Thanks for the infro on the batteries, Most of my basses have both A/P EQ. I had a Alembic that they clam the pickups was to low and I was able to still make it a passive bass. I always have batteries with me.
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Well, I guess it just then depends on your tolerance for signal to noise and your ability to drive to full power with your main amp. With a really low signal, you can just crank the gain, but it gets noisier that way too. I mean, obviously, there is a signal coming directly from the pickups, so it would work... I just don't think very well.Thanks for the infro on the batteries, Most of my basses have both A/P EQ. I had a Alembic that they clam the pickups was to low and I was able to still make it a passive bass. I always have batteries with me.
Well, I guess it just then depends on your tolerance for signal to noise and your ability to drive to full power with your main amp. With a really low signal, you can just crank the gain, but it gets noisier that way too. I mean, obviously, there is a signal coming directly from the pickups, so it would work... I just don't think very well.
Just active. I don't think a passive option is possible with these because the output level of the pickups due to their design is very low... that's why there's a third module in the cavity... it's a pickup preamp much like the one EMG uses, except it's not inside the pickups (where it actually used to be a long time ago, as I understand.) These are actually considered "active pickups" as a result, and still as far as I know, the only "active pickups" Bill currently has on the market (and are only available on a USA MTD.)
I'd say definitely talk to Mike on this as well, but I'd think a maple neck with pau/ebony/maple fingerboard, and an ash/alder/mahogany body would be the woods to choose from. Just kinda' depends on exactly what you want... for example, an alder/pau bass will be a little bit more Fendery and an ash/ebony bass will be a bit more modern/pingy sounding. Mahogany usually beefs up the low end and smooths out the highs.Anyways what would be the "right" wood combo on a MTD that would be used for stuff like latin christian music/gospel and some slapping.I really like the crisp sound i've heard on videos but would also love that the bass has a really good prescence.
Anyways what would be the "right" wood combo on a MTD that would be used for stuff like latin christian music/gospel and some slapping.I really like the crisp sound i've heard on videos but would also love that the bass has a really good prescence.
I'd say definitely talk to Mike on this as well, but I'd think a maple neck with pau/ebony/maple fingerboard, and an ash/alder/mahogany body would be the woods to choose from. Just kinda' depends on exactly what you want... for example, an alder/pau bass will be a little bit more Fendery and an ash/ebony bass will be a bit more modern/pingy sounding. Mahogany usually beefs up the low end and smooths out the highs.
Again tho, talk to Mike, he may have some completely different woods in mind that might even work better. Andrew Gouche has some kind of bloodwood combo of some kind and I think he does a lot of gospel, and I know he sounds awesome.
LOTS of choices here.
+1 to what Vic suggested, but I would add a wenge neck/fingerboard to the short list of options. I should think the compression of the wenge would suit your "Latin" needs very nicely (great for gospel and slap as well). But again, your best bet is to just call Mike and ask him what he thinks.
Thank you guys for the info,i heard good things about Mike so maybe i'll give him a call when i'm ready to buy...unless i find something here that works for me....we'll see.Meanwhile i'll keep lurking around and asking ???????? if that's ok with you guys.
I would agree with the compression comment, and that it would go well with slapping, but I'm not sure that'd be a good fit for latin, myself. I'd think something with a bit more upper mid presence, like maple, would be better for those fingerstyle forms.+1 to what Vic suggested, but I would add a wenge neck/fingerboard to the short list of options. I should think the compression of the wenge would suit your "Latin" needs very nicely (great for gospel and slap as well). But again, your best bet is to just call Mike and ask him what he thinks.
Just active. I don't think a passive option is possible with these because the output level of the pickups due to their design is very low... that's why there's a third module in the cavity... it's a pickup preamp much like the one EMG uses, except it's not inside the pickups (where it actually used to be a long time ago, as I understand.) These are actually considered "active pickups" as a result, and still as far as I know, the only "active pickups" Bill currently has on the market (and are only available on a USA MTD.)
WOW! Those batteries musta' been in there a LONG time! I guess that's good and bad news, huh? Efficient user of batteries, but long enough to have them fall off the mental radar. LOL!
Seriously tho, yeah, I always have spare batteries.
What kind of tester is it? I've seen the one type, but it only does 9V systems, so it wouldn't be any good for an MTD.I found myself throwing away batteries for fear that they would die on me during the gig. Last year I purchased a batter tester that you plug into your input jack, and it will measure the voltage and tell you how many hours you have left in your batteries. That one purchase has saved me money, worry and time. I purchased this tester from Bass Specialties. Call Glenn at 215 244-4079.
Doesn't get a reading, or stops at 10.23V? I was told this meter tops out at that number on the display, but the remaining time calculation is actually accurate even on 18V systems, so that's still reliable.Yah, I tried the batt-o-meter and it doesn't even get a reading on my MTDs.
Maybe there was a revision of them. I just spoke to them today, so it's supposed to work.I can't get any reading on my MTDs. Works great on my pedals.
Do you get a 10.23 reading if you plug it into the MTD with the batteries? I ask because according to the manufacturer, the hours left are always accurate, so really, there's no need to pull the batteries out.I remove the batteries from my MTD and test them individually. When the voltage falls to 6.20 volts, it's time to change them. But before they get that low, the meter tells me how many hours I have left before they need to be changed. So if it reads that I have 70 hours of usage left, then I can gage when I am approaching the limit. When I test my Skjold or Yamaha, I just plug the meter directly into the input jack without removing the batteries.
Yah, I tried the batt-o-meter and it doesn't even get a reading on my MTDs.
No, it actually switches it ON when you plug something into it. That's how this meter (and the basses) work.the input jack switches off the battery circuit, so maybe that's why you're not getting a reading.
Does anybody know about Michael making basses in Florida