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The Official Rumblekat Club
- Thread starter user362432
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Nice! I love the look of the blue one. If it wasn't for the extra price, I would have bought one at the time.
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Hello there,
I picked up a Rumblekat as a guitar player, shortscale is so much faster to adapt to (I als have a Ibanez SR300, much harder to play coming from a guitar and switching all the time). Besides, I like the sound of the RK!
Mine had some kind of flats on it (0.05 - 0.1), but the tuning stability was not very good and doing drop D was horrible to play.
So I went and bought:
- some TI Jazz flats JF324 shortscale which are 0.043 to 0.106. The thicker E with more tension should help with drop D.
- a hipshot supertone 3 point replacement bridge. I'll replace the tuners later to correct for the neck dive.
The result are a mixed bag so far:
- the TI flats are great!
- the hipshot bridge seems to be stable tuning-wise, but I cannot intonate it properly because the range of the intonationscrews is not enough! Also near the end of those intonation screw range the little saddles are not held very securely and they tend to rattle SIDEWAYS in the saddle-slides of the bridge! This causes a very nasty buzz! Note that my action is set at 2.5 mm (E) to 2.1 mm (G) at the 12th fret for the open strings.
Also, my first attempt was with the bridge bushings as they were for the Gibson bridge, resulting in the Hipshot being slightly elevated. The second attempts was after having forced the bushings to be flush with the soundboard, making for larger contact-area between the bridge and the body. As tvrtko already mentioned the arch of the body and the bridge do not completely coincide, and I like the 'cork-trick'. I will try that ...
Any comments or tips are greatly appreciated!
I picked up a Rumblekat as a guitar player, shortscale is so much faster to adapt to (I als have a Ibanez SR300, much harder to play coming from a guitar and switching all the time). Besides, I like the sound of the RK!
Mine had some kind of flats on it (0.05 - 0.1), but the tuning stability was not very good and doing drop D was horrible to play.
So I went and bought:
- some TI Jazz flats JF324 shortscale which are 0.043 to 0.106. The thicker E with more tension should help with drop D.
- a hipshot supertone 3 point replacement bridge. I'll replace the tuners later to correct for the neck dive.
The result are a mixed bag so far:
- the TI flats are great!
- the hipshot bridge seems to be stable tuning-wise, but I cannot intonate it properly because the range of the intonationscrews is not enough! Also near the end of those intonation screw range the little saddles are not held very securely and they tend to rattle SIDEWAYS in the saddle-slides of the bridge! This causes a very nasty buzz! Note that my action is set at 2.5 mm (E) to 2.1 mm (G) at the 12th fret for the open strings.
Also, my first attempt was with the bridge bushings as they were for the Gibson bridge, resulting in the Hipshot being slightly elevated. The second attempts was after having forced the bushings to be flush with the soundboard, making for larger contact-area between the bridge and the body. As tvrtko already mentioned the arch of the body and the bridge do not completely coincide, and I like the 'cork-trick'. I will try that ...
Any comments or tips are greatly appreciated!
I glued my bushings into the body and places 2 washers (hard plastic) between the bridge and body with exact thickness. I used Titebond glue on advice from reputable guitar builder. Intonation is incredible and the sustain lasts weeks. I have 45-96 GHS pressurewounds. I don't think 30" is meant to have drop tuning. My strings are 1.5-1.6 mm max.
Hi,
that was quick!
Adding the washers will tilt the bridge a bit forward, which should aid my intonation problem. I will also decrease the string breaking angle, but that should not be a problem.
You mention 1.5 - 1.6 mm, is that the action at the 12th fret for an open string (i.e. no capo at first fret as some people do when mentioning action)? That's great, but that would mean it requires even more intonation, and I am already at the maximum. What is your relief setting?
I agree that drop D is pushing it on a shortscale, but the 0.106 E should handle it I think as its quite some more tension than the other strings (> 16 kg!).
that was quick!
Adding the washers will tilt the bridge a bit forward, which should aid my intonation problem. I will also decrease the string breaking angle, but that should not be a problem.
You mention 1.5 - 1.6 mm, is that the action at the 12th fret for an open string (i.e. no capo at first fret as some people do when mentioning action)? That's great, but that would mean it requires even more intonation, and I am already at the maximum. What is your relief setting?
I agree that drop D is pushing it on a shortscale, but the 0.106 E should handle it I think as its quite some more tension than the other strings (> 16 kg!).
Yes, it's 1.5-1.6 on 12 open strings. I think., I slide one or two washer on front bushing to keep bridge leveled, as you might see.
I was anble to intonate my bridge rather effortlessly with plenty adjustment left. My necks a little curved at the 1st/2nd fret after glueing the scarf joint back together. I didnt put any washers under the bridge either. After putting it on, didnt seem necessary. The sustain and full body sound is incredible!! I installed the hipshot clover tuners as well. They are great, putting the bass in the case slightly detuned them but no problem while playing
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Hi Jasn, thinks for chipping in.
I am also looking at hipshot ultralite tuners, IF i get the intonation issue sorted.
Yesterday evening I rechecked the neck relief and it was a litte low, so I adjusted that and let it settle for the night (around 0.012 = 0.3 mm at fret 7, string clamped fret 1 and 17). I also reset the action according to the classic Fender specs which are 2.4 - 2 mm at the 17th fret. I was able to intonate all strings (just), except the A string, which is still 10 cents flat at the 12th fret.
Btw, I intonate by comparing the open string with the fretted octave at the 12th fret. If the neck is ok all the fretted notes for that string will then be correct. I my view this is the ONLY proper way of doing it, I am not interested in having correct harmonics if my fretted notes are flat or sharp!
Quite odd that I don't manage to achieve intonation, I have asked hipshot to provide me with longer intonations screws (the E and A are shorter screws than the D and G), or at least the proper specs of the screws so I can buy them locally.
Also, the saddle are a little narrow for their slides, and I can move them sideways producing a clearly audible 'click'. The lower the string tension and the further intonated, the easier this is. This explains the rattle coming from the bridge when playing a string. Not great Hipshot!
Ender
I am also looking at hipshot ultralite tuners, IF i get the intonation issue sorted.
Yesterday evening I rechecked the neck relief and it was a litte low, so I adjusted that and let it settle for the night (around 0.012 = 0.3 mm at fret 7, string clamped fret 1 and 17). I also reset the action according to the classic Fender specs which are 2.4 - 2 mm at the 17th fret. I was able to intonate all strings (just), except the A string, which is still 10 cents flat at the 12th fret.
Btw, I intonate by comparing the open string with the fretted octave at the 12th fret. If the neck is ok all the fretted notes for that string will then be correct. I my view this is the ONLY proper way of doing it, I am not interested in having correct harmonics if my fretted notes are flat or sharp!
Quite odd that I don't manage to achieve intonation, I have asked hipshot to provide me with longer intonations screws (the E and A are shorter screws than the D and G), or at least the proper specs of the screws so I can buy them locally.
Also, the saddle are a little narrow for their slides, and I can move them sideways producing a clearly audible 'click'. The lower the string tension and the further intonated, the easier this is. This explains the rattle coming from the bridge when playing a string. Not great Hipshot!
Ender
Attachments
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So was the reason you replaced the bridge because the strings were too far off the fretboard?
Mod bar is needed, without it at the ball end the extra wraps will be on saddle, at the tuner end silk will go past tuner pegs, with the mod bar the silk has a quarter inch to spare
So, have played out with sorted out where the tones I want are. I have one issue remaking, the tuners are sloppy. As far as upgrades looking for suggestions, especially if someone has installed them in this bass. If they are drop ins or not, do I need to drill new locating holes? Thanks
