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Tailoring a Squier Affinity Jazz Bass... My build thread.

Somewhat busy tonight aside from shop time, however I did squeeze some shop time in... The neck pickup is done, resistance is verified, and double / triple checked the copper isn't making contact with anything conductive, and the non conductive adhesive faces anything that MIGHT be a problem...

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So the pair of them are sitting ready to install... Wish I had the time to attach the rest of it right now...

20150409_201526.jpg
 
Looking good man. Hopefully you'll have time this weekend to finish and get some good playing time in to enjoy all your work

I am working through the weekend, probably won't be able to finish it up, may get the shielding done...

Don't get me wrong, I would prefer to get and use the paint for this.
 
Finishing metallic is a tad different than finishing a solid color.

Use primer, sand that down, than MIST on the color coat (really light layers), so the metal particles in the finish won't flop over, resulting in a dull color. After misting multiple color coats, leave to dry. DO NOT SAND THE COLOR LAYER (as it will tear away the metal particles). Mist on some clear coats, leave to dry. Mist on more until you've got a sufficient thickness, and then a couple of full-blown clearcoats. Leave to dry, and sand that down, with ever finer sandpaper, and buff it. The key is to have enough clearcoat to get it buffed without buffing into the metallic colorlayer, but not too many clearcoats so it won't cure properly.
 
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Finishing metallic is a tad different than finishing a solid color.

Use primer, sand that down, than MIST on the color coat (really light layers), so the metal particles in the finish won't flop over, resulting in a dull color. After misting multiple color coats, leave to dry. DO NOT SAND THE COLOR LAYER (as it will tear away the metal particles). Mist on some clear coats, leave to dry. Mist on more until you've got a sufficient thickness, and then a couple of full-blown clearcoats. Leave to dry, and sand that down, with ever finer sandpaper, and buff it. The key is to have enough clearcoat to get it buffed without buffing into the metallic colorlayer, but not too many clearcoats so it won't cure properly.
I appreciate the advice, as I'm going to be refinishing a couple of basses with metallic paint.

And to be clear, I did not sand the color coats on my black headstock either. Just the clear coat.
 
I decided to go ahead and order the MG 838 Conductive paint / coating to do the cavities... I am figuring that will be less hassle than trying to mangle the tape...

So the scope of the project has changed a hair, not too much but here goes...

#1. Upgrade pickups to Squier Vintage Modified Duncan Designed pickups.
#2. Shield pickups with copper foil, cavities with conductive paint. Need to figure out how to rig the ground between cavities, but I will figure it out somehow.Pickup shielding done, pending delivery of conductive paint.
#3. Upgrade bridge to Classic Vibe 60s High Mass bridge. Install pending. Have the bridge, Waiting to get the paint to rip it all down and do the work in one fell swoop.
#4. Swap in Classic Vibe pickguard. Pending delivery and fitment, or I just wasted a few bucks... One way or the other :-)
#5. Don't forget the Grolsch cap seal strap locks!
 
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If you haven't mounted the CV "high mass" bridge yet, go check out a cv hanging on a rack in any music store, there will likely be a slight gap between the body and the thick bottom end of the cv bridge because the strings are pulling it up.
The chrome plated brass isn't any thicker and isn't nearly as rigid as the steel bridge. The Badass bridge is huge compared to the cv bridge for a reason. Brass, like aluminum needs to be nearly three times as thick as steel to be as strong.
If you want to lose sustain, go ahead and put that flimsy cv bridge on there and send me the steel one. You could go with a Badass bridge, but why ad all that weight?

Don't get me wrong, I love cv's, have two and would like to have a few more, but those fake high mass bridges are not what they appear to be.
 
If you haven't mounted the CV "high mass" bridge yet, go check out a cv hanging on a rack in any music store, there will likely be a slight gap between the body and the thick bottom end of the cv bridge because the strings are pulling it up.
The chrome plated brass isn't any thicker and isn't nearly as rigid as the steel bridge. The Badass bridge is huge compared to the cv bridge for a reason. Brass, like aluminum needs to be nearly three times as thick as steel to be as strong.
If you want to lose sustain, go ahead and put that flimsy cv bridge on there and send me the steel one. You could go with a Badass bridge, but why ad all that weight?

Don't get me wrong, I love cv's, have two and would like to have a few more, but those fake high mass bridges are not what they appear to be.

Never noticed that on any of the CVs in stores... And the brass is simply in the saddles. Can you dig up pics of what you are talking about? I'm curious... I can't seem to find any other mentions of Squier High Mass bridges having problems except for one guy mentioning he had problems getting his intonation right...
 
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Never noticed that on any of the CVs in stores... And the brass is simply in the saddles. Can you dig up pics of what you are talking about? I'm curious...
I removed the bridges from both my cv 60's Jazz and my cv 60's Precision and replaced them with standard steel Fender bridges so I could install the chrome bridge covers because the cv bridges do not fit under the Fender covers. Before I finished writing my previous post, I put a magnet to one of the old cv bridges and it did not stick. I could be wrong, they might be nothing more than pot metal, however the magnet did not stick. If they are simply pot metal, then brass would certainly be better. Dang, now I have to go put one of those flimsy things against a grinder, I'll let you know if it looks like brass or not in a few.
 
I'm not wedded to the CV bridge exactly, but then again, I'm also not liking the look of the stocker either, I am not averse to getting a Fender High Mass if it will take the brass saddles.

I am not sure what kind of metal the base is made from, but from the weight of it, I doubt it is brass, and yes, I did magnet mine too to see if it will stick, no joy...
 
Why not put those brass saddles on the stocker and put a Fender ashtray cover over it?

I don't smoke, so I really have no use for an ashtray?

All kidding aside, The bridge / pickup cover look isn't my style. More power to ya if you dig em, but I have no real interest in them.

I would swap the saddles out if I had the slightest inkling they would fit, but the CV saddles are a considerably larger diameter...
 
Okay so I heard back from Guitar Re-ranch, and the Burgundy Mist Metallic is out of stock, they are waiting for a new batch.

Just as a reminder, the OEM headstock logo looks like...

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The decal I am trying to source up for my bass looks like...

SquireJBHeadshot.jpg


I am NOT, and I repeat loudly NOT trying to pass off my Squier as a full priced Fender, I simply despise the truncated J-Bass decal, it looks all kinds of wrong to me... I would even be perfectly happy to affix the little Affinity Series decal in the round part of the end of the headstock. I am NOT trying to pass anything off as something it isn't. Like I mentioned before, I am simply trying to make MY bass, fit and play the way I want it to, sonically, ergonomically, and cosmetically.

It's been asked how visible the logo would be against a Burgundy Mist headstock face. I can only answer, I'm not sure, but I want to try. I believe it will look / contrast similarly to what is on the James Johston Signature Jazz Bass, at least that is the effect I am going for.

Looks like it is turning out that sourcing up the materials to refinish the headstock is being the hardest part so far.
Have you settled on your decal yet? I might have a nice Squier design for ya.
 
Have you settled on your decal yet? I might have a nice Squier design for ya.

Yeah, it's ordered, basically same as OEM, but with the name Jazz Bass spelled out instead of J-Bass. Just waiting for delivery...

What I ordered, should the vendor be able to fill it properly, will look like...

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