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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society
- Thread starter kranahan
- Start date
If I were responsible I would get that posted on the website so people could reference it while they're looking at pedal specs.
I'm not responsible, but I just posted it anyway. I still need to get measurements for the digital pedals and the Wrecking Ball, but I got single and double tube pedals posted.
Awesome! Please let us know what you think. I hope that current doubler cable works.
Oddly, even though they were both out for delivery USPS - cable didn't show up yet. But since I snagged a cheap wallwart that provides 850ma last week just in case, I've got it warming up on that now. Will definitely post impressions soon.
What's the general consensus with these tubes? is there a warmup for regular operation? "break-in" time for new gear? I understand they are on anytime the pedal is receiving power correct?
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,636
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
my London Underground is due to be delivered tomorrow.
Correct. They have a warm-up time just like any tube, but no break-in or burn-in period is required as they are military tubes and are manufactured to give consistent performance from the beginning of use to the end.
Yea me too, USPS is doing its typical "its in the mail, somewhere..." routine but its scheduled for tomorrow. I was hoping to have a nice surprise this morning but no such luck..
@Sushi Box FX - in reguards to this power requirement, I have the current, 1amp (~750ma more like it) but what if there isn't enough current? what happens? I know voltage loss can cause sag in particular situations but with current is it the same? I just see a lot of manufactures talking about make sure you have proper current, but what's in danger?
From the pedal's standpoint if you can't provide enough current then it just won't work right. What exactly happens depends on the power supply and how much current it's getting. So if I have a circuit that wants 500mA at 9V and you supply it with 450mA, nothing is going to break, but the supply voltage will sag under the load. So where you think you're delivering 9V you may only be seeing 7 or 8. Again on the pedal side, this is not a big deal. All operating voltage is delivered through converters and regulators, so the input voltage isn't really that important. The ideal minimum it would need to operate is 8V, but realistically 7 or even 6V would possibly work if it could get the current it wants.
So when you plug in a lower current supply, if the voltage sags too much then the tube heater isn't going to get the full 6V that it wants to heat up that little glowing filament. The operation of the tube depends on the filament heating up, and while it will technically still operate when it isn't at full heat, the tone will be affected. So what happens? Well 6.3V is what it wants to heat up fully, but this is an analog device, so 4 or 5V doesn't mean it won't work, it means it will heat up a little bit. It may even heat up enough to pass signal. I think 5V is even enough to deliver high-voltage through the boost converter, so if your input voltage drops to 5V then the pedal may still work. But as mentioned the tone will be different, you can expect less clean headroom and less overall output.
I always try to answer questions as simply as possible then I get excited and write paragraphs
SHORT ANSWER: if you aren't giving it enough current it will either sound bad or not work, but you won't damage it. You're more likely to damage whatever power supply you plugged into it.
Less electrons flow basically, I've always wondered this, I know I've heard earlier distortion, the not good kind, and almost a compressor dip when power is demanded. I see these power supplies with a sag port, always wondered about them. Thanks!!!
You know I'm going to be that guy that asks for instructions on those trim pots first right lolExactly, I could have just said that
Lowendtech
Happily trending in my own peculiar direction.
Nice. You’ve dimed everything?How do you like it?
At first I couldn’t get unity volume and then realized I didn’t have it plugged into the hi-z input on the mixer.
There seems to be no audible difference with the ultra hi and bright switch.
To some what match the tone of my p-15 settings which are bass at 1ish and treble at 11ish I pretty much have to have the bass and treble almost all the way up.
Now that’s just me a/b switching between the p-15 and slampegg into the mixer.
Initial impressions - sounds fantastic! I've been A/Bing with my Fliptop, and they sound very, very similar. Main difference I've found so far: Slampegg breaks up at a lower gain (may be because I'm running Fliptop at 18v)....so where I get touch sensitive breakup on the Fliptop at about 2 o'clock, I get breakup on the Slampegg at about 10:30.....and while I love the breakup on the Fliptop (and comparing it to the Slampegg with a real tube shows how well designed the Fliptop was as the breakup sounds just as natural), I think the Slampegg feels a bit thicker without getting darker (hard to describe....it's warmer, but still as clear and articulate....more noticeable as you make it dirtier).
EQ is so nice, and really works across the whole spectrum (can't really find a spot that sounds bad....so great for subtle EQ - not drastic adjustments). Ultra-Hi really adds some nice bright top-end. I think turning that on and then turning Treble down a bit actually gives it a more modern vibe that could be useful (think shelving the super wide Q treble with probably the narrower Ultra-Hi switch gives a more modern upper mid scoop - bright and distinct, but not necessarily edgy or aggressive). To be honest, I cannot tell what the Bright switch does - I'll try it more next time I play with IEMs...maybe I'll be able to notice a difference then....but I literally can't hear anything different through my amp. Ultra-Lo switch is very, very dark. It doesn't just add to the low end, it's clearly really darkening the top. I was hoping I could maybe turn it on and pull the bass down for some Pultec style EQ...but even with the Treble dimed, you can't get the top end back....so that switch is always going to remain off for me.
Overall, it's definitely going to take the Fliptop off my board for now (before anyone calls dibs - I'm still keeping it)...I won't miss the cab sim, and I really want to hear how it sounds with full band and IEMs....but it's a keeper for sure.
EQ is so nice, and really works across the whole spectrum (can't really find a spot that sounds bad....so great for subtle EQ - not drastic adjustments). Ultra-Hi really adds some nice bright top-end. I think turning that on and then turning Treble down a bit actually gives it a more modern vibe that could be useful (think shelving the super wide Q treble with probably the narrower Ultra-Hi switch gives a more modern upper mid scoop - bright and distinct, but not necessarily edgy or aggressive). To be honest, I cannot tell what the Bright switch does - I'll try it more next time I play with IEMs...maybe I'll be able to notice a difference then....but I literally can't hear anything different through my amp. Ultra-Lo switch is very, very dark. It doesn't just add to the low end, it's clearly really darkening the top. I was hoping I could maybe turn it on and pull the bass down for some Pultec style EQ...but even with the Treble dimed, you can't get the top end back....so that switch is always going to remain off for me.
Overall, it's definitely going to take the Fliptop off my board for now (before anyone calls dibs - I'm still keeping it)...I won't miss the cab sim, and I really want to hear how it sounds with full band and IEMs....but it's a keeper for sure.
Don’t take my words about the slampegg as gospel. I am a moron and mixers are the bane of my existence.
I’ve got the hi switch working and stuff. It does sound nice. Just got to figure out what else I’m doing wrong
I’ve got the hi switch working and stuff. It does sound nice. Just got to figure out what else I’m doing wrong
