• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

The Soundgear Club

#561
You could wipe the strings down every time you play.

When you change strings, clean the board. I've been recommended Dr. Duck's Axe Wax and Planet Waves » Fingerboard Conditioner for this.

I don't use lemon oil for the reasons listed in this thread: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/lemon-oil-bad-rosewood-739369/

For cleaning the strings themselves, denatured alcohol is the best, but use caution when using it. It's poisonous. I also wouldn't use it on the strings while they're on the fretboard. Works best when you let the strings soak in it.
 
#563
THE DANiMAL said:
Wow, that is really clean, I wish mine looked like that inside.
Click to expand...

I was pleasantly surprised when I took the back plate off. It is truly what they say about these SR Premiums...Prestige quality at an affordable price. :cool: The only thing is the inconsistent colors and finishes that vary so much from what is shown on the Ibanez website. No biggie though...I like the grain on mine. :D
I took the back control plate off to send it out to a Luthier that is making me a Wenge control plate :hyper: I wanted one made of Wenge with two Bubinga stripes to match the neck but the price was to much to justify for a back plate. I should have it by the end of next week. Then I'm sure I'll be done modding it. :rolleyes:
The back plate on the SR Premiums is kinda big. Is it the same size as a Prestige? I think one made out of Wenge will look pretty sweet.

CurtisIbanez3.jpg
 
#564
THE DANiMAL said:
Lemon oil is fine, I've been using it on all my basses for years, it doesn't dry the fretboard out. The fretboard dries out naturally, it's unfinished wood, it needs regular maintenance. I oil my fretboards when I change strings, it's part of setting up the bass, clean the neck, polish the frets, oil the board, etc.
Click to expand...

No offense bro but I trust Mikeyswood's words over yours:

"Mineral oil is hygroscopic which means as it seals the outer layer, it's going to pull water from somewhere."

Lemon oil is just mineral oil 99.99% of the time.

The two products mentioned above are good for cleaning.

For oiling, I've been recommended fret doctor.

"Mineral oil merely coats the surface, giving it a bright sheen, but does not penetrate the wood. This oil prevents absorption by a plant oil after the fact. This includes most bore oils, but not all. Read the label. Most so-called fretboard treatments and bore oils are no more than inexpensive mineral oil with a scent added, like lemon."

"Bore Doctor actually penetrates hardwoods, returning the fingerboard to its natural state and making it dimensionally stable. It can minimize the risk of future cracking or splitting. Because of the larger surface area of a fretboard, it was packaged in larger bottles, called Fret Doctor"

I'm not affiliated with any of these people/products, just rehashing what I've read. YMMV, plenty of people use "lemon" oil and are perfectly happy, I'm not.

But then again, I only clean my fretboard twice a year at most.
 
#565
TK4261 said:
I was pleasantly surprised when I took the back plate off. It is truly what they say about these SR Premiums...Prestige quality at an affordable price. :cool: The only thing is the inconsistent colors and finishes that vary so much from what is shown on the Ibanez website. No biggie though...I like the grain on mine. :D
I took the back control plate off to send it out to a Luthier that is making me a Wenge control plate :hyper: I wanted one made of Wenge with two Bubinga stripes to match the neck but the price was to much to justify for a back plate. I should have it by the end of next week. Then I'm sure I'll be done modding it. :rolleyes:
The back plate on the SR Premiums is kinda big. Is it the same size as a Prestige? I think one made out of Wenge will look pretty sweet.
Click to expand...

Your backplate is bigger. The prestige models have a separate battery compartment. Probably the reason it's so clean in there, easy access to you battery.
 
#567
I wipe the bass as I change each string. Do any of you take off all the strings at once? That's something I was told not to do by a luthier. I guess his thinking was that if the truss rod is exerting force to counteract the strings and then you remove all the strings, it is putting unnecessary reverse pressure on the neck. Of course, modern necks that are five piece or have graphite may not even require much truss rod adjustment. It's kind of old information that may have applied more to how necks used to be made - still it's a habit for me.
 
#573
It's only proper I should post my SR1300PM again as it's changed since the last pic, did a fair bit of work recently. Since I got it last year I've swapped the AFR pickups for EMGs, replaced the Vari-Mid preamp with an EMG BTS (vol, blend, bass and treble cut and boost). I feel it's a much better sounding bass now, the mids are much clearer. Also did a fret level, crown and polish, plus I rolled the fretboard edges and set it up to (my) perfection. Plus, I sanded 16 years of crud out of it, then sanded some more, then shellac, then sand, then Danish oil, then wax and the grain really pops now, it looks like this.

jmsr.jpg


I'm entirely delighted with it :hyper:
 
#576
Doctor J said:
It's only proper I should post my SR1300PM again as it's changed since the last pic, did a fair bit of work recently. Since I got it last year I've swapped the AFR pickups for EMGs, replaced the Vari-Mid preamp with an EMG BTS (vol, blend, bass and treble cut and boost). I feel it's a much better sounding bass now, the mids are much clearer. Also did a fret level, crown and polish, plus I rolled the fretboard edges and set it up to (my) perfection. Plus, I sanded 16 years of crud out of it, then sanded some more, then shellac, then sand, then Danish oil, then wax and the grain really pops now, it looks like this.

I'm entirely delighted with it :hyper:
Click to expand...

Nice job! Very beautiful ! By the way, after changing to EMG, I couldn't use the J pickup alone. I found it too thin & the output drop drastically. My usual setting is to turn it a little bit more on the P. How would you set the balance between the P & the J ?
 
#577
Thanks. I adjusted the height of the pickups to suit, the J is closer to the strings than the P, so when I solo each pickup the output is about the same. The J is a thinner sound, of course, but you don't lose anything drastic when moving from one to the other and you can solo either and keep in there. I have the J about 3mm from the bottom of the string and the P is about 6mm. Sorry, my brain can't do 57/64ths or whatever the hell it is in imperial :D
 
#578
Doctor J said:
It's only proper I should post my SR1300PM again as it's changed since the last pic, did a fair bit of work recently. Since I got it last year I've swapped the AFR pickups for EMGs, replaced the Vari-Mid preamp with an EMG BTS (vol, blend, bass and treble cut and boost). I feel it's a much better sounding bass now, the mids are much clearer. Also did a fret level, crown and polish, plus I rolled the fretboard edges and set it up to (my) perfection. Plus, I sanded 16 years of crud out of it, then sanded some more, then shellac, then sand, then Danish oil, then wax and the grain really pops now, it looks like this.

jmsr.jpg


I'm entirely delighted with it :hyper:
Click to expand...

Love these restoration stories!!!
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back