• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

I'm aware, which is why I asked.
something even more special(er) happens when the signal goes through two tubes (pre+inverter).
if there were two tubes there could be a switch to either parallel them or serialize them to act as a typical b15 with the proper phase inverter.... which would likely be a little like a more, which is why I was asking.
(if it wasn't actually like a more perhaps it could be a switchable option).
either way the sound would never have any tube rectifier sag to it, but perhaps you could use a filament bulb in the box instead of an LED light so that there would be a little more voltage sag when driven hard...
Okay, that makes sense. I won't promise anything at this point, but I'll think about it and see what it would look like.
 
Quick question for Señor Sushi and/or all the learned people in this post:

If my recently purchased More requires 900 ma for warmup and then 480 ma for operation, would I be causing damage if my isolated power only does 660 ma for the warmup period?

Otherwise, I’d have to get a current doubler and redo quite a bit of power wiring, which I’d love to avoid.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
 
Quick question for Señor Sushi and/or all the learned people in this post:

If my recently purchased More requires 900 ma for warmup and then 480 ma for operation, would I be causing damage if my isolated power only does 660 ma for the warmup period?

Otherwise, I’d have to get a current doubler and redo quite a bit of power wiring, which I’d love to avoid.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
That is no problem, it will take a bit longer to warm the tubes and attain full effect. Operation should be fine. Only 30 seconds or so.
 
Quick question for Señor Sushi and/or all the learned people in this post:

If my recently purchased More requires 900 ma for warmup and then 480 ma for operation, would I be causing damage if my isolated power only does 660 ma for the warmup period?

Otherwise, I’d have to get a current doubler and redo quite a bit of power wiring, which I’d love to avoid.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Yup, exactly what @bassbrad said. I'm probably going to go through the website and clarify the current requirements to a single "this is what you need" number. Because while it's true that if you have theoretically infinite current available the More will try to pull around 900mA, it doesn't actually require that in order to get up to operation, and anything over 600mA should be fine, you just may need to give it a few more seconds to heat up.
 
Quick shameless plug: if anyone was waiting for the backorderable stuff to be back in stock, I now have the following in stock and ready to ship:
  • Black Eye II (x1)
  • Detective (x3)
  • Dr. Wattson (x5)
  • Elementary (x6)
  • Glass Butterfly (x3)
  • JC Emerald (x6)
  • HW Lab Rat (x3)
  • More (x5)
  • Slampegg Bee Pre (x5)
  • Underground Accelerator (x6)
  • Venus X (x4)
If anyone is thinking about picking up a Dr. Wattson, Glass Butterfly, or HW Lab Rat shoot me a message first, I'm getting ready to discontinue those three so I'll cut you a deal.

Finally is still out of stock as I've run out of D.I. transformers, should have some within the next week. Dreamcatcher is still out of stock because honestly nobody has asked about it recently and I kind of forgot it existed so I haven't built any :P
 
I *MUST* thank Señor Sushi for both developing the More *and* for meeting my OCD dreams (I wanted black and white pedals only for the board, which all fit perfectly).

The tube warmth and harmonics it adds to my Moog is simply incredible.

Again, thank you! Sushi Box fan for life!
IMG_3043.jpeg
 
I just received a Finally DI (my 1st Sushi pedal) and it sounds great.

I notice that it gets warm after being on a couple of hours. Is this normal?
Welcome to the society.

Very normal for any tube device, remember these are running at normal amplifier voltage so there will be some heat.
 
Thanks, what general low frequency is it set at?
It is a 'general low frequency' or shelving, there is no center point like an active EQ. It is variable depending on the settings of the 3 controls. There is a handy graph if you need a visual here slide the low, mid and high controls to see how the frequency plot is effected. Nominal flat is at RB and RT at minimum and RM at max.
 
Thanks, what general low frequency is it set at?

It is a 'general low frequency' or shelving, there is no center point like an active EQ. It is variable depending on the settings of the 3 controls. There is a handy graph if you need a visual here slide the low, mid and high controls to see how the frequency plot is effected. Nominal flat is at RB and RT at minimum and RM at max.
Yup, exactly that. The fender tonestack is all interactive shelving so none of the controls have a fixed centerpoint like we're used to in active tone controls. The frequency and also the Q factor changes based on what the other controls are doing. It's weird on paper, but it's very intuitive to your ears.
 
It is a 'general low frequency' or shelving, there is no center point like an active EQ. It is variable depending on the settings of the 3 controls. There is a handy graph if you need a visual here slide the low, mid and high controls to see how the frequency plot is effected. Nominal flat is at RB and RT at minimum and RM at max.
That graph is super cool. Thx
 
  • Like
Reactions: bassbrad
That graph is super cool. Thx

Yeah-that tool is what showed me how the various, classic, passive tone stacks work; it explained what my ears
had been telling me....that even with the mid knob maxed (which is flat), there's progressively more mid scoop as bass/treble are raised, which is why, for me, the key to getting the best sound out of those stacks (and my UA and D-Catcher) is boosting mids elsewhere in my signal chain (on my amp). I also love a HPF in there. so that when I kick up the bass I can surgically remove any unwanted boom.