• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

The Official MARUSZCZYK CLUB!

Agreed. Did they charge you any extra for that?

The stainless steel zero fret could still be an option for people who prefer standard nickel frets.
I'm not sure what the upcharge was because it wasn't itemized on my invoice. The first fret work you needed would probably be more than the upcharge to have them originally installed. Can anyone hear the difference between them? If so, wouldn't it defeat the purpose of having a stainless steel zero fret if it sounded different than the other frets?
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlueTalon
I'm not sure what the upcharge was because it wasn't itemized on my invoice. The first fret work you needed would probably be more than the upcharge to have them originally installed. Can anyone hear the difference between them? If so, wouldn't it defeat the purpose of having a stainless steel zero fret if it sounded different than the other frets?
I doubt anyone could hear the difference. Maybe someone with exceptional hearing? I wouldn't worry about it, though. There's probably a greater chance of hearing the difference between a nickel zero fret and a bone/tusq/plastic nut, and that doesn't stop anyone from using those materials.

If it was me, if I have a bass with stainless steel frets and it needs fretwork, I'm having it PLEK'd. As far as I know, there's no difference in the charge for PLEK between basses with stainless steel frets and basses with nickel frets.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlackWolf
;)
I'm not at a point where I would buy one, but I occasionally go on the web site and configure a bass just to have something to drool over while I'm waiting for the right time. Those pictures look a lot like the kinds of configurations I've put together recently. You have great taste!
Their configurator is both good and evil, but always fun to use. ;)

Thank you! I am more inclined towards the third and (especially) last one with katalox fingerboard. Based on a few photos the wenge top looks better to me, instead I prefer the caribbean rosewood for a jazz-style bass with a pickguard.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: dave64o
I'm not sure what the upcharge was because it wasn't itemized on my invoice. The first fret work you needed would probably be more than the upcharge to have them originally installed. Can anyone hear the difference between them? If so, wouldn't it defeat the purpose of having a stainless steel zero fret if it sounded different than the other frets?
No I cannot hear the difference. On my last build I used a stainless zero fret and EVO Gold fret wire. Maybe you’d see a difference with a spectrum analyzer? Dunno, but wouldn’t waste my time trying to analyze it ;)
D7FBC42E-2642-4B2F-8E36-5711DD8DDD4B.jpeg
 
I think I am pretty set with most options, but I am wondering about a Frog versus a Paddock. Is there anything aside from the obvious look, possible weight difference, to consider with these?
It is the same body just a single cut version, I think the weight is negligible. The one I ordered was not heavier and woods were similar.
 
It is the same body just a single cut version, I think the weight is negligible. The one I ordered was not heavier and woods were similar.
Thanks. I guess that is pretty clear in the description on the website. It is just a big purchase so I wanted to double check there isn't anything I haven't considered.

I've never had a single cut bass. Though, I was trying to pay attention to whether I ever loop my thumb up there anyway and all my muscle memory seems to want to keep my thumb pretty dead center on the neck anyway.

Appreciate your response to my probably rather 'let me Google that for you' question.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Barticus and TK4261
No I cannot hear the difference. On my last build I used a stainless zero fret and EVO Gold fret wire. Maybe you’d see a difference with a spectrum analyzer? Dunno, but wouldn’t waste my time trying to analyze it ;)
View attachment 4935699
I was kind of joking about the tonal differences. I know there will be someone who will claim they can tell the difference. I think stainless frets should be standard.
 
I think I am pretty set with most options, but I am wondering about a Frog versus a Paddock. Is there anything aside from the obvious look, possible weight difference, to consider with these?
I believe you can’t have a Paddock with a bolt-on neck. I personally love the way the paddock looks! If I get a fretless, it will be a Paddock with a set neck!
 
Thanks. I guess that is pretty clear in the description on the website. It is just a big purchase so I wanted to double check there isn't anything I haven't considered.

I've never had a single cut bass. Though, I was trying to pay attention to whether I ever loop my thumb up there anyway and all my muscle memory seems to want to keep my thumb pretty dead center on the neck anyway.

Appreciate your response to my probably rather 'let me Google that for you' question.
:) I always think the main consideration is weight on a single cut and it’s a non issue. I like the Paddock, it’s a good design, but I’m partial to single cuts and prefer set necks.
951D822C-DC9C-499E-BE53-F3F3DC0BC90B.jpeg
 
Last edited:
:) I always think the main consideration is weight on a single cut and it’s a non issue. I like the Paddock, it’s a good design, but I’m partial to single cuts and prefer set necks.
View attachment 4936712

Stunning bass. I *love* white ebony, but I feel like I would regret it after awhile. To simply hang on a wall, or to look at (which would be a waste), I would love to have a white ebony fb.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Barticus and TK4261
Dudes and dudettes -- Maru is like the mob. Once you think you're out, you get pulled back in.

I posted here a week or so ago I was going to "cheat" on Maruszczyk and order a custom 5 string high C from Martin Keith. I moved some gear to make it happen, will have $3k here in a few days from Paypal to put down a sizable down payment, and the remainder -- about $400-$600, depending on options I choose -- would get paid off while I wait for the build. We're talking similar build times to Maruszczyk, about 4-5 months.

Well... the lady of the house started discussing finances when I mentioned plans on putting $3k down on a bass. She didn't hard ball me or say no at all, but she did ask if it was possible to wait until March, which at that time I could put $1800 down, and then pay the remainder when it's done.

And me, knowing Murphy's Law... if I'm only putting $1800 down, anything could happen between now and summer. We're by no means in the poor house, but life happens. Transmissions, roofs, the IRS, whatever. I know she would move heaven and earth to pay off the rest if we ever got into a serious bind.

Then I got to thinking... ya know, I could really get what I want from the configurator for about $800 less than I would w/ Martin. Martin makes exceptional instruments. It's a one man shop. He's there every step of the way. But due to the cost, I would be getting a fairly vanilla build (I don't need a AAA top... but it also doesn't hurt).

I love the Jazzus form and I've grown to like the Frog in a weird way, and like the shapes more than MK's Elfin. I love Maruszczyk's Delano Xtender options. And I love Maruszczyk's overall configurability.

Probably most importantly -- I could pay off most/all of a Maru build in March when I place the order.

Back to the configurator. Definitely headless. And probably narrower spacing. I'll be asking lost of headless/spacing questions for the next month. :roflmao:
 
Does anyone have examples of their custom Maru with 'colored' wood tops like any of the maples
How it is compared to East Indian rosewood?

Have any of you tried the Aguilar Super Singles? I like the Aguilar AG 4J-HC on my Elwood, but I am debating if I should or not choose the same pickups again. I like to pianificate things early to be honest. :D

Plantificate -- I'm going to steal that!

No exp with the singles. The doubles yes and they sound great but not helping your cause, unfortunately.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BlackWolf
Random questions for headless users -- any thoughts on WSC vs ETS bridge? I thought I remember someone saying here the ETS are a pain to intonate. But it's a pricier option (which I trust), and I'm wondering if the W in WSC stands for Wilkinson (which I don't trust)

Did some googling and it looks like many other builders use ETS (usually a choice of Hipshot or ETS). Some builders, like ACG, custom do their own head pieces.

The only thing I can find of substance on WSC is usually related back to Maruszczyk, so I'm guessing it's a cheaper alternative they're having made. I did read good feedback on the WSC head piece but coming up short on the WSC monorail bridge itself.

Also, by the looks of the ETS and the head piece -- it looks like running a high C in 5str setup is a non-issue as there's no nut?

Misc:

Does anyone have examples of their custom Maru with 'colored' wood tops like any of the flamed, spalted, birdseye maples? I'm more than likely going non-colored with either Walnut Burl or Laurel but there are some nice pieces in the Wood collection I may consider coloring!
 
:) I always think the main consideration is weight on a single cut and it’s a non issue. I like the Paddock, it’s a good design, but I’m partial to single cuts and prefer set necks.
View attachment 4936712
I agree with you! Headless designs are better balanced and with a set neck you get the best of both worlds between bolt on and neck through designs, more sustain and punch! The upper horn being attached to the neck adds even more sustain! Bolt-ons are punchy and the neck can be replaced incase of major accidents.