (yes, seriously) and the saddles followed the radius of the fretboard nicely. And you can see the chrome has a wonderful "pop."
And I'm sorry, I don't have a measurement device accurate enough to give a good reading of the action, but here's what the B string looks like on the first, 12th, and 20th fret. I took the photos with my camera as parallel as possible to the plane of the fretboard, but photography is definitely not my specialty.
And it's like that across the whole fretboard. I'd prefer the C string to be a wee bit lower, but I think I'm just being spoiled by the B through G strings.
One of the main selling points for me was the dual truss rods. I've seen so many beautiful sixer's cut down before their time because the neck decided to warp juuust enough to make a proper setup impossible. (Frankly I think dual truss rods should be standard on all basses, but that's another discussion for another day.)
Out of the box, the neck was perfect. No warp, no humps, nada. When I tried to dial in a zero relief setup a few fret imperfections revealed themselves, but I freely admit that's asking too much.
The intonation was flawless (yes, seriously) and the saddles followed the radius of the fretboard nicely. And you can see the chrome has a wonderful "pop."
A few random notes:
They've increased the size of the headstock logo, which I think fits well with the large headstock.
The logo even looks good on the neckplate. (Also, these are the only screws that weren't stripped.)
The one piece alder body really is one piece. It's such a minor detail, but it increases the aesthetics in such an incredible way.
(And yeah, it may sound better, yadda yadda yadda.)
They've increased the size of the headstock logo, which I think fits well with the large headstock.
The logo even looks good on the neckplate. (Also, these are the only screws that weren't stripped.)
The one piece alder body really is one piece. It's such a minor detail, but it increases the aesthetics in such an incredible way.
(And yeah, it may sound better, yadda yadda yadda.)
So yeah, thus ends my photographic review. I'll post my final thoughts later, but it's time for bed.
And a big thanks to all you TB'ers for encouraging me to buy this beast. It's not just a fantastic deal, but a great instrument on its own merits.
And a big thanks to all you TB'ers for encouraging me to buy this beast. It's not just a fantastic deal, but a great instrument on its own merits.
I don't mind, but I don't remember either! Pickguardian is here in town so I just trot over there with an SX pickguard and ask him to copy it for me in whatever material I pick out. (he will send you samples to ponder) Usually he just does it while I stand there. I pay him and take off.
I've done this so much I really don't remember. It depends on the material I think. And I'm sure it's more than the standard Fender pickguards you find around GC etc. even the expensive ones. Best is to just drop Pickguardian an email and get a quote.
PS. Suki is a really cool dog too!
You really mean the zipper, or the little tab that pulls the zipper? If the latter, medium or large paper clips are your friends... (Don't ask me how I know...)
Many here have addressed the b-string issue (stock strings are truly horrendous) might I fit a set of daddario lights on the bridge? That's 130-32...
