Could the internal trim pot be set up to only affect the signal when the tonestack is bypassed? Might make the bypass switch a more useful feature (i.e. a change in tone without a huge jump in level).
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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society
- Thread starter kranahan
- Start date
Could the internal trim pot be set up to only affect the signal when the tonestack is bypassed? Might make the bypass switch a more useful feature (i.e. a change in tone without a huge jump in level).
This is something I'd love. The CAB M+ has this but I'd love a real one that emulates the power section of a B-15N.
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,637
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
i finally got my diy space heater working. i reversed the IRF740 and it worked, but it had very low output. then i reinstalled it with a new one the way it was supposed to go. it works pretty good now with a 12AX7. it doesn't have all that much OD /distortion even with the gain maxed, but will go past unity gain by quite a bit.
It's starting to look like I'm not set up well enough financially or organizationally to do what I was planning for September, so it's looking like I may end up doing another business-as-usual batch in September as well. More on that to come.
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,637
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
yes. Mine is every bit as loud as my UA when I bypass the tone stack. Like… really loud.
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,637
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
Just to add another data point to the "noisy with other pedals" list, I just discovered a situation where my HWUA gets noisy. I normally run tuner>UA>MB Compressore>DG Element(or Axe I/O)>Computer/amp. Sometimes I run the UA into the Element with no Compressore. The UA and Compressore are both always on, I never change the settings on the Compressore. I dont even know why, but I turned the Compressore off (hit the foot switch, it was still powered up and in the signal chain) and the UA got super noisy, with the Compressore on it is dead silent. Weird. I dont really care because if the Compressore is in the signal chain, its on and there is no noise, and if the Compressore is not in my signal chain, the UA alone into the Element (or my Axe I/O) is silent. I use the MB 12v power supply for the Compressore and an MXR Mini Iso Brick runs the UA off of the switchable 9v/18v 800ma output switched to 9v, the Element and tuner run off of the Mini Iso 9v 300ma outlets. I tried using a 1 Spot Slim 9v wall wart in the UA and Element and tuner separately and there was no difference.
None of this makes a difference to me, since like I said, if the Compressore is in my signal chain, its on and everything is silent, I mainly posted this as another reference point for the "odd combinations of pedals that cause noise, but shouldnt" discussion.
None of this makes a difference to me, since like I said, if the Compressore is in my signal chain, its on and everything is silent, I mainly posted this as another reference point for the "odd combinations of pedals that cause noise, but shouldnt" discussion.
The wait is over. I took possession of the Hand Hammered Underground Accelerator. Finally.
I dropped it in place of the regular UA and was taken aback.
It is SO much better. The lows are more defined. The rasp is raspier. It sounds punchier and has more heft to it.
Which brings me back to the initial problems I had with my UA. Maybe someone here with experience with both UA and HWUA can chime in - is there a drastic difference like the one I am experiencing?
My UA has that weird problem where it sometimes sounds like a camp fire when idling. It does that even when I run it off a laptop battery with no technical device in a 3 ft radius.
Sometimes it's silent - even in a dirty daisy chain.
When I max out the Gain and Master, it wobbles itself into self oscillation.
I remember that I tried tube rolling back when I got it but had no luck defeating the crackling noise.
My work around was simple: I run the UA after the comp in the chain and I gave the comp a solid bump in signal level so I could reduce gain and volume on the UA, which reduced the floor noise to a bearable level.
Another thing that I noticed only recently is that when I run the UA in my loop switcher, there is a short but noticeable dip in volume when I activate the loop running it - like the pedal has missed its cue and has to quickly power up.
Any thoughts ?
I dropped it in place of the regular UA and was taken aback.
It is SO much better. The lows are more defined. The rasp is raspier. It sounds punchier and has more heft to it.
Which brings me back to the initial problems I had with my UA. Maybe someone here with experience with both UA and HWUA can chime in - is there a drastic difference like the one I am experiencing?
My UA has that weird problem where it sometimes sounds like a camp fire when idling. It does that even when I run it off a laptop battery with no technical device in a 3 ft radius.
Sometimes it's silent - even in a dirty daisy chain.
When I max out the Gain and Master, it wobbles itself into self oscillation.
I remember that I tried tube rolling back when I got it but had no luck defeating the crackling noise.
My work around was simple: I run the UA after the comp in the chain and I gave the comp a solid bump in signal level so I could reduce gain and volume on the UA, which reduced the floor noise to a bearable level.
Another thing that I noticed only recently is that when I run the UA in my loop switcher, there is a short but noticeable dip in volume when I activate the loop running it - like the pedal has missed its cue and has to quickly power up.
Any thoughts ?
Read in another thread that powering a Particle Accelerator with 12V instead of 9 solved a noise issue. Not sure how this translates to the UA though.
As soon as it's finished, naturallyAny idea when the August batch gets shipped?
I can give a quick update on the August batch while I'm here. I'm in pretty good shape to finish well before the end of the month, and depending on how much else my wife has for me to do I should be able to get a solid chunk of the batch completely finished this weekend. A couple highlights:Any idea when the August batch gets shipped?
- All enclosures have been finished. That's CNC milling, powdercoating, and UV printing. Completely done.
- 1 pedal has been completed, tested, and shipped (special circumstances)
- 10 pedals (all More) have been completed and are awaiting testing
- I expect to complete the remaining Mores today and get them all tested
The handwired builds range in complexity and parts count (Space Heater being the least parts and easiest build, Lab Rat being the most parts, Finally being the most complex to assemble), but for handwired builds I typically start with the circuit that has the most orders and go from there. This month HWDW and HWUA are tied at 4 orders each, so I'll start from there and move down the list until everything is done.
I have Friday off work for my day job so I was able to stay up Thursday night until 4AM working, if I have another night like that I'll be in pretty good shape to get all the SMD builds done Friday night, then get a good chunk of handwired builds done Saturday and Sunday. So I can't promise I'll finish everything this weekend, but I'm going to do as much as I can this weekend.
On a wildly unrelated note, I'm thinking about re-releasing Black Eye as a more bass-friendly pedal. Tune the gain stages for more low end and swap out the tone control for the Baxandall like I did on the new Lab Rat. It's such an amazing pedal for guitar, I would love to make it more friendly for bass.
I very much appreciate your time in updating us as you have. A little MORE time will be fine.
I know your website says it is based on the Saldano SLO but isn't it more like the Saldano Supercharger GTO pedal?
Quick Hit: Soldano Supercharger GTO Review
Did my first "tube-rolling" today with my OG Space Heater.
Swapped out the 12AX7 for a 12AT7.
Results?
Less overall gain, but more useable volume range.
Still adds that "it" factor, so I'm happy.
Swapped out the 12AX7 for a 12AT7.
Results?
Less overall gain, but more useable volume range.
Still adds that "it" factor, so I'm happy.
So in regards to the noise in my particular instance. I played with a bunch of different combinations today that were paired with my DIY Space Heater.
Buffered pedals (like my Wampler Tumulus) showed the highest resistance to tube oscillation. I was able to turn the gain up to about 95% capacity before I heard any noise... and at that point it was more like super saturation as opposed to oscillation (although it was still slightly there ever so slightly). Even with the pedal off (because it's always buffered) I never experienced any extraneous noise.
Non-buffered and True Bypass pedals. It only made a difference when the effect was on. For example, with my Ovnifx Smoothie it worked like a charm as long as it was actively on. When bypassed, the oscillation rose and started appearing much sooner on the gain sweep.
Just thought I'd share my experience.
Buffered pedals (like my Wampler Tumulus) showed the highest resistance to tube oscillation. I was able to turn the gain up to about 95% capacity before I heard any noise... and at that point it was more like super saturation as opposed to oscillation (although it was still slightly there ever so slightly). Even with the pedal off (because it's always buffered) I never experienced any extraneous noise.
Non-buffered and True Bypass pedals. It only made a difference when the effect was on. For example, with my Ovnifx Smoothie it worked like a charm as long as it was actively on. When bypassed, the oscillation rose and started appearing much sooner on the gain sweep.
Just thought I'd share my experience.
Yes, I think I said SLO on the website because the GTO is based on the SLO, and the SLO seems to be more widely known that the GTO.
