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TC Electronic RH750 ???!??
- Thread starter boriology101
- Start date
- Status
Jazzdogg
Less barking, more wagging!
How does the RH750 behave when you play an active bass with the bass boosted via the on-board pre-amp, or boost the low bass through a parametric EQ? Does the baked-in character of the amp attenuate low bass whether you want it too or not?
A couple of silly questions:
1. The Universal 100-240V~ 50/60 Hz (100 W @ 1/8 Power) means that I don't ever need to worry about the voltage wherever I go? Isn't that better than SMPS?
2. Is it 750w @ 4 ohm? So it will be about 375w @ 8 ohm?
Thanks a lot !!
1. The Universal 100-240V~ 50/60 Hz (100 W @ 1/8 Power) means that I don't ever need to worry about the voltage wherever I go? Isn't that better than SMPS?
2. Is it 750w @ 4 ohm? So it will be about 375w @ 8 ohm?
Thanks a lot !!
1. That's right, you don't need to worry; and that has nothing to do with SMPS, which this also presumably has.
2. It's actually limited to 236 watts at 4 and 8 ohms. There has been an awful lot of controversy regarding TCE power ratings on this this forum. There are probably two main take-home messages from this: 1. TCE should have done a lot more to explain their power management module at the time of the series release and not misrepresented their power specifications, and 2. power ratings mean very little with respect to loudness.
- Dec 18, 2000
- 13,201
- 340
- Disclosures
- greenboy designs: fEARful, bassic, dually, crazy88 etc
Any 15 Hz hardwire HPF would only be there as failure mode protection. That won't do diddly for MI speakers under normal use.
The DSP can do the rest. To see how it is one merely need look at the too-soon-forgotten (after only a couple of months) Bass Gear Mag tests. You'll see a 3 dB mid-bass bump at around 75 Hz, followed by a steep inbuilt drop that signifies serious HPFing. It's at a place that works for a lot of smaller-box bass cabs, but it's about an octave north of where a fEARful or barefaced Big Series cab would actually not get audibly gutted by it. Ironically, in those cases it's replacing extended but controlled bass with a baked-in bump that's fairly high-Q resonant.
Another irony is that since the entire incoming signal is always being massaged by DSP - it's "digital, ma! - a finely adjustable HPF or one with a few select choices could have easily been implemented.
Also the default FR itself is not especially reminiscent of a sealed cab simulation, so any tubeiness is more an effect of other non-linear components.
I hadn't quite forgotten the BGM tests, but I'll confess I didn't go back and read them again. That there's some good info'mayshun though, Greenie -- makes me think they could easily implement the amp I really want ....
Wow...i play my RH750 through an RS 212 (waiting for more 210's to be built!) and it is so LOUD at 2 or 3! i can't imagine cranking this puppy up so loud for a practice!!
Finally finished my rig. Sorry about the poor pic quality.
New band with one guitarist doing BIG dual guitar tunes.
Not wanting to be without a backup amp again (after my 450 went bang), I thought about a stereo rig.
I'll walk you through it.
Bass - Line 6 G30 - Ernie Ball jr Vol. Pedal - TCE Toneprint Flashback delay - stereo out to;
1. - TCE Toneprint Corona Chorus (mono out) - Petersland snake - DBX 363x Noise Gate Ch 1 - TCE RH 750 - TCE RS 212 and TCE RS 210. This is the "Bass amp".
2. - TCE Toneprint Corona Chorus (stereo out) - Micro Pog (set at octave above only) - Pedal snake - DBX 363X Ch 2 - TCE RH 450 - TCE RS 210. This is the "guitar amp".
I also use 2 x TCE foot switches.
Bass amp set 1 - Rick Bass, 2 - P Bass, 3 - Rick with tubetone grind.
Guitar amp set 1 Oct up loud, 2 - oct up soft, 3 - oct up and mega tubetone.
I've made the front and rear covers for the rack large enough to carry most of my cables and a DSE pwr conditioner filter in the rear. Not taking any more chances with dirty Western Australian power.
My pedal tote carries the board, snake, Bass stand and spare strings. Snake connections are scart. Snake is 8 x shielded cables.
On top is a typical guitar wall mount inverted and easily removable for hangin da Bass. Looks kinda flimsy in the photo but I wouldn't be hangin a Ric off it if it weren't solid.
This really is overkill but everywhere I go now I have a backup ready and needless to say, it sounds HUGE!
Slash's Slither with a wee bit of delay and the guitar rig an octave up is just unbelievable.
Zombie with mega tubetone up an octave - well.,,,
Amazingly, this is the first time I've seriously played with pedals and am diggin it.
Pete
New band with one guitarist doing BIG dual guitar tunes.
Not wanting to be without a backup amp again (after my 450 went bang), I thought about a stereo rig.
I'll walk you through it.
Bass - Line 6 G30 - Ernie Ball jr Vol. Pedal - TCE Toneprint Flashback delay - stereo out to;
1. - TCE Toneprint Corona Chorus (mono out) - Petersland snake - DBX 363x Noise Gate Ch 1 - TCE RH 750 - TCE RS 212 and TCE RS 210. This is the "Bass amp".
2. - TCE Toneprint Corona Chorus (stereo out) - Micro Pog (set at octave above only) - Pedal snake - DBX 363X Ch 2 - TCE RH 450 - TCE RS 210. This is the "guitar amp".
I also use 2 x TCE foot switches.
Bass amp set 1 - Rick Bass, 2 - P Bass, 3 - Rick with tubetone grind.
Guitar amp set 1 Oct up loud, 2 - oct up soft, 3 - oct up and mega tubetone.
I've made the front and rear covers for the rack large enough to carry most of my cables and a DSE pwr conditioner filter in the rear. Not taking any more chances with dirty Western Australian power.
My pedal tote carries the board, snake, Bass stand and spare strings. Snake connections are scart. Snake is 8 x shielded cables.
On top is a typical guitar wall mount inverted and easily removable for hangin da Bass. Looks kinda flimsy in the photo but I wouldn't be hangin a Ric off it if it weren't solid.
This really is overkill but everywhere I go now I have a backup ready and needless to say, it sounds HUGE!
Slash's Slither with a wee bit of delay and the guitar rig an octave up is just unbelievable.
Zombie with mega tubetone up an octave - well.,,,
Amazingly, this is the first time I've seriously played with pedals and am diggin it.
Pete
That does not have any impact, since again, the low end is kind of 'set' in the unit, via whatever circuitry they use. However, to my ear, it sounds like a hi pass set pretty high. Since I was given the software that allowed you to lower the hi pass filtering, and the amp got significantly deeper and wider down there, it again seems like a design goal (the vintage thing) versus any physical problem or shortcoming. It again tightens a cab up to give you that 'fridge' sort of experience, no matter what you are playing through, for better or worse.
I liked it quite a bit for some contexts.
Pretty Rig,
What are your settings for
"Bass amp set 1 - Rick Bass, 2 - P Bass, 3 - Rick with tubetone grind."
Thanks
What are your settings for
"Bass amp set 1 - Rick Bass, 2 - P Bass, 3 - Rick with tubetone grind."
Thanks
Wow...i play my RH750 through an RS 212 (waiting for more 210's to be built!) and it is so LOUD at 2 or 3! i can't imagine cranking this puppy up so loud for a practice!!
One of the things you can do to eliminate that big volume jump with the TC amps in the early travel of the master volume is to set the 'post EQ' volume lower. Mine came with that volume set at the max level from the factory, and the amp pretty much reached its peak volume at about 10 o'clock on the master (with the pre gain set appropriately just below clip).
Just go into 'shift mode' and bring that volume level down. That is a GREAT control, since you can either keep you presets all the same volume, even with significant EQ bumps or cuts or tubetone or compression or whatever, and also set on preset to be kind of a 'solo boost' if you so choose.
Neat amp, great design, massive volume output, and a very usable, if a bit attenuated and compressed low end.
Wow...i play my RH750 through an RS 212 (waiting for more 210's to be built!) and it is so LOUD at 2 or 3! i can't imagine cranking this puppy up so loud for a practice!!
Yeah I run my gain as low as I can and fairly (knob) flat EQ in order to coax the most clean signal I can from it, so my master settings are higher than most likely.Depends on gain an eq settings.
I crave a more hifi sound, but more than I probably need. Meaning I like the sound of clean clean bass when its by itself, but when I go back and listen to it in a band mix I actually prefer the RH750 tones a bit as they fit in a little better, more organic in the mix I guess than a giant clean bass tone.
The basses I'm playing (Carvin SB's w/ DR HiBeams) produce a pretty big clean tone on their own anyway, the RH750's baked in attempt at vintage sounds seems to offset that well. Not to mention I've always prefered a tighter bass sound (sealed cabs, 10s) so the low low roll off doesn't stick out to me as much, in fact it might be part of the reason I like the amp.
That said I am interested to hear a setup like a big clean GK with a Fearful type cab to see what I am missing. If there was a way to try those cabs on a trial basis I would probably do it but all of the ones I've see are either DIY or no returns.
That was one of the options that those of us who were involved in the testing of the 'next generation' RH amp front end were allowed to consider. While an adjustable lo pass filter was tops on everyone's list (and which they did impliment as the 'tweetertone' on the RH750 (nice), the adjustable hi pass filtering option did not really rise to the top of the wish list.
Maybe due to the way their limiting and power amp execution worked, but at least through most cabs I tested it with, the optimum setting for full, usable, punchy bass was basically where they had it set. However, like any design decision, that results in it sounding better with some cabs than others.
The Mesa M6/9 has the exact 'opposite' issue.... hi passing (or whatever) set so low that it destroys most cabs when pushed (i.e., massive cone pistoning at moderate volumes). However, with the 3015LF loaded executions, it works quite well, even though I believe it would work better with some sort of external hi passing. I enjoy heads that sit kind of in between these two low end extremes.
Anyway, nice head, and 'it is what it is'. Works great for those who want a bit more vintage tone in their entire rig (tight, warm, a bit of pleasant midrange distortion, and a touch of 'give' when really pushed).
Jarrett - thats exactly what I have learned. I hugely prefer a more hifi sound when practicing than rh750 even with tweetertone all the way up can deliver. Therefore I prefer my GK MB 500 at home .... BUT when giggin or practicing with my band the RH750 is brilliant. The tone cuts very well through the mix and it is very easy to adjust to get rid of finger noise / clicks.
IME it is also very easy to adjust to adapt to different rooms / acoustics .... LOVE IT with band - but it is not "my thing" when playing alone
+1 Put another way, in many mixes and contexts, deep low end in a bass rig is not particularly useful. A nice upper bass/low mid presence, and some musical warmth in the mids, and a present but not zingy top end can emulate many classic bass tones we love in recordings in a live setting very nicely.
So you're saying my RH750 can be pushed even lower for my B String with a new software???
I'd really enjoy that!!!
Can you tell more about it?
No. Since the RH heads have a true 'digital' preamp, the preamp is voiced using software. This is done at the factory. There were a few of us on TB who volunteered to evaluate different tweaks and options for the next generation RH (which became the 750), and were given a special test unit with software interface, and the voicing software used at the factory (i.e., the software interface used to create the Staccato, etc.).
Who knows if they will eventually come out with a unit that is 'user tweakable' with the software. However, with the massive amount of tweaking you can already do, most of us felt that would be of very limited interest to the vast majority of customers. However, the tweaks they did make and that we recommended (i.e., the compressor on its own 'no shift' knob, and the ability to bypass that hard treble filtering) make the RH750 quite a nice improvement over the RH450 (in addition to a bit more volume capability).
Oh... I only wanted more low end
Any trick there?
I may contact TC about it for future products heh.
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