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The Official MTD USA Thread

#10,421
bass12 said:
It's not a big deal for a luthier/tech to plug the existing holes and re-drill for a new bridge.
Click to expand...

a .728 bridge is so close it might not even be necessary, just use the existing holes. The center hole FOR SURE will line up. This is a easy quick deal. If you remove the existing bridge and position the new bridge in such a way that the center hole is lined up, take a cell phone shot directly over the area looking straight down and post it here.
 
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#10,423
Doug Parent said:
a .728 bridge is so close it might not even be necessary, just use the existing holes. The center hole FOR SURE will line up. This is a easy quick deal. If you remove the existing bridge and position the new bridge in such a way that the center hole is lined up, take a cell phone shot directly over the area looking straight down and post it here.
Click to expand...

Doug, you are suggesting I do this myself!? While I do know myself around drills, wood and home projects, this is my 1995 MTD 535 Korina with Wenge neck/fingerboard! That makes me a little nervous! :thumbsdown:

I was shaking just a little when I had to drill a new bass to install strap locks!! :laugh:
 
#10,424
Nightman said:
Doug, you are suggesting I do this myself!? While I do know myself around drills, wood and home projects, this is my 1995 MTD 535 Korina with Wenge neck/fingerboard! That makes me a little nervous! :thumbsdown:

I was shaking just a little when I had to drill a new bass to install strap locks!! :laugh:
Click to expand...

The nervousness is understandable. However this is simply removing three screws. Lay the bass on a padded surface, supporting the the neck and remove the strings. Use a good quality screwdriver (that won't slip and fits snugly) Just slowly remove each screw and lay them aside. Yon can take the original bridge and lay it back-to-back (bottom to bottom) with the new bridge and you will instantly see if the holes line up.
 
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#10,425
Doug Parent said:
The nervousness is understandable. However this is simply removing three screws. Lay the bass on a padded surface, supporting the the neck and remove the strings. Use a good quality screwdriver (that won't slip and fits snugly) Just slowly remove each screw and lay them aside. Yon can take the original bridge and lay it back-to-back (bottom to bottom) with the new bridge and you will instantly see if the holes line up.
Click to expand...
Well I can certainly do that. The bridge ordered is due to arrive this Monday. I'll make the pre-drilled holes comparison between the two bridges and decide my next step(s) or drive from that point. :D
 
#10,428
This is what you are going to be dealing with. Note the differences on hole positions. You will need to drill new holes. (Carefully)
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Notice the A style .728 has a center hole which would line up with the center hole on your existing bridge. Personally I would go with this bridge instead and use the adjustable saddles to fine tune your spacing.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
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#10,429
Here is what's on the bass now.
upload_2016-8-12_12-33-31.png
 
#10,430
Nightman said:
Here is what's on the bass now.
View attachment 926490
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Alright thats an old bass. Different bridge thats not a current Hipshot B style. Game changer alert. However your .708 bridge hole pattern may line up just by stroke of blind luck. If I had that bass walk into my house I'd replace the string saddles with A style just to see if by chance they would work with your existing base plate. Let us know when your new bridge shows up.
 
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#10,433
Nightman said:
So, are you saying the A style saddles have lateral adjustments that will fit my current base and get me to a 18mm spacing without drilling?
This is great stuff, by the way!!!
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maybe... could be a waste of time. I'm not a big fan of filling holes and redrilling over the same exact area. Your incoming .708 will need to be centered exactly and currently you have NO center hole for reference. This means you should not attempt this yourself unless you have some confidence. I would have removed the old bridge, made measurements of the existing hole pattern and checked to see if a new A or B style would have lined up. Putting an A style bridge on that bass that is a relatively straight forward install is more compelling than trying to stay with the B style paradigm.
 
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#10,434
Doug Parent said:
maybe... could be a waste of time. I'm not a big fan of filling holes and redrilling over the same exact area. Your incoming .708 will need to be centered exactly and currently you have NO center hole for reference. This means you should not attempt this yourself unless you have some confidence. I would have removed the old bridge, made measurements of the existing hole pattern and checked to see if a new A or B style would have lined up. Putting an A style bridge on that bass that is a relatively straight forward install is more compelling than trying to stay with the B style paradigm.
Click to expand...

I'm going to look more into this A style Hipshot bridge. I'm not versed at all when it comes to bass mods. I do know that the Hipshot bridges on my Roscoe basses are 17/18/19mm adjustable (which might be the A style type?)
The B style was suggested by Michael over the phone when I told him I wanted the 18mm string spacing. So, if the A style is adjustable and the B style is fixed, then it would be more advantageous to go with the A style. And if the holes align better, then that's even better. I can always post the B style on TB, if I buy the A style.
 
#10,435
Nothing to contribute on the bridge swap, except that I think you'll find the Hipshot to be an improvement in general over the old bridge. I'm just feeling sentimental because your bass is identical to the first MTD 535 I owned, right down to the wear on the front. If the serial numbers weren't different (mine was #58), I'd be convinced that was my old bass! I've been a big fan of MT's instruments ever since...

PS: The B-type bridge is the one Michael uses standard on the current 535's, so no doubt that's why he suggested it.
 
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#10,436
Nightman said:
I'm going to look more into this A style Hipshot bridge. I'm not versed at all when it comes to bass mods. I do know that the Hipshot bridges on my Roscoe basses are 17/18/19mm adjustable (which might be the A style type?)
The B style was suggested by Michael over the phone when I told him I wanted the 18mm string spacing. So, if the A style is adjustable and the B style is fixed, then it would be more advantageous to go with the A style. And if the holes align better, then that's even better. I can always post the B style on TB, if I buy the A style.
Click to expand...

I was looking for a scenario where the center holes aligned but thats non applicable in this case. Personally I would have measured the holes first and held against this .708 bridge for comparison before buying.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
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#10,437
Well, I've already ordered the .708, and I did read where the A style is adjustable and the B style is not. If the holes on the new B style aligns with the A style, I'll just go with the B style coming Monday.
Michael did tell me about the redrilling part, so I was prepared for that, but I'm just not the one to do it. So, a technician will do this work.

I truly do thank your fellow TB'ers for your comments and suggestions!! :thumbsup:
 
#10,439
Nightman said:
Well, I've already ordered the .708, and I did read where the A style is adjustable and the B style is not. If the holes on the new B style aligns with the A style, I'll just go with the B style coming Monday.
Michael did tell me about the redrilling part, so I was prepared for that, but I'm just not the one to do it. So, a technician will do this work.

I truly do thank your fellow TB'ers for your comments and suggestions!! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Yes, I'd have a trained tech do the job if for no other reason than, should you ever decide to sell the bass, you can mention that the mod was done by a pro (something that will make a difference to some potential buyers).
 
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