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The Hossenfeffer II Build

#121
Another jig for cutting the headstock back flat and thicknessed, this one slightly less cheesy. The stepped route is to rough the volute. In my defense, I originally only planned one Ric clone build, so I didn't think the jigs needed to be anything elaborate, this is it for these jigs though. I won't be giving @Bruce Johnson any competition in the jig department any time soon!
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A little preview, try to picture this with the same cream binding...
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#123
Gilmourisgod said:
Another jig for cutting the headstock back flat and thicknessed, this one slightly less cheesy. The stepped route is to rough the volute. In my defense, I originally only planned one Ric clone build, so I didn't think the jigs needed to be anything elaborate, this is it for these jigs though. I won't be giving @Bruce Johnson any competition in the jig department any time soon!
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A little preview, try to picture this with the same cream binding...
View attachment 3017241
Click to expand...
That's gonna look sweet all bound up!
 
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#126
I think I may have to build a "negative" cutout form of the headstock, combined with my positive headstock template, to make a pre-bend form for the binding. The binding is .060" thick, so it doesn't take a tight radius well, you have to heat it right to the point of distortion before it will bend easily. The difference between a good bend and a melted mess is about 1 second too much with the heat gun. Any advice from somebody who's done this appreciated!
 
#130
Gilmourisgod said:
@Jon Clegg
Nice job, forgot you had bound the headstock. Did you end up having to use heat to bend it, or just the string and tape? Does your binding just bevel into the bottom of the fingerboard?
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I ended up not using much heat after getting frustrated with the 'nothing... nothing... nothing... ack!' nature of it.
Yeah, the HS binding just bevels into the bottom of the fingerboard; I just shaved it flush to the top of the neck before installing the FB:
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#133
The only part I can’t do with the Robosander is the inside radius of the “hook”, it’s smaller than the robosander radius. Worst place, of course, if it chips out there I’m screwed, though I got away with it on the HF1 with a router. Might have to hand file and sand that area. Having to worry about chip out constantly has upped my game a little.
 
#135
Jon Clegg said:
You'll hate me for mentioning this now, but I used a forstner to cut the inside of the curl on a template.
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Ha! I actually used a forstner to cut the rough hook, but I don't have one that matches the size exactly, might have been worth the investment! PS, that little nib of walnut on the hook point will get nuked when I sand to line. That was the limitation on how far apart the walnut stringers could be off centerline. I though it would look stupid having the walnut left just on the point.

On an entirely unrelated point, my son decided to strip this beat old 93' MIM P-Bass. Kinda cool having him in the shop with me working on his own bass as I flog away on the Ric. I've always read that this poly finish is bulletproof, so we went right at it with a heat gun. The colorcoat came off pretty quickly, but the milky, semi-transparent primer seems a lot tougher. I think we'd burn it getting it off. Sand it all off?
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#137
Thanks @ctmullins, I like the “leave it” option. Some bits of it flaked off with the colorcoat, leaving divots, can we just fill those with auto body spot filler or bondo? I realize this is off-topic! I’ll start a new thread in Rattlecan Refinish Club, he wants to paint it seafoam green.
 
#140
Got the headstock binding channels cut (mostly) sucessfully. These photos have been posed to carefully hide an eff-up, which will be later featured in my "Spot The Eff-Up!" show. Pretty sure it will be invisible, involving a sliver of matching maple grafted in, but if you can't spot it later, I'm not copping to it! Suffice to say that at least three of the Nine Mightiest Oaths were spoken before I realized it was readily fixable. The rest of it came out sweet, so no compaints. Time to order a fingerboard.
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