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The Soundgear Club

Well it would be useful if your pickups are passive.
Can you tell what pickups you have ?
And also with the stacked coils it wouldn't be very useful...
They are passive pickups. The bridge is standard for that model (MK1). I replaced the neck pu with - I believe it's an Aguilar but I'll have to look when I get home. I put an Aguilar in one and the USA made MK4 in another. Pretty sure this is the Aguilar. They are soap bar pups. I only use the neck.
 
I modded my SR905 with a newer preamp, but actually have not installed the active passive switch yet. So far it's just been sitting there in the electronics cavity, set to Active.

Do you guys really notice much of a difference in sound with your MK1s? I tried it briefly and didn't hear any at the moment, but again... it was some 2 minute noodling when assembling the circuit.
 
Are BTB33s heavy as well? Always wanted one of those.

The BTB33 Volo and now the BTB845V are a bit lighter than the 35-inch BTBs. Both the bodies and necks are a bit smaller. My 33 was around 9 lb 3 oz when I bought it, but it's right at 9 lb now with the GB350 tuners. One think I love about the 33 is the balance. Even with the stock tuners it balanced naturally in a headstock-up position, which I prefer. The 17-mm spacing on the 33 and the 845V make them easier to play than the 19-mm spacing on the normal BTBs.
 
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They are passive pickups. The bridge is standard for that model (MK1). I replaced the neck pu with - I believe it's an Aguilar but I'll have to look when I get home. I put an Aguilar in one and the USA made MK4 in another. Pretty sure this is the Aguilar. They are soap bar pups. I only use the neck.
Well, if you would like to have a more vintage and woody tone out of your neck pup, get a switch to bypass all that electronics...
Plus I have to say, all those little wires of the preamp are of medium quality, so when you don't pass through them, your sound is less "filtered" by the bad wires.
It's possible to have it entirely re-wired with some high quality wire but it would be a lot of work.
So I just keep it in passive , and have a good wire quality on the passive circuit and the sound is really pure, and I never feel the need to switch it in active... I could keep it battery less, tbh
 
Well, if you would like to have a more vintage and woody tone out of your neck pup, get a switch to bypass all that electronics...
Plus I have to say, all those little wires of the preamp are of medium quality, so when you don't pass through them, your sound is less "filtered" by the bad wires.
It's possible to have it entirely re-wired with some high quality wire but it would be a lot of work.
So I just keep it in passive , and have a good wire quality on the passive circuit and the sound is really pure, and I never feel the need to switch it in active... I could keep it battery less, tbh
I think I'll give this a try. It's a far more economical alternative than trying a new pre. Most of my other basses are passive. (Although I still love my SRX which is active).
 
The BTB33 Volo and now the BTB845V are a bit lighter than the 35-inch BTBs. Both the bodies and necks are a bit smaller. My 33 was around 9 lb 3 oz when I bought it, but it's right at 9 lb now with the GB350 tuners. One think I love about the 33 is the balance. Even with the stock tuners it balanced naturally in a headstock-up position, which I prefer. The 17-mm spacing on the 33 and the 845V make them easier to play than the 19-mm spacing on the normal BTBs.

If only they had a non-exotic wood option I'd jump at one of these.
 
I just got my SR600 back from a local luthier (Jack Pimental Guitars), and had a new bone nut made for BEAD tuning. Cost $60, and he polished my frets too.

I'm really liking this because I'd much rather play on the lighter SR4 with 19mm spacing, and the wonderfully small neck than the heavier SR5s ... now what do I do with my 5ers?
 
Just a few nice pics a took today with that natural light. Mighty bass !
And last pic is the premium back plate signed by a famous band, maybe some of you might recognize...
 

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Welp, I picked up a 5-stringed fretted Aerium ("SRH505"). I haven't fully decided yet, but don't think I'm going to keep it.

Part of the issue is that I am accustomed to 4 strings, usually in D Standard tuning. I'm not thrilled with the additional string.

As to the bass itself, maybe it's my setup, but it doesn't sound nearly as much like an upright as I had hoped. I've tried a few rounds with preamp EQs without much luck. The bass itself is also pretty beefy, though not particularly heavy.

Back to the drawing board...
 
Welp, I picked up a 5-stringed fretted Aerium ("SRH505"). I haven't fully decided yet, but don't think I'm going to keep it.

Part of the issue is that I am accustomed to 4 strings, usually in D Standard tuning. I'm not thrilled with the additional string.

As to the bass itself, maybe it's my setup, but it doesn't sound nearly as much like an upright as I had hoped. I've tried a few rounds with preamp EQs without much luck. The bass itself is also pretty beefy, though not particularly heavy.

Back to the drawing board...
Yeah, that makes sense. A fretless instrument would almost be essential to capturing the sound of an upright.
 
Yeah, that makes sense. A fretless instrument would almost be essential to capturing the sound of an upright.
I don't think that's the issue. Fretless bass guitars sound like fretless bass guitars, not like upright basses. ;)

I've tried a few more things, and I think I'm getting closer to an acoustic sound; it requires a bit of technique as well as tonal adjustments. I might need to use a fret wrap, as it seems like the Aerium has more sustain than I normally hear from an acoustic.