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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society
- Thread starter kranahan
- Start date
More won't break up itself, but can drive another tube pre to break up if desired. Also I don't really see it as a pedal to shape my tone, more over it enhances what is already there. for Blies/Motown I would be (and I am!) using the Grandslampegg which is B15esque in it's tone.
The More uses JJ12AU7 & a 12AT7 in paralel.
You can swap those out for for the same type from any manufacturer or NOS, if you go back a couple of pages on here, I've posted up some images which gives you an idea of how various 12AU7s will affect your tone.
I haven't seen anyone swapping them out for other tubes in the 12A*7 family, not saying it can't be done, but I'm sure Nathan has posted on that subject previously.
What's your signal chain? What else are you running with More.
Umm, why do you need "an extra for traveling"? If you carry a spare in a little cardboard box it's more likely to get damaged than the one installed inside a metal case.
My UA came with a JJ ECC83S, nothing special about it. It's got plenty of gain, there's no need for balanced triodes (that's useful in rare cases in things like hifi amps), don't worry about low noise (unless you're having noise problems in the pedal itself, not counting outside interference). If you're happy with the way your UA sounds, just get another of those and call it good. (Tip: swap in the new one when you...
it definitely will break up if I push more into it, the IR can simply I’ve got for B15 is actually pretty nice to my ears. I think I’m after a bit more tube/valve response/feel, it’s a lot to ask from a pedal with two tubes in 
. I might experiment with some NOS GE 12u7’s ?
. I might experiment with some NOS GE 12u7’s ?IMO the Sushi pedals do give the tube amp response feel, however I do have more than just the More in my signal chain, the Space Heater sandwiches the HX Stomp with the more at the end.
Defo give the NOS a go, I love a Brimar 13D5 AU7
Defo give the NOS a go, I love a Brimar 13D5 AU7
You might get the most change in tone if you try some long plate tubes, sometimes that is better then changing the type of tubes.
Brimar or Mullard are usually nice to my old deaf ears.
Brimar or Mullard are usually nice to my old deaf ears.
Thanks for that, I’ve been looking for NOS Mullards and Brimars, funnily enough most of the ones of found are long plates.
Folks I want to add a Finally to my board. Apologies in advance for my ignorance but can the Finally be powered by my old Dunlop DC Brick using one of the 9 volt outlets?
"It depends" (always the right answer) - can it do 500ma?...
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I have the mini iso brick (one outlet at 800ma) and it powers a finally. V1 just fine
I would imagine your DC brick would have something similar, or maybe not.
Edit: Not sure what model you have, but from what I’ve seen it looks as if the mini iso brick might be the only one capable of powering a sushi pedal.
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If you are getting a new Sushi Pedal then I would also get the $13 power supply with it, if for nothing else they will work as a spare power supply if needed.
One day you might just want to run one Sushi pedal and a few others and the $13 Sushi power supply will power them most times, where else can you get such a good price on a small pedal power supply ?
I feel you'll need one of the pedals with a gain knob to get the drive or breakup. I have both a Finally and a More, the Finally I got dialled in just the right amount of hair to mimic the natural sound of my full-tube Mesa amps. I have a 1957 Sylvania 12AU7 loaded in that. This pedal lives on my secondary pedalboard which I use for ampless gigs, and any rehearsals.
The More is 'just' a tone sweetener, it lives with my one class d amp to liven it up, and it does make it sound fuller and has beautiful sheen on upper register notes and slap/pop. My More sits next to my head and not on the board.
I tried swapping higher gain tubes and it really didnt work for me. I have a whole slew of new and vintage tubes: RCA 12AX7 long plate, JJ 5751, GE 12AT7, JJ ECC81, all tried on the input side (gain/tone). Nothing worked; I got the same result where initially it sounded like I got the appropriate drive sound, but then the pedal would start sounding squishy the longer I played, or same squishy sound at start-up the very next day. It would go back to being perfectly fine with the stock level 12AU7 & 12AT7 back in it. So in my tube collection I have '58 Sylvania 12AU7 and a '68 Sylvania 12AT7, so that's what's been in there all year now and it sounds great (just not hairy).
So TLDR, my v2 More didn't like hotter tubes.
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From the manual:
Eight 9V outputs can handle an average of 150 mA each or a total of 1200 mA in any configuration.
Two 18V outputs can handle an average of 400 mA each or a total of 800 mA in any configuration.
150 mA is a good bit low, even the 18V are low a 400mA.
When all else fails....
Very nice review of the pedal, lets not forget that the adjustable HPF will make the pedal more versatile for other instruments like double bass and anything else you might like to try the pedal with.
When you order a new pedal you can usually ask for a higher input impedance if you want to use it with a double bass, at least I think that's what Nathan will do.
Now...... who can tell us how it works with a double bass or something else, anyone know of anyone who uses it for something else out there ???
When you order a new pedal you can usually ask for a higher input impedance if you want to use it with a double bass, at least I think that's what Nathan will do.
Now...... who can tell us how it works with a double bass or something else, anyone know of anyone who uses it for something else out there ???
I just re-read this and focused on this line, if the Dunlop DC Brick can handle 150mA average over the 8 outputs it means it has 1200mA total and a total of 1200mA in ANY CONFIGURATION makes me think you can have 1200mA on any of the 8 outputs as long as there is nothing on any other outputs.
You can have 2 outputs of 600mA, or 3 outputs of 400mA, or 4 outputs of 300mA, any combination as long as all of them adds up to less then 1200mA.
One Sushi at 600mA and still another 4 pedals at 150mA each, I think the Dunlop DC Brick should be fine to go.
It just took me a few days to get there.
EDIT: I just read about someone opening their old Brick and all the outputs are daisy-chained together, it means it has one output of 9V which is wired to all the outputs on one common link.
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Hey! I've been a proud owner of a Sushi Box Neptunium preamp, and I absolutely love it! This may seem like a dumb question, but I'm assuming the high pass selector switch, the straight line is normal and the elevated line is the frequency cut?
I'd still like to get my hands on a Finally v3 for the HPF. I'm currently running an UA with the EQ off first in chain in the same way I would utilize the Finally. But I've also capped my DC7 out, and haven't added a HPF still.
