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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

#3,941
That looks
Lowendtech said:
I think I’m in love with the LU/PA X. It’s only been 2 minutes but holy carp it’s good.
Click to expand...

The LU (non X version) that I bought used from a TB member sounds amazing! I can't wait for the Wattson that I have on the April order, and I hope it gets sorted out soon as I like running pedals at unity gain or slightly above when needed.
 
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#3,951
BunchyMutt said:
Ok. So it’s a one off?
Click to expand...
I don’t believe so.
BunchyMutt said:
I still have my original question
Click to expand...
it’s not the stock LU stack, it’s the PA stack. Just different eq points as I understand it. Señor Sushi was very magnanimous in helping me realize my goals. I believe he might’ve nailed it for me. A very simple build change iirc.
 
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#3,953
BunchyMutt said:
Cool. Coolcoolcool. What we’re your sonic goals you were going for?
Click to expand...
Pretty much, enough of these clips had me piqued enough to dive in. The higher gain stuff is not an everyday thing for me but right where I’d want my high gain stuff if needed. The lower/mid gain is right up my alley. I can’t wait to get this in a band setting. A good sign is that noon on the gain is very sweet in my setup, so I have lots of range on either end of the dial.
johnk_10 said:
i made a quick clip of my london underground (with the PA tonestack). it starts with it bypassed, then clicked in basically clean and flat (bass @ 12:00, mid dimed, treble @ 11:30), then increasing the gain and finally lowering the gain at the end:
Click to expand...
 
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#3,954
BunchyMutt said:
I guess I missed this. Is that just a stock LU X or is there an option to get a different tone stack on it?
Click to expand...

letsgethandsome said:
@Sushi Box FX i believe will do that anytime. There was talk of making it an actual option but I don’t know whatever came of that. Fwiw, I think the difference is probably pretty subtle but still...
Click to expand...
I've thought about advertising it on the site as it's become a popular request since JohnK asked for it, I think I've done about a dozen now. The PA and the LU are really similar topography, and their tonestack is laid out exactly the same, just different values. The PA tonestack gets a little thicker in the low end, so the "JohnK LU" or "LU/PA" or whatever you want to call it.

Due to how amazing it is I've thought about discontinuing the stock PA and the stock LU and just offering the JohnK LU instead of both as it pretty well covers the territory of both, which is why I never advertised the option on the website. PA still responds a little different than the LU with the PA stack, but they're really close and the JohnK LU is the way to go if you're on the fence about which to get.
 
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#3,955
Now Dr. Wattson news:

I've FINALLY come up with a solution! It's minimally invasive, you don't even have to completely disassemble the pedal. It only requires two resistors, I recommend 1/4W through-hole resistors, and you need a 33k and 68k. These resistors can be adjusted for more or less volume, but this will put unity volume around 12:00 it will still get louder as you crank to full CW, but not blow-your-eardrums-and-wake-up-the-neighborhood loud anymore.

Basically you'll need to remove the output and ground wires that go between the "Sushi Switch" board and the main Dr. Wattson board. This is easier on the older units because I used individual wires instead of the ribbon cable. You'll want to remove this on both sides, as the resistors will go completely in their place. I don't have any through-hole resistors on hand so you'll have to settle for my graphic representation:

Step 1 - remove G and O wires from ribbon cable. They need to be desoldered on both ends and then removed from the ribbon. You should be able to snip on side to start it then tear it off.

step1.jpg


Step 2 - Solder one end of the 33k resistor into the G hole on the Dr. Wattson board and one end of the 68k resistor into the O hole on the Dr. Wattson board. The other end of both resistors will then be soldered into the O hole of the Sushi Switch board.

step2.jpg


I plan to start putting this into all new Dr. Wattsons starting this month, unless someone specifically requests earth-shattering volume. This mod has ZERO effect on the tone of the pedal, the gain controls are untouched, this is basically the equivalent of putting a fixed-level volume pedal after the Dr. Wattson, except now the volume pedal turns on and off with the Dr. Wattson.

EDIT: I just ordered some through-hole resistors and they will be here saturday, so I should be able to get an actual picture of the mod then.
 
Last edited:
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#3,956
Sushi Box FX said:
I've thought about advertising it on the site as it's become a popular request since JohnK asked for it, I think I've done about a dozen now. The PA and the LU are really similar topography, and their tonestack is laid out exactly the same, just different values. The PA tonestack gets a little thicker in the low end, so the "JohnK LU" or "LU/PA" or whatever you want to call it.

Due to how amazing it is I've thought about discontinuing the stock PA and the stock LU and just offering the JohnK LU instead of both as it pretty well covers the territory of both, which is why I never advertised the option on the website. PA still responds a little different than the LU with the PA stack, but they're really close and the JohnK LU is the way to go if you're on the fence about which to get.
Click to expand...

The OG PA is still really pretty great, though.
 
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#3,957
Sushi Box FX said:
Now Dr. Wattson news:

I've FINALLY come up with a solution! It's minimally invasive, you don't even have to completely disassemble the pedal. It only requires two resistors, I recommend 1/4W through-hole resistors, and you need a 33k and 68k. These resistors can be adjusted for more or less volume, but this will put unity volume around 12:00 it will still get louder as you crank to full CW, but not blow-your-eardrums-and-wake-up-the-neighborhood loud anymore.

Basically you'll need to remove the output and ground wires that go between the "Sushi Switch" board and the main Dr. Wattson board. This is easier on the older units because I used individual wires instead of the ribbon cable. You'll want to remove this on both sides, as the resistors will go completely in their place. I don't have any through-hole resistors on hand so you'll have to settle for my graphic representation:

Step 1 - remove G and O wires from ribbon cable. They need to be desoldered on both ends and then removed from the ribbon. You should be able to snip on side to start it then tear it off.

View attachment 4172163

Step 2 - Solder one end of the 33k resistor into the G hole on the Dr. Wattson board and one end of the 68k resistor into the O hole on the Dr. Wattson board. The other end of both resistors will then be soldered into the O hole of the Sushi Switch board.

View attachment 4172165

I plan to start putting this into all new Dr. Wattsons starting this month, unless someone specifically requests earth-shattering volume. This mod has ZERO effect on the tone of the pedal, the gain controls are untouched, this is basically the equivalent of putting a fixed-level volume pedal after the Dr. Wattson, except now the volume pedal turns on and off with the Dr. Wattson.

EDIT: I just ordered some through-hole resistors and they will be here saturday, so I should be able to get an actual picture of the mod then.
Click to expand...

awesome news right there! Never seen musicians work so hard to make something quieter :)
 
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#3,958
Sushi Box FX said:
Now Dr. Wattson news:

I've FINALLY come up with a solution! It's minimally invasive, you don't even have to completely disassemble the pedal. It only requires two resistors, I recommend 1/4W through-hole resistors, and you need a 33k and 68k. These resistors can be adjusted for more or less volume, but this will put unity volume around 12:00 it will still get louder as you crank to full CW, but not blow-your-eardrums-and-wake-up-the-neighborhood loud anymore.

Basically you'll need to remove the output and ground wires that go between the "Sushi Switch" board and the main Dr. Wattson board. This is easier on the older units because I used individual wires instead of the ribbon cable. You'll want to remove this on both sides, as the resistors will go completely in their place. I don't have any through-hole resistors on hand so you'll have to settle for my graphic representation:

Step 1 - remove G and O wires from ribbon cable. They need to be desoldered on both ends and then removed from the ribbon. You should be able to snip on side to start it then tear it off.

View attachment 4172163

Step 2 - Solder one end of the 33k resistor into the G hole on the Dr. Wattson board and one end of the 68k resistor into the O hole on the Dr. Wattson board. The other end of both resistors will then be soldered into the O hole of the Sushi Switch board.

View attachment 4172165

I plan to start putting this into all new Dr. Wattsons starting this month, unless someone specifically requests earth-shattering volume. This mod has ZERO effect on the tone of the pedal, the gain controls are untouched, this is basically the equivalent of putting a fixed-level volume pedal after the Dr. Wattson, except now the volume pedal turns on and off with the Dr. Wattson.

EDIT: I just ordered some through-hole resistors and they will be here saturday, so I should be able to get an actual picture of the mod then.
Click to expand...


I’ll give this a go at some point tomorrow.

edit: well I guess today since it’s so late :D
 
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#3,959
Sushi Box FX said:
Now Dr. Wattson news:

I've FINALLY come up with a solution! It's minimally invasive, you don't even have to completely disassemble the pedal. It only requires two resistors, I recommend 1/4W through-hole resistors, and you need a 33k and 68k. These resistors can be adjusted for more or less volume, but this will put unity volume around 12:00 it will still get louder as you crank to full CW, but not blow-your-eardrums-and-wake-up-the-neighborhood loud anymore.

Basically you'll need to remove the output and ground wires that go between the "Sushi Switch" board and the main Dr. Wattson board. This is easier on the older units because I used individual wires instead of the ribbon cable. You'll want to remove this on both sides, as the resistors will go completely in their place. I don't have any through-hole resistors on hand so you'll have to settle for my graphic representation:

Step 1 - remove G and O wires from ribbon cable. They need to be desoldered on both ends and then removed from the ribbon. You should be able to snip on side to start it then tear it off.

View attachment 4172163

Step 2 - Solder one end of the 33k resistor into the G hole on the Dr. Wattson board and one end of the 68k resistor into the O hole on the Dr. Wattson board. The other end of both resistors will then be soldered into the O hole of the Sushi Switch board.

View attachment 4172165

I plan to start putting this into all new Dr. Wattsons starting this month, unless someone specifically requests earth-shattering volume. This mod has ZERO effect on the tone of the pedal, the gain controls are untouched, this is basically the equivalent of putting a fixed-level volume pedal after the Dr. Wattson, except now the volume pedal turns on and off with the Dr. Wattson.

EDIT: I just ordered some through-hole resistors and they will be here saturday, so I should be able to get an actual picture of the mod then.
Click to expand...
Sonic and I were talking about this yesterday, this divider, you're stating to remove the ground as well from the main board? Or is it terminated as well? He had confirmed, this is waht we talked about below
mod.jpg
 
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#3,960
labeledbass said:
Sonic and I were talking about this yesterday, this divider, you're stating to remove the ground as well from the main board? Or is it terminated as well? He had confirmed, this is waht we talked about below
View attachment 4172188
Click to expand...
You can leave it in if you want, but there is already another ground connection between the two boards, I have two for redundancy. Removing that one is just to make soldering into the pad easier.
 
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