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The Official MTD USA Thread

#8,221
#8,222
michricker said:
Been shopping for a 635. Found a marilyn with alder body and rw board I like but afraid of how it will sit in the mix with a band. Almost sounds like a deep acoustic guitar from all the clips. Would really like a mahogany or makore body with maple neck.

Anyone have some leads on newer 24 fret 635's? Or interested to sell or trade?
Click to expand...

Any link of the 635 Marylin you're talking about?

Thank you
 
#8,223
Wondered if the MTD Club could point me in the direction of a set of strings with a really tight B and E string..I currently have a set of SS MTD (45-135) strings but find that the B and E can get a little floppy/rattle-y at times

Thanks 😀
 
#8,224
CTC564 said:
Wondered if the MTD Club could point me in the direction of a set of strings with a really tight B and E string..I currently have a set of SS MTD (45-135) strings but find that the B and E can get a little floppy/rattle-y at times

Thanks 😀
Click to expand...

LOL.... tighter tension than an MTD 135 on a 35" MTD:eek:

IMO, you have either a set-up or a technique issue. That bass with that string gauge will give you one of the tightest tension and solid B and E strings in the industry.

Something else going on for sure.
 
#8,227
CTC564 said:
Thanks...it was recently set up and strung by Mike...I figured it was a technique issue

Just thought I'd try to rule that out


Sigh...MORE work to do 😒
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If you have the tapered-core B string, you might want to try the non-tapered core MTD SS B string (which is my preference - I order 4-string MTD SS sets, with an extra, non-tapered B). Sometimes, tapered-core strings can "roll" a bit, but that would not explain why you would also feel that on the E string.
 
#8,228
CTC564 said:
Thanks...it was recently set up and strung by Mike...I figured it was a technique issue

Just thought I'd try to rule that out


Sigh...MORE work to do ��
Click to expand...

The MTD's are very unforgiving... lots of 'winding on the B string' tone that really kind of strips you naked!

However, just because Mike set it up doesn't mean it is the right set-up for you. I remember REALLY not liking Mike's set-up at all when I first got my MTD. Don't be afraid to tweak it a bit. There is no such thing as 'one set-up for everyone'. Might be just a touch higher action on the B and E would set everything right.

One thing for sure, a string change is not going to help. That 135 MTD B is tight as a steel wire IMO.

Edit: I'm running into this situation a bit with the G string on my new Roscoe, which is equally unforgiving. Every little technique issue is uncovered, and the more hi fi, clean top end of Bart loaded instruments like the MTD's and Roscoe's result (IMO) in any sort of fret noise or 'click' being very 'not musical' (versus that nice fret wire grind of a J or P, for example). In your case, I'd consider raising the E and B just a tiny little bit... might make all the difference. Also, make sure the neck didn't come up, which often happens after a set-up (i.e., tightening the truss rod can continue to have an effect for a few days after the set-up. Check the curve of the board (easiest way is look down the neck toward the body with a strong lamp light at the body end of the bass, and look at the shadow of the string in the neck. If it is completely 'flat', that typically impacts the lower strings quite a bit, and you might have to loosen the truss rod a very small amount.
 
#8,229
KJung said:
However, just because Mike set it up doesn't mean it is the right set-up for you. I remember REALLY not liking Mike's set-up at all when I first got my MTD. Don't be afraid to tweak it a bit. There is no such thing as 'one set-up for everyone'. Might be just a touch higher action on the B and E would set everything right.
Click to expand...

+1 Good point. I definitely had to raise the action on the last 535 I got from Mike. Starting out on upright, I don't have a light touch... :D
 
#8,236
CTC564 said:
Awesome...thanks for all the info

I'll try the "half turn on the saddle" adjustment...hopefully that'll work out

Peace
Click to expand...

Well it depends on where the rattle comes from, when you have rattle coming from mostly the high register 14th to 24th fret set the bridge a little higher..if the rattle comes from 12th to 6th fret loosen the truss rod just a bit.. Maybe a bit of both but do it in really small steps... Then bring strings in tune and play it.. Leave it for 30 mins and then do the next small step... Unitil It's right...

Coming back to taper core strings those do rattle far more easily the non tapered... I'm not a big fan of tapered strings.. I normally find them too floppy... But I don't play music where sustain is really that much wanted anyway... Tell me please why arnt there dean markley sr2000 strings without that???;)
 

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