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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by MirandM, Apr 30, 2021.
thanks! By the way, I have been a flying models builder too (better than bass builder...).
So then you have a flying V bass, right?
mmm... the closest model was a depron "Stealth"... apologies for the wine bottles in the background
You're forgiven if it's Italian wine, preferably Abruzzo...
There is also a Rioja there
That's like putting a Chianti there... no charm, it should have been a Valdepeñas to measure up to the Abruzzo.
Just found this interesting thread. I always felt there should be a subgroup for bass mods for the rest of us, IE ameuture mods & such - a place to ask questions & learn.
My skills are nowhere in the leauge of the luthiers corner.
I’ve got a couple basses I want to mod. A cheap Traveller bass has some issues: guitar tuners (cheap ones at that) dont hold up well to the tension of bass strings, the bride has no adjustability & the tonal output is a bit harsh.
For now I’ve got a pair of stubby hipshots for it and a plan on how to make them fit.
Well you're exactly in the right place. No limits here, modding, building, half building, projects experimental or not, it's all ok.
You're number will be this:
That's right #1110, as all of us are, mediocre.
I am building a baritone guitar to play in harmony with my daughter on her new (built by me} guitar.
I am posting some of the progress on Mediocre bassists club, but don't plan on posting here until I finish the build and can tell the whole story. For those of you who are members of both, i wanted you to know so you are not confused why you see it there and not here. any others who want to see it can find it there just check my recent posts n my profile to find it.
Well a lot of time has passed since my last post back in may about this project. I had personal affairs take me away from any progress so the project was halted.
Yesterday I finally picked up the thread of starting on the real work since the bass was still untouched (except for some playing).
So I started with removing the frets.
no big deal, some chipping but that doesn't matter as the fretboard will be beneath a glued on layer of veneer, so any small damage won't be visible. Equally the sharkfin inlays will disappear below the veneer.
During this work I got the sensation of the bridge pickup not being correctly centered.
So I did some checking.
Indeed, off centered by nearly half a centimeter.
Next I removed the pickguard to see if there any room for relocation.
Between the upper left screwhole and the pup routing and the lower right screwhole and pup routing there's room enough to move pickguard a little downward to center the pup correctly.
Simple check to see if at all possible, yes seems there's no problem to correct this failure. I'll have to enlarge the pup cavity a bit so it'll fit, but there's also room for that.
Also checked the electronics to see if I can use it to have original Ric wiring. Luckily the pup switch is the correct one for that, not the typical chinese enclosed one. This is the one needed.
The rest is just standard stuff.
Now this bass is 34" scale, but since I removed the frets and there will be no marker lines I will be able to convert this into 33.25" scale by just moving the bridge a little further up the body.
The bridge had some overhang on the lower corner, but by moving it a bit further up the body this problem is also solved. Here is the position as I marked it on the body. The original screw holes are covered by the bridge so that's ok.
I have an allparts Ric oem bridge which I could have used, but the problem is that those bridges have the mute bar in front of the saddles. Thus the position of the saddles is further downwards which would mean I'd have to move the bridge even more upwards on the body leaving about 2 inches of space between the bridge and the bottom of the body. It would also mean it would probably be too close to the bridge pup. Not an acceptable position to me. So I'll stick with the China bridge which isn't too bad either.
Next I have sanded the fretboard with my 10" radius block. It didn't need much work and after cleaning is now ready for the veneer glue job. The veneer is about 0.15 mm thick so no real change that would affect the setup of the bass. I like low action and without frets you can go a bit lower so it actually comes in perfectly.
More to come...
After two tries with the veneer, I gave up. The veneer I intended to use is very nice but too thin to successfully apply.
The first time it moved below the polystyrene foam which I used to keep it pressed onto the fretboard, resulting in a very ugly fold.
The second time I used a different glue which resulted in way too many bubbles visible after a first layer of pore-filler.
Removal again and another resurfacing of the fretboard.
So I set out to find a different veneer, one that is just a little bit thicker and has a pre-glued backing.
I found a roll of 1 meter at 10 cm wide and 0.45 mm thick, perfect for the neck which is 60 mm at its widest point. Only thing that wasn't to my liking was the color, light white oak.
Anyway, today I did the job using a heat iron and it went straight out perfect. Sticks completely, no bubbles, no irregularities, perfectly straight.
I'm very pleased with the result, exactly as I wanted it and the thickness is just enough to cover the height of the frets so my action will be exactly the same.
I had planned on using a color varnish to have it colored just as the original neck, BUT seeing this result it got me thinking of maybe leaving it just as it is, with just a very light maple varnish this would actually have the same color as the body and I kind of like the nerves as they are right now. They'll be even a bit more accentuated after the varnish. I might even try that on a piece of leftover just to be sure.
I don't have a maple neck fretless bass so this could make a unique addition to my flock.
What do you guys think?
I like the grain.
Yes, experiment on a leftover piece. Recommend water based powder stains you mix up yourself, this enables you to get the perfect color intensity. Do not get alcohol stains, they are photo reactive & react to sunlight. Then use whatever
varnish type finish you like. Some Tung or Danish oils can be applied multiple times to get a hard surface with a
glossy finish & really brings the grain to life. Experimenting a lot of times is key to getting what you want.
Yeah, that's what had me change my mind. I've just done the third layer of pore-filler, needed independently of the finish but I'm pretty sure I'll do two or so layers of oregon pine transparent varnish and probably two or three layers of PU. That will give it the slight yellowish color. I've used it before so I won't need to experiment too much as I don't have much time for that. I'm about to move homes and really want to finish this before packing it up.
This is a beautiful bass.
since i have arranged with a local custom guitar shop to carry my work, i have been working like crazy. But everything has to be perfect, so much of what i have been doing i have had to do multiple times. I have come up with three variations of the floating top bass i made earlier, and these have become the bulk of my work. I am in the process of building 4 at once right now, and keeping them straight as to what parts go with which build has been challenging.
In the mean time I finished the build of my 30" baritone. It is not strung yet because I an waiting for the sticker velum for printing the neck logo to arrive. but other than that it is functional.
This is not going on sale at the store, this is for my own personal use. It features a floating top, but with a closed back and hollowed chambers like a semi-hollow. the pickguard is my own design and is the prototype for any custom requests for instruments with pickguards, regardless of pickup configuration. the body is oak, the neck maple, and the top is cherry.
I have been working on hand carving the woods and making inlays using metallic epoxy resins. As well as hand shaping necks and making my own fretboards. currently i am working on making parts out of maple butcher block lumber. I bought this 36" x 72" piece which i intend to make 3 bodies, at least 2 necks, and at least 3 fretboards from.
I also bought a bandsaw and drill press to make it possible to make my custom necks and fretboards. next step is to build a routing fixture for cutting the truss rod slot.
If these are mediocre, I belong in the less than crappy club. Particularly love the home grown Rics: they look amazing
Where's that 1000 Likes button!
while i don't actually play guitar, I am learning. this is how my new baritone worked out.
at least i hope i posted that right.
Very nice! Got lots of different tones in your hand right there!
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