• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

The Mike Lull Club Part 3

Status
Not open for further replies.
#445
I need some schooling from you guys... I have a V4 and a M5V, both ash body with maple board. My V4 has a quarter-sawn neck, and the M5V neck is flat-sawn. I have DR nickel Sunbeams on the V4, and DR nickel Lo-Riders on the M5V.

I have the neck relief set exactly the same on both basses (at .012"), and the action is set very close to the same on both basses as well. I like pretty low action.

Here's what I'm curious about... My V4 is effortless to play, and it's so easy to press the strings down anywhere on the fretboard... It really just plays like a dream. My M5V plays great too, but it always "feels" like the action is higher, even though it's basically set at the same measurements as my V4. It takes more effort to press the strings on my M5V, and sometimes feels like I'm having to work a little harder to play it than the V4. The action is as low as it'll go without buzzing, and I really don't like how it feels with more neck relief than I have set now.

Does anyone have an explanation for that? Why does the action on the M5V feel higher and more difficult to play, when both basses have the same adjustments? I'm wondering if it's the 34" scale versus the 35" scale, the quarter-sawn neck versus the flat-sawn neck, or the Sunbeam strings versus the Lo-Rider strings.

Regardless, the M5V still plays fantastic, better than any factory bass I've ever played. It's just not quite as effortless as my V4.
 
#450
All other things equal, a round core string is much more flexible that a hex core string. Even at the same tension. So a Hex Core on a 35 inch scale will feel very different that a round core on a 34 inch. I generally prefer DR round core to hex core. However, the round core string requires gentler handling (NO Stretching!) when installed. but this is all printed on the inside of the packaging (worst place ever). The Hex core will also out last the round core, but that's meaningless if the bass never feels right to you.

One thing you might want to check is nut slot depth, and how the string is sitting in the nut. Fret the strings at the 3rd fret and look at the clearance over the first fret.

If your E and B srtings are tapered just before the nut (often the case with DR strings on a 35 inch scale bass, especially strung through body) then they will act as if they were sitting in a lower cut nut, (due to the taper) therefore you could have set the bridge and neck slightly different than your four string to get the same measured results, and the basses will feel different. Remedy this by putting a thin piece of paper (like receipt paper) under the B string untill the next string change. Then make tiny readjustments to the bridge.

I have found with Lulls that although they always feel great, tiny adjustments can get them to go from great to perfect, like a very small nudge on the truss rod (1/8 th to 1/16th of a turn) can seem to do wonders, while it'll be nearly impossible to measure the difference the bass will just feel like it's come to life. Again, every player is different so the bass has to be adjusted to fit the player...

As for more in depth setup advice on the Five, I'll defer to the opinions of five string experts (I don't own any but I have restrung a few Lull fivers this week.)

+1 to Greg's comment on the 35". you could try a slightly lighter gauge string as well (like 45-65-80-100-125, vs 45-65-85-105-130)
 
#451
Thanks for all the info... Maybe I should try the Sunbeams on my M5V. Could also try D'Addario nickels, but I'm not sure if they're hex-core or round-core. I just love the feel of the Sunbeams on my V4.

On the 35" scale, the DR's do taper off before the nut on the B string, since it strings through the body.
 
#452
I just went thru all this with string tension on my Lull M5V. I like to be able to bend strings but not too loose of tension where they are floppy. I came to the conclusion that (being a big fan of steels) Dunlop as well as D'Addario's. I play Dunlop religiously and like lights 40 60 80 100 125/130 but also D'Addario Pro Steel 40 60 80 100 130XL is a great set for M5V's with std tuning. I say 130XL because the taper on a std Long Scale 130 will be right over the nut.... Not Good. You can go the rout of Hex core DR LoRiders but go light 40 60 80 100 125/130 on the Lull. It will be very good string tension due to the 35" scale.

All this is subject to personal taste but I hate stiff strings and this has worked well for my playing.. Good Luck!!
 
#453
ok... I know Lulls have only been around since 1998 or so, but do any of you guys have any really dinged-up, worn in Lulls? I got a chance to see Bryan Beller's M5 up close, and it has some nice battle scars, but how about you guys?

Let's see some good dings, battle scars!
 
#454
droskobass said:
ok... I know Lulls have only been around since 1998 or so, but do any of you guys have any really dinged-up, worn in Lulls? I got a chance to see Bryan Beller's M5 up close, and it has some nice battle scars, but how about you guys?

Let's see some good dings, battle scars!
Click to expand...

I bought my first Lullm5v over eleven years ago, pretty beat up. I'll try and take pictures when I get back. Even my latest Lull is getting beat up, if you ever see me selling a Lull as mint or even good condition, it's a lie.;)
 
#455
Killens84 said:
Thanks for all the info... Maybe I should try the Sunbeams on my M5V. Could also try D'Addario nickels, but I'm not sure if they're hex-core or round-core. I just love the feel of the Sunbeams on my V4.

On the 35" scale, the DR's do taper off before the nut on the B string, since it strings through the body.
Click to expand...

I have Sunbeams on my Lull M5V. Very flexible and sound great.

But D'Addario's are in the other side of the tension spectrum, they are hex core and maybe the stiffer amongst the more popular strings in the market.

Another suggestion on the round core group is GHS, they are cheap and very decent.
 
#458
I've got a hunch that us Lulls guys are way less uptight about honest dings and scratches than the guys in the Sadowsky or Fodera Club that seem to all have pristine 15-20 year old basses...

is it me, or are Lull players more likely to be trench guys, gigging away... let's see some good ones!
 
#459
droskobass said:
I've got a hunch that us Lulls guys are way less uptight about honest dings and scratches than the guys in the Sadowsky or Fodera Club that seem to all have pristine 15-20 year old basses...

is it me, or are Lull players more likely to be trench guys, gigging away... let's see some good ones!
Click to expand...

You know, there are def some Sadowsky guys who don't mind dings (me being one of them). Now, a guy with a Fodera that cost my Sadowsky NYC and Metro combined w my Lull, maybe not so much!!!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back