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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

Just looked through the software for the IR module I'm using, looks like it has, in order of signal:
  • Noise gate
  • Compressor
  • Preamp (obviously I leave the digital preamp off)
  • Power amp (PP 6L6, PP EL34, SE 6L6, SE EL34, "TC-3", "CALIF", "BRIT M", "BRIT L", and "DEFAULT")
  • IR (obviously, but you can turn off the cabsim and still keep the power amp, etc. if you wanted)
  • HPF
  • EQ (switchable pre/post preamp and power amp, default is post)
  • LPF
  • Additional presence control
  • Early reflection reverb
  • Master volume
Not seeing an option for mic placement. These are all software-configurable, not on the hardware, so the downside is you can't tweak IR settings on the fly, but once you have it dialed in you won't accidentally mess it up by bumping it.
 
So what I'm hearing is...
Make a Tube version of the Line6 Helix + Kemper + Ax FX3 combined, for ~$400, it'd sell really well.
Sorry, we all must have been unclear. Yes, this is what we are wanting. In an MXR sized box...

Could the Gondwana also have a "talent" function too? I know I could use it.
 
The Spaceheater and Westinghouse showed up this morning! I've got a little time into both.

The Westinghouse tube is definitely microphonic, it goes "tink tink tink" when tapped or when the footswitch is pressed. Not a bid deal, as it's going to always stay on most likely- or it's going to be in a situation where that noise simply won't matter. The pedal is really quiet with the voltage switch on the left (what I assume is low)- even with the level all the way up it doesn't match the the bypass volume. I like it in the high voltage setting by itself. I've got some power supply noise issues to work out (I suppose I should just by a DC7 but I'm not there yet), but when I put it on my one 9v isolated PS it is pretty quiet.

@Sushi Box FX wasn't lying when he said the Spaceheater can get loud. It also sounds great by itself, and I like that I can use it for some nice tubey dirtiness, a clean tube boost, or a dirty tube boost. One thing I noticed about this pedal, for some reason or another, it doesn't like the very low freqs and will make a digital thump noise if my low B hits it very hard. Putting my HPF in front of it seems to make this go away. (Again, not a problem, as I have an always on HPF first in line.)

NOW- here is where the cool part happens- the Spaceheater really cranked, and driving the low voltage setting on the Westinghouse sounds really, really good. My power supply noise really comes out when the Westinghouse in on the higher voltage setting with the SH into it, so I'm off to get another 1spot. If I didn't have to get the car fixed this month I'd have my DC7. Oh well. Priorities and all. But yeah, SH into West is really really nice. I also like that it doesn't really have a tone stack. My between the EQ on my GKplex (that I'm not using right now) amp, and my active preamp on my bass, I have plenty of options on tone.

If you ever figure out how to make a Spacehouse I'll be first in line to buy one, because I really think these two pedals in this order compliment each other so well.
 
One thing I noticed about this pedal, for some reason or another, it doesn't like the very low freqs and will make a digital thump noise if my low B hits it very hard. Putting my HPF in front of it seems to make this go away.
That's interesting, it should have a pretty wide frequency response that can handle just about anything you throw at it, I'll look into that. Glad the HPF takes care of it though.

Glad you're enjoying both pedals, I think there has been enough mention of a SpaceHouse/WestingHeater that it pretty well has to happen, just need to figure out how I want to do it and get it going.
 
That's super weird because it's true bypass, it shouldn't be doing anything to your sound in bypass.

The pedal is really quiet with the voltage switch on the left (what I assume is low)- even with the level all the way up it doesn't match the the bypass volume.
@Sushi Box FX did you catch this part of his first comment? A bleed to ground might cause this + the signal being affected when in true bypass. (Or so my brain connected those dots, but some days I dont trust it :laugh:)
 
@Sushi Box FX did you catch this part of his first comment? A bleed to ground might cause this + the signal being affected when in true bypass. (Or so my brain connected those dots, but some days I dont trust it :laugh:)
I did, low voltage on the Westinghouse is much lower output level than high voltage. The comment about the thump on the low B was referring to the Space Heater though.
 
@Sushi Box FX did you catch this part of his first comment? A bleed to ground might cause this + the signal being affected when in true bypass. (Or so my brain connected those dots, but some days I dont trust it :laugh:)

I did, low voltage on the Westinghouse is much lower output level than high voltage. The comment about the thump on the low B was referring to the Space Heater though.

After some more troubleshooting I think I've figured it out.

I don't think it was the Space Heater but the Westinghouse. The tip connector on the input jack was bent inside and not making a good connection with the cable tip. I figured it out after I plugged everything back in only for it to give me the ugly super loud ground loop noise whether it was on or in bypass.

After opening up the back I saw the problem, got stuff making good connections again, and it seems to be working as advertised now.
 
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PXL_20210510_215217808.jpg

These are amazing.
The Westinghouse has some gnarly hair if need be or sweet tubey boost. I'm gonna find the best placement on my board before the next jam. I ran it first in chain through my board and rolled some gain stages back and it sounded fantastic. But I want to try it at the end to be sure. I didn't hear any microphonics just playing but also didn't look for them. I'll give it a full test in a day or two.
Echosaurus is so versatile. Classic effect with modern controls. The voicing of Age is just what I wanted. Older on the dial can sound like a piano sustain; newer has pronounced repeats. And that Illusion Apple Sugar looks killer.
 
View attachment 4264951
These are amazing.
The Westinghouse has some gnarly hair if need be or sweet tubey boost. I'm gonna find the best placement on my board before the next jam. I ran it first in chain through my board and rolled some gain stages back and it sounded fantastic. But I want to try it at the end to be sure. I didn't hear any microphonics just playing but also didn't look for them. I'll give it a full test in a day or two.
Echosaurus is so versatile. Classic effect with modern controls. The voicing of Age is just what I wanted. Older on the dial can sound like a piano sustain; newer has pronounced repeats. And that Illusion Apple Sugar looks killer.
Excellent, glad you're enjoying them. Echosaurus is my favorite delay I've ever played, and I've tried a good handful as delay is one of my "must have" effects. Westinghouse is also becoming one of my favorites, especially at 235V, and I think when I finally get my board put together I'll have one on there, probably as an always-on "sweetener."

Also for anyone that missed the announcement, all Westinghouses from the April batch have TAD EF86 tubes, which were "hand selected for low noise and low microphonics." They cost quite a bit more than the Winged C, so I expect them to perform a lot better.
 
So most of the time my CNC is the most reliable piece of equipment I have and it doesn't have any problems, but boy when it has problems, it has PROBLEMS. This was going to be a King Nothing, now it's going in my "glorious failure" museum.

View attachment 4265044
How does it sound though?

is that the bit sticking out sideways.
 
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So most of the time my CNC is the most reliable piece of equipment I have and it doesn't have any problems, but boy when it has problems, it has PROBLEMS. This was going to be a King Nothing, now it's going in my "glorious failure" museum.

View attachment 4265044

Go with it. You can call it the 'Vorhees Pedal!'

young-jason-friday-the-13th.jpg
 
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How does it sound tho’?

is that the bit sticking out sideways.
I mean... fine probably? :p I was thinking about just milling the whole surface flat then re-milling it. Would give it a neat look, but would obviously take quite a bit of time. Maybe when I'm finished milling this month's enclosures I'll try it.

The part sticking out is actually from what caused the problem. I have a 3D printed dust boot that clamps onto the spindle so I can hook up my vacuum and suck up the dust as it's milling. Well apparently it had gotten loose (spindle had been running nonstop for about 18 hours, probably got hot enough to soften the plastic?) and the dust boot slipped down into the spindle and got mangled, dulling the bit and melting into the enclosure as it went.
 
I mean... fine probably? :p I was thinking about just milling the whole surface flat then re-milling it. Would give it a neat look, but would obviously take quite a bit of time. Maybe when I'm finished milling this month's enclosures I'll try it.

The part sticking out is actually from what caused the problem. I have a 3D printed dust boot that clamps onto the spindle so I can hook up my vacuum and suck up the dust as it's milling. Well apparently it had gotten loose (spindle had been running nonstop for about 18 hours, probably got hot enough to soften the plastic?) and the dust boot slipped down into the spindle and got mangled, dulling the bit and melting into the enclosure as it went.
Just stick a tube, a knob and an LED in it.

it’ll be fine.

I’d rock it.:smug:
 
probably got hot enough to soften the plastic?
What'd you print with, ABS, PLA, or PETG?

PLA has a pretty low/bad temperature tolerance, it deforms pretty easily under heat. I have a sign on my front door that the sun was enough to heat/deform it over time.
ABS is better (but the fumes are considered toxic, so vent well; but if you do that, it's great)
PETG is usually a good answer, but can be a PITA to print with, it's very picky temp-wise (and some extruder have plastic parts/tubes that melt at PETG temperatures, so caution if you don't already know you can handle it)
 
What'd you print with, ABS, PLA, or PETG?

PLA has a pretty low/bad temperature tolerance, it deforms pretty easily under heat. I have a sign on my front door that the sun was enough to heat/deform it over time.
ABS is better (but the fumes are considered toxic, so vent well; but if you do that, it's great)
PETG is usually a good answer, but can be a PITA to print with, it's very picky temp-wise (and some extruder have plastic parts/tubes that melt at PETG temperatures, so caution if you don't already know you can handle it)
This one was actually ABS, that's what I print with more often than not. I'm not positive that's what happened, but the spindle does get warm when it's been running for a while and that was the only explanation I could come up with :P
 
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