• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

The John East preamp club

Dropped a three knob East Uni in my Acasia Thunderbird a few days ago. God I love these East preamps, you can shape the sound of your bass a thousand different ways BEFORE you even though the tone knobs.
IMG_2901.jpeg

IMG_2907.jpeg

IMG_2906.jpeg
 
I'm specifically looking for more highs while in passive. I was curious if changing the caps on these pre's would help that. I know the uni isn't as simple as most pre's so I don't know how it works.

I can put it in active and get more high's than anyone could ever need, but I have a bad bad habit of not unplugging and killing batteries so I spend most of my time running passive. I should install a power interrupt switch, but the bass is small and already very crowded with the 5 knobs.
 
I'm specifically looking for more highs while in passive. I was curious if changing the caps on these pre's would help that. I know the uni isn't as simple as most pre's so I don't know how it works.

I can put it in active and get more high's than anyone could ever need, but I have a bad bad habit of not unplugging and killing batteries so I spend most of my time running passive. I should install a power interrupt switch, but the bass is small and already very crowded with the 5 knobs.

I'm looking for a brighter sound while in passive. Maybe I just need to find some different strings.

Ah.

You could add a switch that bypasses the Uni completely, and just sends the pickup(s) straight to the jack. But that’s an extra switch.

Different strings can make a big difference too. I love DR HiBeams for their brightness and flexibility.
 
Ah.

You could add a switch that bypasses the Uni completely, and just sends the pickup(s) straight to the jack. But that’s an extra switch.

Different strings can make a big difference too. I love DR HiBeams for their brightness and flexibility.

I just put a set of high beams on 2 days ago. They have a cool sound and they fret and bend awesome but have a pretty significant dip around 500hz and have a peak around 1khz or so but no real top end. (I ran the bass through an analyzer)
Compared to the nickles I've been playing, they sound very middy and no sparkle. I even made a thread about it. The hi beams were nothing like what I expected. That 1k bump makes them sound a but clanky. Never would have dreamed they wouldn't have as much top as nickles. They do have an awesome attack. The way he raw steal kind of grabs onto your fingers makes it easy to sound aggressive without playing hard.
I'm still trying to decide if they are for me or not.
 
Well, each instrument is unique. I have found that it can take some trial and error to find the right set of strings for a particular bass.
Oh no doubt.
When I first bought this particular bass I went on a string bender. 30 plus sets in about 3 weeks. I was just exploring as that was something I never really did before. I always just defaulted to boomers because they were what I knew.
I just always assumed nickles would be darker than steel, but thats not always the case i found out.
 
My uni 5 volume pot doesn't completely cut the sound. Is this normal ?

I dont think the pot is worn. Ive only used that knob maybe 10 times in many years.
I gues that's maybe why I never noticed it doing this.
 
Hey folks, I had a Uni Pre in one of my basses but the push/pull pot was cutting in and out. I took it to my lical tech and he saw that the problem was a ripped jumper cable. I tried emailing John East a while back but never got a response. Does anyone know where I might be able to order one online? I don't these are proprietary.
 
Hey folks, I had a Uni Pre in one of my basses but the push/pull pot was cutting in and out. I took it to my lical tech and he saw that the problem was a ripped jumper cable. I tried emailing John East a while back but never got a response. Does anyone know where I might be able to order one online? I don't these are proprietary.

Can you send some pictures of the wire that's damaged, and how it connects on both ends? Looking online I see a couple of different variations on how it was constructed. Most likely you will be able to just solder in replacement wires. If you send pictures I might be able to point you in a direction.
 

Latest posts