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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

Question for those who are lucky enough to have or have had both a SunndayDrive and a Dr Wattson (@DirtyDuke ?): in terms of tone and character, what would be key differences and what would make someone favor one over the other (the boost feature of the former is obvious)? My base clean tone is covered, and I am looking for not-always-on pedals for a bit of boost, or with some character, from some hair to light saturation to mild overdrive (fuzz covered elsewhere). And I already have a LU on the way.

As a subsidiary question, would those "2 tubes" pedal work with a Cioks DC7 with 2x660mA?

@Sushi Box FX mentions pulling around 1900mA warming up and probably getting by with a 1000mA supply with a long warmup time, but I am unsure how long it would take in practice, and whether the tube heaters are "on" when the pedal is not engaged.
 
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Question for those who are lucky enough to have or have had both a SunndayDrive and a Dr Wattson (@DirtyDuke ?): in terms of tone and character, what would be key differences and what would make someone favor one over the other (the boost feature of the former is obvious)? My base clean tone is covered, and I am looking for not-always-on pedals for a bit of boost, or with some character, from some hair to light saturation to mild overdrive (fuzz covered elsewhere). And I already have a LU on the way.

As a subsidiary question, would those "2 tubes" pedal work with a Cioks DC7 with 2x660mA?

@Sushi Box FX mentions pulling around 1900mA warming up and probably getting by with a 1000mA supply with a long warmup time, but I am unsure how long it would take in practice, and whether the tube heaters are "on" when the pedal is not engaged.
I think @DirtyDuke is the only person so far that owns both, so I would also be interested to hear his thoughts on the comparison. Personally the Dr. Wattson is more my style, I like the slightly dirty breakup it can get. Sunnday Drive covers a lot of the same territory, but it can also get a lot heavier, especially with the boost on.

As for power, tube heaters stay on even when the pedal is bypassed, otherwise you would be waiting a couple minutes to use it every time you step on it. I keep meaning to have @Sonicblaze run some lab tests for me on power to give an idea how long each pedal will come up with different levels of power supply, he's got a sweet setup for that. Maybe I'll see if I can throw him something else to play with this month for some testing?

What colour is Chameleon Sapphire Teal, and how much do I want a Deep Dish in that colour?
This is chameleon sapphire teal, and personally I freaking love it. It's a black base coat with a multi-colored sparkle clear coat over the top. There's a gif a few pages back of it being turned around in the light, and that's where you really fall in love with it.

IMG_20201129_185722__01.jpg
 
This is chameleon sapphire teal, and personally I freaking love it. It's a black base coat with a multi-colored sparkle clear coat over the top. There's a gif a few pages back of it being turned around in the light, and that's where you really fall in love with it.

View attachment 4097247

Well that looks like it's worth the Custom Color upcharge. :)
 
I think @DirtyDuke is the only person so far that owns both, so I would also be interested to hear his thoughts on the comparison. Personally the Dr. Wattson is more my style, I like the slightly dirty breakup it can get. Sunnday Drive covers a lot of the same territory, but it can also get a lot heavier, especially with the boost on.

As for power, tube heaters stay on even when the pedal is bypassed, otherwise you would be waiting a couple minutes to use it every time you step on it. I keep meaning to have @Sonicblaze run some lab tests for me on power to give an idea how long each pedal will come up with different levels of power supply, he's got a sweet setup for that. Maybe I'll see if I can throw him something else to play with this month for some testing?


This is chameleon sapphire teal, and personally I freaking love it. It's a black base coat with a multi-colored sparkle clear coat over the top. There's a gif a few pages back of it being turned around in the light, and that's where you really fall in love with it.

View attachment 4097247
Yeah my Deep Dish is going to be that color.
 
I think @DirtyDuke is the only person so far that owns both, so I would also be interested to hear his thoughts on the comparison. Personally the Dr. Wattson is more my style, I like the slightly dirty breakup it can get. Sunnday Drive covers a lot of the same territory, but it can also get a lot heavier, especially with the boost on.

As for power, tube heaters stay on even when the pedal is bypassed, otherwise you would be waiting a couple minutes to use it every time you step on it. I keep meaning to have @Sonicblaze run some lab tests for me on power to give an idea how long each pedal will come up with different levels of power supply, he's got a sweet setup for that. Maybe I'll see if I can throw him something else to play with this month for some testing?


View attachment 4097247
Thanks a lot for your answers!

If I can bother you some more - what are the respective frequency points in the Dr Wattson Guitar vs. Bass versions? I think I remember you mentioning the guitar version would be best to cater for both instruments but I'm curious...
 
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Thanks a lot for your answers!

If I can bother you some more - what are the respective frequency points in the Dr Wattson Guitar vs. Bass versions? I think I remember you mentioning the guitar version would be best to cater for both instruments but I'm curious...
I ordered a guitar version Wattson intending to do double duty with it, but it's not getting built till next month.
 
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@Sushi Box FX
Any idea how sensitive the Deep Dish would be to tube rolling? Say same type of tubes (AU and AT) but "upgraded" from stock? I love the Genalex Gold Lion I put in my Verellen Meatsmoke, but I don't enjoy the idea of dishing out (see what I did there??) $100 USD for premium tubes if it's not going to make a difference in this circuit. And I don't even know where to begin shopping for NOS tubes...

Can you give any info as to what each tube is doing in the circuit? Maybe one would be better to upgrade than the other?
 
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Aaah yes, he was replying to you at the time... Looking forward to your thoughts :)

I was about to say Dibs but the Dr is penciled in for March...
The clips I heard of the bass version had a SUPER thick low end. Not necessarily a bad thing, but one man’s thick is another man’s muddy. I usually prefer things a little bit more dry in the low end on bass, and especially don’t want any mud on guitar.
 
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Thanks a lot for your answers!

If I can bother you some more - what are the respective frequency points in the Dr Wattson Guitar vs. Bass versions? I think I remember you mentioning the guitar version would be best to cater for both instruments but I'm curious...
Sure thing, I'll get them plugged into my calculator and get some frequencies plotted for you in just a bit.

@Sushi Box FX
Any idea how sensitive the Deep Dish would be to tube rolling? Say same type of tubes (AU and AT) but "upgraded" from stock? I love the Genalex Gold Lion I put in my Verellen Meatsmoke, but I don't enjoy the idea of dishing out (see what I did there??) $100 USD for premium tubes if it's not going to make a difference in this circuit. And I don't even know where to begin shopping for NOS tubes...

Can you give any info as to what each tube is doing in the circuit? Maybe one would be better to upgrade than the other?
Sure, I'd imagine tube rolling in Deep Dish will produce about the same effect as it would in any preamp, as the real compression that's happening is solid-state-driven optical, the tubes are basically used as an input/output stage for it. So the 12AU7 is the input stage and where most of the actual gain is coming from, and the 12AT7 is basically set up as an output buffer.

I haven't tried rolling other tubes in mine yet, but I have a pretty good collection to try out, I'll have to do that soon. I'm trying to get the December batch finished up and shipped before Christmas, maybe between Christmas and New Year I'll find some time to get some good play testing done with Deep Dish.

The clips I heard of the bass version had a SUPER thick low end. Not necessarily a bad thing, but one man’s thick is another man’s muddy. I usually prefer things a little bit more dry in the low end on bass, and especially don’t want any mud on guitar.
It does get pretty thick, and depending on what pickups/amp you're using I could see it getting a bid muddy. As I've said even the guitar version has a pretty nice frequency response, and the plots I will get as soon as my computer wakes up can show how close the two are.
 
Sure thing, I'll get them plugged into my calculator and get some frequencies plotted for you in just a bit.


Sure, I'd imagine tube rolling in Deep Dish will produce about the same effect as it would in any preamp, as the real compression that's happening is solid-state-driven optical, the tubes are basically used as an input/output stage for it. So the 12AU7 is the input stage and where most of the actual gain is coming from, and the 12AT7 is basically set up as an output buffer.

I haven't tried rolling other tubes in mine yet, but I have a pretty good collection to try out, I'll have to do that soon. I'm trying to get the December batch finished up and shipped before Christmas, maybe between Christmas and New Year I'll find some time to get some good play testing done with Deep Dish.

Nice! Thanks. From that description, I imagine you'd see the most tonal impact from rolling the AU vs. the AT.
And yes, please do build my London Underground before you go tube testing. ;)
 
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Thanks a lot for your answers!

If I can bother you some more - what are the respective frequency points in the Dr Wattson Guitar vs. Bass versions? I think I remember you mentioning the guitar version would be best to cater for both instruments but I'm curious...
Alright, got the plots done. There aren't specific frequency points as the controls are interactive and have a bit of a range, but these plots show the guitar and bass version keeping Mids and Treble right at 12:00 and sweeping Bass from zero all the way up. You can see they cover a lot of the same territory, but the bass version has a bit more gain in the really low end.

guitar.JPG

bass.JPG
 
Alright, got the plots done. There aren't specific frequency points as the controls are interactive and have a bit of a range, but these plots show the guitar and bass version keeping Mids and Treble right at 12:00 and sweeping Bass from zero all the way up. You can see they cover a lot of the same territory, but the bass version has a bit more gain in the really low end.

View attachment 4097341
View attachment 4097340
Thank you so much. :)

I think the guitar version will have enough lows on tap... I can afford to lose a few db at 10Hz until I fix that F bomb problem on my Isovent. :bag: