I was looking at getting a slightly more modern (late 90s early 00's) EOS 35mm. Simply because I could use EF lenses with both my D-SLR and the film camera. Unless I'm missing something (highly likely), you get both auto and manual settings on most EF lenses?
I see,...as far as I know as long as the camera body supports manual capabilities it shouldn't matter too much what lens you put on it. In a fully manual mode you are doing all the setting while the camera body is doing all the metering (I'm not to savvy on metering systems and what is superior to another).
I remember in the 90's there was the EOS A2e and the Elan IIe which were great cameras. They had a function where a sensor would detect where you eye is looking in reference to a few little boxes in the prism; arranged in a cross pattern. The camera would then use your eye position to focus in on that particular portion of the frame.
I don't think you can use EF-S lenses on EF mount bodies, (but you can use EF lenses on EF-S mount bodies). EF-S lenses will have a white rectangle alignment marking as opposed to a red dot.
Before you buy something that old make sure the motors that drive the film and operating and the shutterblade,...prism and aperture are operating properly. Make sure there are no knicks on the film rails that will snag or scratch the film.
You want to look for a clean interior,...any dirt, sand or corrosion is going to mean that the camera will need to go in for a clean and check. Dirt and sand are the bane of film and will leave you with scratches. Ideally, If you can try before you buy,...just load it up with a little 12 exp roll, take some random shots, do some bracketing and go have the film processed (no need to print just yet),...then inspect the film for light leaks,...scratches (hopefully the lab keeps their C-41 processor properly maintained as that can contribute scratches as well) or other abnormalities.
If all seems well with the film, have the lab print a few frames. Bracketing to see if the meter is operating properly (I'm assuming you know what bracketing is).
That said,...the more professional models of cameras tend to be robust and IMO pretty equal across the different manufacturers. Unless the camera has been badly abused it should operate normally after 10 or 15 years. I was a big fan of the Nikon N90s back then,...although I could never afford one. Probably could these days though.
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