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The Mediocre Builders Club

We could vote to expel all those showing off more than mediocre results :)

you can't do that:jawdrop: I'd have nowhere to go.:blackeye::nailbiting: Besides, I wasn't always any good.
Please read this post from May 7th.
This explains why all builders are welcome here.

Today I am going to tell a little story. This may not be the direct inspiration for this club, but it certainly captures the essence of why it is important. It was sometime between 7 and 9 months ago that I decided to build my first Bass from scratch. I wanted to experiment with different tone-woods, specifically cherry. so the idea was to build a semi hollow body. the problem was that i didn't have the tools i really needed, so i was going to try a radical idea. i decided to build it "sandwich style" that being to cut the body with the cavities being cut all the way through with a jig saw rather cut them most of the way through with a router. To cover the back i cut a seperate piece of 1/4" cherry plywood, and the same for the top.
I had no idea what size or shape to make it, so i just drew what seemed reasonable to me and started to build it. It was slightly less than a steller build. here are the pics....
View attachment 4261302 View attachment 4261303 View attachment 4261304 View attachment 4261305 View attachment 4261306 View attachment 4261308 View attachment 4261309 View attachment 4261310 View attachment 4261311

Even though it was ugly, I considered it a success because of all that i learned in the process, and the fact that i sounded much better than it looked. I posted it on one of the threads, probably bass hoarding personality disorder. I got some really bad comments, including one person saying how nice it was for me to buy some high school kids shop project.

But there were also people who supported me and encouraged me to keep at it. MirandM was one of the ones who was most supportive. It would have been easy to give up and even quit the site as a result of the negative comments, and judgmental attitudes expressed by some members of the site.

Here is the point.

Without building that "shop project", and getting offered ideas from others like MirandM I would not have improved to the point where i have now built projects like this one...
View attachment 4261338or even this one...View attachment 4261339

The reason for this club is to have a place where any work will be encouraged, and nobody will ridicule or judge any work no matter the results. And it is important that you not be intimidated by someone else's great success. I can say for certain that I will only offer support and possible tips if asked for. And if i ever sound like I am not being accepting enough, you can always remind me of the shop project.

Please bookmark this, so that if any new members seem to be intimidated, you can point this out to them, and make the point that this is a place where they are safe to share everything and anything, because without the "less than perfect" builds, none of us would ever become good.

remember the following quote and live by it.....

"The difference between a master and a novice is that the master has failed more times than the novice has even tried."
 
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you can't do that:jawdrop: I'd have nowhere to go.:blackeye::nailbiting: Besides, I wasn't always any good.
Please read this post from May 7th.
This explains why all builders are welcome here.

It was a joke, of course. By the way, my blue CovidBass is made sandwich-style, with cheap laminated residuals I had around :) . Looking at the picture, I didn't remember I even "chambered" it. If you can call "chambers" those crooked wounds...

IMG_5638.JPG
 

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It was a joke, of course. By the way, my blue CovidBass is made sandwich-style, with cheap laminated residuals I had around :) . Looking at the picture, I didn't remember I even "chambered" it. If you can call "chambers" those crooked wounds...

View attachment 4412002

lol when i looked at that pic, my first thought was "OMG he stole my floating bass templates".
 
It was a joke, of course. By the way, my blue CovidBass is made sandwich-style, with cheap laminated residuals I had around :) . Looking at the picture, I didn't remember I even "chambered" it. If you can call "chambers" those crooked wounds...

View attachment 4412002

lol when i looked at that pic, my first thought was "OMG he stole my floating bass templates".
Those posts are exactly why I started this thread, I really enjoy seeing members posting images of their work, however mediocre or bad it may look to you, I find them very stimulating for anyone interested in doing something like building, modifying or whatever. You can build a functional bass from whatever you have laying around, and this just proves it! GREAT!
 
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Nofretbacker project

Enlargement of the neck pup cavity. The new pickguard screw holes are also marked. This will ensure the right placement of the neck pup, that is, this time correctly centered. I'll probably change the toaster for a high gain one I still have in my box.

IMG_20210924_172218_s.jpg


Note the lovely grain of the veneer on the neck. It already had it's layers of pu done, result is very smooth.
I ordered some binding to glue on the sides as they are too rough and ugly to leave like this.
Will need some dremel work though.
I finished the drilling of the new pickguard screw holes and remounted the bridge at it's new 33.25" scale position.
Still need to rewire the whole thing to Ric standard. I'll probably skip the stereo option, I never use it so there's really not much sense into spending $ on the special switchcraft mono jack.
Slowly getting there.
 
I could use your advice.
I have been thinking..... (always a bad sign).... that i could create my own custom electronics for a bass or guitars. Some of you are probably familiar with EMG solderless (plug in) systems. they work great and are easy to assemble, and are high quality. But there are times that EMG pickups would not be my first choice. Like hot rails or single coils. the only way EMG sells those is as a pickguard assembly. Well I have custom wooden pickguards to fit the shapes of my instruments.

Has anyone ever tried to do something similar to the EMG system using USB connectors? there are inexpensive kits available to make your own USB connectors (soldering terminals to build).
I think by pre-fitting the parts, using USB A male connectors for all output functions and USB A female for input functions soldered to each potentiometer, pickup, switch and plug a fully interchangeable system of plug and play components can be assembled.

And by using a stereo output to an external battery case, (using the second circuit for the 9v or 18v power) fully active systems can be made without inserting an eyesore battery case into the body of a hand crafted guitar. Has anybody tried this before?
 
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I could use your advice.
I have been thinking..... (always a bad sign).... that i could create my own custom electronics for a bass or guitars. Some of you are probably familiar with EMG solderless (plug in) systems. they work great and are easy to assemble, and are high quality. But there are times that EMG pickups would not be my first choice. Like hot rails or single coils. the only way EMG sells those is as a pickguard assembly. Well I have custom wooden pickguards to fit the shapes of my instruments.

Has anyone ever tried to do something similar to the EMG system using USB connectors? there are inexpensive kits available to make your own USB connectors (soldering terminals to build).
I think by pre-fitting the parts, using USB A male connectors for all output functions and USB A female for input functions soldered to each potentiometer, pickup, switch and plug a fully interchangeable system of plug and play components can be assembled.

And by using a stereo output to an external battery case, (using the second circuit for the 9v or 18v power) fully active systems can be made without inserting an eyesore battery case into the body of a hand crafted guitar. Has anybody tried this before?
I like the way you're thinking, BT! :thumbsup:

The only question I had upon reading this is about corrosion at the fittings long term. But there may be treatments for that-a non conductive grease perhaps? Also the system is modular so replacements should be easy to handle.

But I am not a builder.:bookworm:
 
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I could use your advice.
I have been thinking..... (always a bad sign).... that i could create my own custom electronics for a bass or guitars. Some of you are probably familiar with EMG solderless (plug in) systems. they work great and are easy to assemble, and are high quality. But there are times that EMG pickups would not be my first choice. Like hot rails or single coils. the only way EMG sells those is as a pickguard assembly. Well I have custom wooden pickguards to fit the shapes of my instruments.

Has anyone ever tried to do something similar to the EMG system using USB connectors? there are inexpensive kits available to make your own USB connectors (soldering terminals to build).
I think by pre-fitting the parts, using USB A male connectors for all output functions and USB A female for input functions soldered to each potentiometer, pickup, switch and plug a fully interchangeable system of plug and play components can be assembled.

And by using a stereo output to an external battery case, (using the second circuit for the 9v or 18v power) fully active systems can be made without inserting an eyesore battery case into the body of a hand crafted guitar. Has anybody tried this before?
You may be over-complicating this. EMG uses 0.1" pin system compatible with the Arduino pin system. Have a good look at what's available for that, you can get male, female, connectors, you name it. All at cheap prices, easy to assemble (not the case with usb) and very simple. You could use parts of a universal pcb which is also 0.1" grid to connect pots and the likes.
And... if you let you mind run wild, make an Arduino bass in the process... :jawdrop: :p
 
You may be over-complicating this. EMG uses 0.1" pin system compatible with the Arduino pin system. Have a good look at what's available for that, you can get male, female, connectors, you name it. All at cheap prices, easy to assemble (not the case with usb) and very simple. You could use parts of a universal pcb which is also 0.1" grid to connect pots and the likes.
And... if you let you mind run wild, make an Arduino bass in the process... :jawdrop: :p
I'd go with a Daisy personally -- 48 kHz/ 24 bit CODEC built in.
 
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You can build your own connectors using the Dupont connectors that EMG uses, using the pins/housings like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G0I0ZZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

buying the crimpers, like this will make your life much easier:

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Profes...78c04&pd_rd_wg=WeXdU&pd_rd_i=B00OMM4YUY&psc=1

I like the way you're thinking, BT! :thumbsup:

The only question I had upon reading this is about corrosion at the fittings long term. But there may be treatments for that-a non conductive grease perhaps? Also the system is modular so replacements should be easy to handle.

But I am not a builder.:bookworm:

You may be over-complicating this. EMG uses 0.1" pin system compatible with the Arduino pin system. Have a good look at what's available for that, you can get male, female, connectors, you name it. All at cheap prices, easy to assemble (not the case with usb) and very simple. You could use parts of a universal pcb which is also 0.1" grid to connect pots and the likes.
And... if you let you mind run wild, make an Arduino bass in the process... :jawdrop: :p

Crimped automotive electrical connectors are also cheap and reliable. I used bullet connectors on a project where I wanted to swap out pickups.

Thank you all for your input. I do a lot of electronics wiring but i usually use 9pin or 15 pin "D" connectors and ferrules into terminal blocks inside of control wiring cabinets. And i wasn't sure where to look for small connectors. USB was simply a choice which i knew i could make work.
Now i will evaluate the suggestions and make a decision.

While we are at it. Is there a particular brand of potentiometer which you consider to be better quality than others. Switches i can evaluate, but potentiometers really can only be evaluated by satisfaction in use over time.
 
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Ben taking my time, making all new templates, (nice clean tight fits) and sanding with 5 grades of sandpaper all the way down to 450grit. Also learned how to do inlays in bodies and fretboards. Learned how to craft my own necks, including truss rods...
Bought an entire counter top of 1" hard maple unfinished butcher block to cut up to make necks, fretboards, top-boards, and bodies. and plan on also getting similar ones in oak and cherry.

The results.....
Man I am loving these guitars and basses.
the difference is as pronounced between these and the ones I displayed here a month ago as those are from the first try. Now I don't feel guilty pricing them as top of the line instruments because they finally really are.
 
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...
While we are at it. Is there a particular brand of potentiometer which you consider to be better quality than others. Switches i can evaluate, but potentiometers really can only be evaluated by satisfaction in use over time.
CTS is the most well known brand, you may know them from the miniature switches which are also made by C&K.
I don't use them, I prefer Kaish which makes miniature pots, specifically dual ports either concentric (V/T) or not are great to use, they fit everwhere and I haven't yet had one that failed.
Here's how they look (post #87 in this thread):
2020-01-26-13-21-56_s-jpg-jpg.jpg
 
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...
The results.....
Man I am loving these guitars and basses.
the difference is as pronounced between these and the ones I displayed here a month ago as those are from the first try. Now I don't feel guilty pricing them as top of the line instruments because they finally really are.
Since I've had the luck of being there when you started, I really would love to see you do a top of the line industrial design of your first and such unique design. The look of that bass was so unique you could actually use it to build a new line of instruments, completely different, not near what everybody else does. Idea?
 
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Ben taking my time, making all new templates, (nice clean tight fits) and sanding with 5 grades of sandpaper all the way down to 450grit. Also learned how to do inlays in bodies and fretboards. Learned how to craft my own necks, including truss rods...
Bought an entire counter top of 1" hard maple unfinished butcher block to cut up to make necks, fretboards, top-boards, and bodies. and plan on also getting similar ones in oak and cherry.

The results.....
Man I am loving these guitars and basses.
the difference is as pronounced between these and the ones I displayed here a month ago as those are from the first try. Now I don't feel guilty pricing them as top of the line instruments because they finally really are.
Wait, "unfinished butcher block to cut up to make necks, fretboards"?
This is the first time I think I've heard of people making necks and fretboards out of butcher blocks.
Are we talking this kind of butcher block?
upload_2021-10-1_12-33-27.png


Or (unlikely) this kind?
upload_2021-10-1_12-34-6.png


Not sure as a buyer I'd pay top dollar for either to be made into necks or fretboards. My max price would probably top out in the $500 range.
:cautious:
 
Wait, "unfinished butcher block to cut up to make necks, fretboards"?
This is the first time I think I've heard of people making necks and fretboards out of butcher blocks.
Are we talking this kind of butcher block?
View attachment 4423576

Or (unlikely) this kind?
View attachment 4423577

Not sure as a buyer I'd pay top dollar for either to be made into necks or fretboards. My max price would probably top out in the $500 range.
:cautious:
A whole new line, CounterBass and ButcherBass, sshhh don't tell J.H. :nailbiting: :speechless:
 
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