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The Official MTD USA Thread

The 535 I bought here a couple of days ago is here. I'll post some pics later.

All I can say is, it's as good as new, flawless and the best out of 3 MTDs I've played. It's very bright. I cut the treble all the way, buy it's still crispy when I pop the strings :eek:

I boost the preamp trimmer 1/4 way, and it's perfect for me right now. What about you guys? How much do you boost the trimmer or not at all?

Also, in my headphones (I use digidesign M-Box Mini), there's quite a noticable noise, even with the preamp trimmer all the way down. Same thing goes for my last 535, but plugged into an amp, there's no problem. Any of you guys experienced the same thing?
 
I currently have a bass on order from Mike (it's due for delivery in May). I'm curious about what's normal regarding the selection of the top wood. Does Mike usually email pictures for the buyer to choose from or does he select the wood himself (unless the buyer has specified that he wants a say in the matter?). What about progress photos? Does Mike usually send these out un-prompted (or should I be asking). I trust Mike's judgment with wood selection, so I haven't made any direct inquiries, I'm just wondering what others' experiences have been with direct orders.
Mike very rarely does progress pics... he's really too busy for that, but he has been known to send out tops pics to choose from if the buyer wishes.
 
I boost the preamp trimmer 1/4 way, and it's perfect for me right now. What about you guys? How much do you boost the trimmer or not at all?
I personally find the stock setting of low or all the way down to be too low as well. I pretty much always crank it up to about 50-60% and the bass seems to "come alive". Do it! :)
 
I personally find the stock setting of low or all the way down to be too low as well. I pretty much always crank it up to about 50-60% and the bass seems to "come alive". Do it! :)

I remember calling Mike, and he said if I boost the pre more than 1/3 (or was it 2/3) the batteries will drain quickly...

I'll try what you said Vic... But boosting it 1/4 way and my recording system is already peaked when I hit the B-String with the Lows boost halfway. I use my recording gear to determine my Eq settings, coz their more 'flat' compare to the amps, so I kinda know what the sound guy will be hearing when I played live. Just as starting point.
It does comes more alive as you boost is up. But also more noisy and less 'woody'. It's the nature of all instruments I guess.

I recorded it with two EQ settings, both sounds great. The slap tone is unbeatable. Turning the balance pot halfway towards the bridge, boost the lows almost all the way, cut the treble all the way, and leave the mid flat is my favorite setting so far, I swear it's THE SAME sound I heard from Richard Bona's Fodera when I saw him play live a week ago.

That being said... MTD is a 'Bang for the buck' in its class
 
As much as I like mac ebony as a fingerboard wood (for its sonic characteristics as well as for its appearance) I don't tend to like it as a top wood. I just find it too hard-looking, if that makes any sense. It also does tend to make me think of furniture, which most other tops don't. I do, however, have a soft spot for a nice piece of redwood. :)

The first bass I have had any experience with that involved an ebony top was the 635 that I reviewed in issue #2 of BGM. But I must say, that was one of the best sounding MTDs I have played! Personally, I think I may be hooked on ebony tops. :cool:
 
I remember calling Mike, and he said if I boost the pre more than 1/3 (or was it 2/3) the batteries will drain quickly...

I'll try what you said Vic... But boosting it 1/4 way and my recording system is already peaked when I hit the B-String with the Lows boost halfway. I use my recording gear to determine my Eq settings, coz their more 'flat' compare to the amps, so I kinda know what the sound guy will be hearing when I played live. Just as starting point.
It does comes more alive as you boost is up. But also more noisy and less 'woody'. It's the nature of all instruments I guess.
Interesting!

Well, I try to "balance" out my basses in output levels, and My MTD doesn't seem to be that much louder than my other basses with it boosted this way, but this might also be affected by pickup height and other stuff. I'll recheck a few basses against my MTD tonight tho just to be sure. Keep in mind, I always gain balance with the bass's EQ set flat. As soon as you start boosting EQ, especially the bass, you gotta' turn your volume or amp/board input gain down.

Also, on the battery drain, it makes sense that the battery will drain faster if the preamp is putting out a hotter signal, but for me, gain matching is more important than getting a few extra gigs out of my batteries. I don't wanna' have to reset my amp's input gain or affect FOH sound when I switch basses between sets, which is something I typically do (for various reasons).

Bottom line is, set the gain on the MTD to match up optimally for your use. For me, it was about 50%. If 25% works best for you, there's nothing wrong with that just cause it's not as much as I use. :)
 
Yep, it lives with me. It's a keeper (at least for now).

Good for you! IMO that is one very remarkable instrument. I actually got to lay hands on it for a bit...here's me when it was pretty darn new, back when I had hair and a few more pounds around the middle...

3490334648_5948205d9c.jpg
 
Good for you! IMO that is one very remarkable instrument. I actually got to lay hands on it for a bit...here's me when it was pretty darn new, back when I had hair and a few more pounds around the middle...

3490334648_5948205d9c.jpg
Dude, is that like 4 MTD's in that picture??
 
Interesting!

Well, I try to "balance" out my basses in output levels, and My MTD doesn't seem to be that much louder than my other basses with it boosted this way, but this might also be affected by pickup height and other stuff. I'll recheck a few basses against my MTD tonight tho just to be sure. Keep in mind, I always gain balance with the bass's EQ set flat. As soon as you start boosting EQ, especially the bass, you gotta' turn your volume or amp/board input gain down.

Also, on the battery drain, it makes sense that the battery will drain faster if the preamp is putting out a hotter signal, but for me, gain matching is more important than getting a few extra gigs out of my batteries. I don't wanna' have to reset my amp's input gain or affect FOH sound when I switch basses between sets, which is something I typically do (for various reasons).

Bottom line is, set the gain on the MTD to match up optimally for your use. For me, it was about 50%. If 25% works best for you, there's nothing wrong with that just cause it's not as much as I use. :)

Actually, I didn't try to match the gain of the MTD to my other bass. Since this is the only electric I have right now, but I was trying to reach that point where the bass sounds 'hottest' without peaking. For that very warm tone. I boost the low EQ halfway while doing this, coz I want to have some 'room' to boost the EQs when I need them. Without having to turn down the volume after doing that, like you mentioned. Coz I almost always boost the lows. Also I strike the string harder than usual, just incase at one time I need to do so.

Interestingly, when I recorded the bass (will post the clip later) with the signal peaking all from start to end on the recording, and the sound is a bit distorded in my headphones, when I played back, there's no distorted B-String's there. Only the Fat-Warm lows. I love that sound.

So I guess this way, with this setting, I won't be having trouble mot being heard or over heard during live performace that usually involved a big amp rig, and big speakers.

One thing I like most about the MTD is their 'Full Range' frequency coverage, the sound of the bass played accoustically is the same as when it's plugged in, including the highs, which could be too much, and that's why most of us turn our Highs all the way when the bass has new strings.

In this case, most people will think that this is bad, but not to me, I talked with the guys at Aero Pickups, also with Brian Bromberg (whose also a producer, and has Bartolnis on his Bass), and they said this is actually a great thing. 'You can't cut or boost what's not there', said Brian, that's what all the High-End gears in the studio, also the EQ control on your bass is for.

Bottom line, this is why you spend $3000 on a bass for, the Sound... Plus, you can tailor that 'inherent' tone the wood and the strings gave with the combination of the EQs, Preamp gain, and Pickup balance. And the feel of MTDs are also amazing, I can't believe it's a 35inch, 19mm spacing bass. So comfortable.
 
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MTD experts,

How about spalted maple top? I sure do like the appearance on quilted spalted maple, but before I proceed, I am welcoming your thoughts about spalted maple.
I would like to know, if there's any negative impact to the tone.

I got this statement from warmoth.com
Spalted maple wood is actually the product of a dead or decaying tree. The dark lines are created by fungal attack. This wood is soft and punky and is only used as a thin laminate bookmatched top on flat top bodies with binding. Spalt is difficult to finish as it soaks up a lot of finish
 
Does anyone (Vic, anyone) who has a natural colour ash body and neck notice that the colour of the ash is different on the body compare to the neck?

Mine has a lighter neck colour (almost white), while the body has a darker brown colour. Is it because of the finish that mike used is different on the body and the neck, or is it just because it's simply from different wood blanks (tree).
 
Does anyone (Vic, anyone) who has a natural colour ash body and neck notice that the colour of the ash is different on the body compare to the neck?

Mine has a lighter neck colour (almost white), while the body has a darker brown colour. Is it because of the finish that mike used is different on the body and the neck, or is it just because it's simply from different wood blanks (tree).
That's a great question. I'm going to suppose it's just different cuts of wood, since the neck's job is so different from the body's, meaning he'd probably be looking for different grain. Otherwise, it's also possible he uses a different, more durable poly on the neck.
 
That's a great question. I'm going to suppose it's just different cuts of wood, since the neck's job is so different from the body's, meaning he'd probably be looking for different grain. Otherwise, it's also possible he uses a different, more durable poly on the neck.

I think that they are just different woods. Mike seems to like that brown(er) ash for bodies, and I'm sure that he considers different cuts/slabs for bodies versus necks. The 635 I reviewed had a darker brown ash body and a lighter ash neck. I thought the darker brown as looked really great (and that bass sounded phenomenal), so I asked Mike to find me a nice piece of the "brown ash" for my upcoming 535 (with a flamed ash neck with white wenge stringers, and either an ebony or a zirocote top; BEM board, of course :cool:).

Tom.
 
Mike has spent a good part of his life thumping on wood blocks to hear their sonic properties.. My stipulation is that if Mike doesn't use it, it has no acoustic value.
True, but I would slightly adjust this to say "doesn't typically use it." Here's why...

I don't know if there are literally woods he refuses to use at all, but I do know there are woods that Mike won't use in certain combos, but will in others... or at least by his recommendation.

That said, he will rarely, or maybe even never, simply refuse to serve the requirements of a customer, even if he strongly disagrees with their choices, mainly because he understands that what may not work for him, might possibly work just fine for someone else if they really do understand and want the final result, or otherwise, if the customer cares more about the aesthetic than the function, and is ok with that, heck, just give them what they want and move on.

The SMART MTD buyer, will very much involve Mike in wood choices. That's not to say nobody should have a choice in aesthetics. There's always more than one way to skin a cat... and Mike will always be able to provide a good number of options to meet both tonal and aesthetic goals.

This is precisely what happened to me, and why I'm so happy I trusted Mike (words to live by... Trust Mike). I was absolutely struggling with trying to find a way to make a wenge neck work for me because I loved one of its characteristics. Mike suggested ash. At the time, I'd never even heard of that in a neck wood (tho I later found out it wasn't all that unusual), so I was generally kinda' uncomfortable with the idea, but took the leap of faith purely on my knowledge of how much time Mike has spent thumping woods, building basses, and observing the results.

Obviously, my trust paid off.