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The Acoustic Club

#3,301
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#3,302
bottomend! said:
Great combo right here! I'm assuming you're running the rig in Ric-O-Sound mode right? With the 470 as the high end it'll be a beast through that 104 cab. Becareful with those speakers because they can take a fair amount of lows but they can definitely blow.. and reconing is not cheap!
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put jbl in the 301 much louder and brighter peavey black widows i 126.
 
#3,303
Hey everybody. I just scored a 301 cab with a good CV speaker, original I'm figuring. I have the 370 head also, but it's not working at all- the light goes on when you power up, but the only hint of anything at all is a feint 'essence of signal' from the vents of the amp, when I put my face up to it and pay close attention. The insides look clean. I don't know if it's just cold-solder joints or something more dire.

I'm looking into the head- a tech I know says to be prepared to shell out- as the old coupler-caps will almost surely want replacing, else I may be dealing with it as they go over time, one at a time...

Anyway, until I deal with the head (or not), I'm considering keeping or not keeping the cab. What heads other than the 370 would you all use the cab with? SWR? Trace? Other thoughts?

Thanks!
 
#3,305
What Bill says. A good tech should be able to suss out what's wrong with your 370 pretty quickly. Those amps aren't anything mysterious. They are just solid state. Well designed and great sounding, but hardly unobtanium to work on. There are typically some discontinued transistors and the like that go bad, but there are also modern equivalents that work just fine. Repairing a 370 would be a whole lot cheaper than buying a different head, most likely.
 
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#3,306
billgoodwin said:
i vote get the 370 serviced....you'll thank yourself later, especially with the 301.
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Cool. I could use a good thanking! Lol...

Gaolee said:
What Bill says. A good tech should be able to suss out what's wrong with your 370 pretty quickly. Those amps aren't anything mysterious. They are just solid state. Well designed and great sounding, but hardly unobtanium to work on. There are typically some discontinued transistors and the like that go bad, but there are also modern equivalents that work just fine. Repairing a 370 would be a whole lot cheaper than buying a different head, most likely.
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Nice!

Thanks for the replies... I'd gotten a rather unfavorable report from a young amp tech in the neighborhood here- told me I had to replace a lot of old goods in order to even see if it was worth continuing with, and was discouraged a good bit. Now I'm a good deal more hopeful, and when the local guru (the older, more seasoned local dude everyone knows) gets back from vacation, it goes into the pile at his place! This is the *big amp* I almost had years ago, and have now walked into, in much the same way a man walks into a light-post when looking the other way. Ha. Glad to get a favorable report, enthusiastic thanks!
 
#3,307
Count Bassie said:
I'd gotten a rather unfavorable report from a young amp tech in the neighborhood here- told me I had to replace a lot of old goods in order to even see if it was worth continuing with, and was discouraged a good bit. Now I'm a good deal more hopeful, and when the local guru (the older, more seasoned local dude everyone knows) gets back from vacation, it goes into the pile at his place!
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Good to hear you have a more seasoned tech coming back soon. There are probably less than $20 worth of board-mounted aluminum electrolytic capacitors in a 370... most the cost of replacing them would be the labor. Hopefully that's all it is. If the main fuse isn't blowing and you're not getting a lot of hum, then the 7800uF power supply capacitor is probably OK, and that is the most expensive thing in there. Shorted power transistors also usually take out the fuse, so maybe you'll get lucky and it will be as simple as replacing the old small electrolytics.
 
#3,308
JacklegBass said:
Good to hear you have a more seasoned tech coming back soon. There are probably less than $20 worth of board-mounted aluminum electrolytic capacitors in a 370... most the cost of replacing them would be the labor. Hopefully that's all it is. If the main fuse isn't blowing and you're not getting a lot of hum, then the 7800uF power supply capacitor is probably OK, and that is the most expensive thing in there. Shorted power transistors also usually take out the fuse, so maybe you'll get lucky and it will be as simple as replacing the old small electrolytics.
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...or even the switch itself - they're vulnerable.
 
#3,311
JacklegBass said:
Good to hear you have a more seasoned tech coming back soon. There are probably less than $20 worth of board-mounted aluminum electrolytic capacitors in a 370... most the cost of replacing them would be the labor. Hopefully that's all it is. If the main fuse isn't blowing and you're not getting a lot of hum, then the 7800uF power supply capacitor is probably OK, and that is the most expensive thing in there. Shorted power transistors also usually take out the fuse, so maybe you'll get lucky and it will be as simple as replacing the old small electrolytics.
Click to expand...

There is a recommended value fuse (7A) in the holder, not blown- and a spare in the spare holder. Says to me that whomever owned it at least took the most basic care of it. All this news is pretty great! And I have had a 370 before- went down, and it was a small clutch of 'cold solder joints', EZ and cheap to have fixed.

I'll repost when I get the word. Thanks again, all!
 
#3,312
Note: Just got a copy of the 370 owner's manual (thanks Billy!). It has to be the most concisely written, generally informative, and brief (read: "Enjoyable") owner's manual for a piece of music gear I've ever seen.

Nicely done, Acoustic Control Corp. Yep.

Ok, back when my monster is up and running! And a photo for the virtual wall...
 
#3,314
Feralhog said:
Acoustic B300H & Warwick WCA211 Pro

Acoustic B300H & Warwick WCA211 Pro

  • Media owner Feralhog
  • Date added
Bought a B300H today. Tested it out in the store yesterday and today. Looked at the price and told the guy to "wrap it up"! Matched it up with a Warwick WCA211 Pro 2x10. Seems like it'll do everything I'll ever need it to do......
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Would it be worth the effort to get that Warwick cab's twin brother (Warwick WCA211 Pro) which is wasting away at GC (Using with B300H which is 300 watts @ 4 ohms)?

OOPS. Wrong Cabinet Specs........corrected below.......

Specs:
    • Power rating 300W (max. 400W)
    • 8 ohms
    • 101dB
    • 2 x 10" speakers (power rating 150W, max. 200W, 16 ohms, 94dB, resonant frequency: 50Hz, frequency range: 35Hz-3500Hz)
    • HF horn with attenuator (power rating 30W, max. 40W, 8 ohms, 95dB, resonant frequency: 2,5kHz, frequency range: 1,2kHz-20kHz
    • Bass reflex housing
  • Dimensions (W/H/D): 0,62 x 0,67 x 0,49 m

Thanks!
 
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#3,319
Anyone have any experience using the link out/in feature on the B300h and B800h heads?

Do you retain independent volume control on each head but only EQ and tonal control of the master head?

Does anyone have any experience slaving an older B600h or B200h using the effects out and effects in? How about monitor out from another Amp and effects in of the B600h or B200h?

Do you retain independent volume control on each but only EQ and tonal control of the master head?

Thanks guys.
 

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