The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club

[DavesnothereCA]

Seems a little light on secure contact, I'd be a little wary of it coming off altogether with just 3 screws.
Thought if you do string-through-body that worry is moot. And the lighter tension of short scales should stress it less.

Along those lines I find the Bronco bridge screw pattern interesting with only 2 screws at the far end where leverage is highest.
But for all appearances the design has remained unchanged since the creation of this model so it must be working fine.
If only I could find a replacement bridge that fits that pattern. It is an unusual screw pattern and the factory replacement doesn't seem to be on the market.

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I agree that string thru body method would reduce the load on the screws, in addition to the benefits which I mentioned earlier.

However, short scale basses do not necessarily have less tension than long scale, depending upon what strings are chosen for each bass, and many of us, self included, choose heavier for a short scale than for a long, to maintain stability of plucked notes, tuning, and intonation, as well as how they feel to the fingers when played, especially if a person came from long scale bass to short.

If you came from lead guitar to short scale bass, I doubt that you would not notice this difference as much.

Still, there are too many reports to ignore, of sloppy strings behaving poorly in those regards on short scale basses, and my own experience is that heavier is better, even though plenty of short scale basses come with lighter gauge, a lot of brands/models of replacement strings only come in lighter gauge for short scale, and some folks believe that this being the case automatically makes it correct and the best choice.

Not necessarily so.

Several brands do offer sets with multiple gauge choices in short and medium scale, sometimes within a type of string [such as LaBella DT Flats], and others by choosing a different type of string within the same brand [like GHS Brite Flats instead of Precision Flats].

A few others will build to order, your choices of gauges and wrap lengths, such as Newtone of UK, and Pyramid of Germany.

Regarding the Bronco, I had not looked at its bridge mounting screws when I had one, but if I do again, I will make new holes if necessary, just to get a 4 saddle bridge of ANY model onto it.
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[RodRy]

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Sounds like GAS speaking, if you ask ME !

But seriously, if a person was going to spend that much on a bridge [for ANY Fender compatible bass], if it was ME, I would choose one of the models of Hipshot which say that they mount onto the existing Fender screw holes, one of the A-style or B-style Fender-specific models, or the Kickass.

And based upon the pics and recent explanations from TB members of what the Kickass does for string length compensation and silk positioning on the Mini, I think that I would choose the Kickass for the Mini, which initially would fit those holes [if I did not wish to move them], AND seems to be less expensive, AND more adjustable in regard to the string spacing.

The Kickass might also be a good bridge for my Ric 4001, though the Badass II [also a Fender direct replacement, and which I put onto it decades ago] is still doing fine, with a couple of hand-filed notches on the saddles, to bring the string spacing closer together as Rics require.
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Oh sure, lots of reasons for any bridge your heart desires.

A question I have, why are the string holes oblong at the end of the bridge? Can the strings be removed by loosening them, and 'lifting" them into a larger area so that one does not need to feed them all the way through the end of the bridge?

To me, the loosen, lift, and remove is a solid plus for the A-style bridge. Plus, I think it looks cooler.

No reason for anyone to have any bridge they like, really.

 

[Philtastic]

A question I have, why are the string holes oblong at the end of the bridge? Can the strings be removed by loosening them, and 'lifting" them into a larger area so that one does not need to feed them all the way through the end of the bridge?

The string holes on the Kickass are designed to hide the coloured ring at the end of the string for a cleaner look.

 

[RodRy]

Seems a little light on secure contact, I'd be a little wary of it coming off altogether with just 3 screws.
Thought if you do string-through-body that worry is moot. And the lighter tension of short scales should stress it less.

Along those lines I find the Bronco bridge screw pattern interesting with only 2 screws at the far end where leverage is highest.
But for all appearances the design has remained unchanged since the creation of this model so it must be working fine.
If only I could find a replacement bridge that fits that pattern. It is an unusual screw pattern and the factory replacement doesn't seem to be on the market.

Perhaps there is no real reason for concern? Considering that Schaller bridges are designed with 3 holes for mounting to pretty much any bass, seems like if 3 was not enough, we would have heard about people not liking Schaller bridges for that reason alone.

Of course, there are a ton of mitigating factors: size of screw, thread pitch, wood density, pre-drill size, etc. I am quite sure the amount of screws applied to the bridge probably has more to do with ensuring that there is sufficient contact for an instrument which is mass produced, could have a wide range of wood densities, and may be shipped globally.

Use what you like, and don't fear the triplet!

 

[RodRy]

The string holes on the Kickass are designed to hide the coloured ring at the end of the string for a cleaner look.

A straight hole would do that, (and be cheaper to make) so why are these oval?

I suspect something deeper is afoot. Maybe someone who has this bridge can send a pick looking at that area?

 

[Philtastic]

A straight hole would do that, (and be cheaper to make) so why are these oval?

I suspect something deeper is afoot. Maybe someone who has this bridge can send a pick looking at that area?

They aren't oval, they're rounded rectangles. That is, they're straight on the sides, and rounded off on the top and bottom. The reason they are elongated is because the saddle intonation screw is also adjusted from the same point, just above the actual string hole.

 

[DavesnothereCA]

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Without commenting [yet/further] upon the relative merits of the bridges shown/linked/mentioned in the most recent few posts, let me say this :

Honestly folks, I wasn't shopping for bridges when we started looking at them for the Mini-P, BTW, a bass of which I still do not own any.

Now look whatcha've done !

It feels like I AM [shopping for bridges].

Youse folks have caused me an attack of GAS !

Like I said in another post, I may just have to order something to make it go away.

Worse things could happen to my time and money, I reckon.

Such as certain particular substances, gambling....
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[Philtastic]

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Without commenting [yet/further] upon the relative merits of the bridges shown/linked/mentioned in the most recent few posts, let me say this :

Honestly folks, I wasn't shopping for bridges when we started looking at them for the Mini-P, BTW, a bass of which I still do not own any.

Now look whatcha've done !

It feels like I AM [shopping for bridges].

Youse folks have caused me an attack of GAS !

Like I said in another post, I may just have to order something to make it go away.

Worse things could happen to my time and money, I reckon.

Such as certain particular substances, gambling....
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This forum will give you GAS.

 

[DavesnothereCA]

They aren't oval, they're rounded rectangles. That is, they're straight on the sides, and rounded off on the top and bottom. The reason they are elongated is because the saddle intonation screw is also adjusted from the same point, just above the actual string hole.

View attachment 4552583

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But of course !

One picture....

....suggests that your strap buttons are still original as well - Uh-Oh !
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[Philtastic]

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But of course !

One picture....

....suggest that your strap buttons are still original as well - Uh-Oh !
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Replacements strap buttons arrived a few days ago. Haven't got around to putting them on yet.

 

[RodRy]

They aren't oval, they're rounded rectangles. That is, they're straight on the sides, and rounded off on the top and bottom. The reason they are elongated is because the saddle intonation screw is also adjusted from the same point, just above the actual string hole.

View attachment 4552583

Sah-wheet picture! Thanks for the clarification!

 

[RodRy]

This forum will give you GAS.

TRUTH!

 

[Mountain Mike]

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But of course !

One picture....

....suggests that your strap buttons are still original as well - Uh-Oh !
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Can confirm even though small they are secure with the "donut' type strap locks.
View media item 26321Seen here on Mini Jazzmaster

EDIT: I have "standard" sized ones on order though.

 

[DavesnothereCA]

Can confirm even though small they are secure with the "donut' type strap locks.
View media item 26321Seen here on Mini Jazzmaster

EDIT: I have "standard" sized ones on order though.

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I bought some straplocks like those, of a different brand last year, but forgot to try them yet, as I already had legacy Dunlops on my Ric and Hofner, purchased before Dunlop bought out the original company which made them.

For what little the plastic doughnuts cost, Fender ought to throw in a pair of them with every bass and guitar which they sell.

After all, they get to place more obvious advertising on them than the more costly ones have, made by Schaller and Dunlop.
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[DavesnothereCA]

Oh sure, lots of reasons for any bridge your heart desires. - A question I have, why are the string holes oblong at the end of the bridge? Can the strings be removed by loosening them, and 'lifting" them into a larger area so that one does not need to feed them all the way through the end of the bridge? - View attachment 4552562 - To me, the loosen, lift, and remove is a solid plus for the A-style bridge. Plus, I think it looks cooler. - View attachment 4552568 - No reason for anyone to [not] have any bridge they like, really.

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Methinks that you left out a word [which I added above], but I get what you were saying.

Regarding the elongated apertures at the end of the Kickass bridge, I looked at the blueprint PDF for it on the Hipshot site's product page, and it did not have a view of those either, though the blueprints for all of their A and B style bridge models DID show an end view, and labeling which advertised the quick release.

Also, I am pretty sure that I HAVE seen a bridge where you can shift the loosened string balls over to release them like you said, without there being a cut on the top like on the A and B style Hipshots, but right now cannot recall the maker, nor whether it was possibly a factory bridge on some bass.

Who knows, if I opened the cases and examined all of my [currently] 15 basses, there might well be such a bridge on one of them.

I'm almost certain that my Ric does not have such a function in its Badass II bridge, and that neither of my 2 Jay Tursers do in their stock Fender P-ish bridges, though my Hofner's tailpiece might allow string removal in that manner [have only changed its strings once, close to 3 years ago, and am hazy about the procedural deets].

I mean how often do any of us change our basses' strings anyway ?

Just a minute while I look at two others which are sitting out ATM....

....OK, my Jag short scale does not have a quick release for the balls, nor does my MIM Jazz with the Lowe neck, though each has a budget lightweight aftermarket bridge, the Jag to match its black body, and the Jazz, I'm not sure of the reason, just another chromed bridge.

However, also by just now examining those 2 basses, I think that I can identify what strings are on each, based upon noting the colours of the balls and the lower silks, something which I have been meaning to figure out anyway about all of my basses.

So it was worth looking.
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[DavesnothereCA]

Perhaps there is no real reason for concern? Considering that Schaller bridges are designed with 3 holes for mounting to pretty much any bass, seems like if 3 was not enough, we would have heard about people not liking Schaller bridges for that reason alone.
View attachment 4552575
Of course, there are a ton of mitigating factors: size of screw, thread pitch, wood density, pre-drill size, etc. I am quite sure the amount of screws applied to the bridge probably has more to do with ensuring that there is sufficient contact for an instrument which is mass produced, could have a wide range of wood densities, and may be shipped globally.

Use what you like, and don't fear the triplet!

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I LIKE how Schaller is doing the string spacing adjustments, using wee rollers !

Simple and effective, and the weight of the strings holds them in place.
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[Mountain Mike]

I'm no wood expert but anyone else think their fingerboard is rosewood and not laurel?
View media item 26337This thing is almost ebony dark, even before I oiled it.

 

[DavesnothereCA]

I'm no wood expert but anyone else think their fingerboard is rosewood and not laurel?
View media item 26337This thing is almost ebony dark, even before I oiled it.

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Mine is not a trained eye, but it looks like you could be right.

I would think that each alternate wood for Rosewood was chosen by the guitar makers to be as similar as possible to Rosewood, so as not to rock the players' boats, as it were.

It also had to be affordable.

Of my most recently bought basses, I do not think that any are new enough to have an alternate wood fretboard, but I could be mistaken, as have not examined them closely in this regard.

Mayhaps a Squier Affinity P bass which I accumulated last year, with the thought of swapping its neck to replace the fretless neck Squier Jazz which I since resold unchanged ? [because I not much later snagged another Jazz with an wider neck already on it, my MIM with the Brad Lowe 32" scale conversion neck]

I haven't decided yet whether to keep that P, or flip it.

If it had a Maple fretboard, it would stay for sure.
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[Mountain Mike]

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Mine is not a trained eye, but it looks like you could be right.

I would think that each alternate wood for Rosewood was chosen by the guitar makers to be as similar as possible to Rosewood, so as not to rock the players' boats, as it were.

It also had to be affordable.
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Agreed

I believe rosewood is/was inexpensive enough as it was (and is again) used extensively on inexpensive instruments.

The primary reason it was phased out was the CITES restrictions that have since been lifted.

But then again me stating it's rosewood implies that Fender's website is wrong and we know that never happens.

 

[DavesnothereCA]

Agreed. - I believe rosewood is/was inexpensive enough as it was (and is again) used extensively on inexpensive instruments. - The primary reason it was phased out was the CITES restrictions, that have since been lifted.

But then again me stating it's rosewood implies that Fender's website is wrong, and we know THAT never happens.

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BLOD !!!! [Best Laugh Of Day]

[Dave wipes a tear from his eye.]

Hey, the nut width of the Squier Bronco bass is STILL wrong on their site, and on those of most retailers who trustingly copy and paste Fender's all too frequent misinfo.

And how long have those basses been on the streets ? - 10 years ?

BTW, Bronco bass nuts are 1.6" wide, and Fender says 1.5".

The only reason that Fender changed their published Mini-P nut width spec from the originally stated 1.6" to the 1.5" which it really is, is that I asked several folks here to measure theirs when I was considering buying one, they posted 1.5" [with pics], I asked Sweetwater to check their stock to confirm, and to notify Fender if they saw what we had seen, and I guess that they did, because Sweetwater confirmed the narrower width to me by email, and within a week of that, both sites got changed.

Some of the same folks here measured Broncos too, to give us the 1.6" nut width number.

Mayhaps I should also tell SW about the Bronco, and a couple of other spec errors which I have noticed at Fender dot com.

So yeah, Leo has left the building !
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