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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

Man! Thank you for the insanely speedy reply! I’m just trying to pacify myself until the Grand Slampegg hits and wasn’t sure how much of an audible difference I might notice between a Handwired unit and an older SMD version. Being that it is an older, non-handwired version in question, I’m wondering if maybe it is not running the same voltage to the tube that the Handwired unit is and perhaps there will be a noticeable difference in the two units? Just don’t want to cut myself short…

Thanks again!
You can always buy a Nobelium to hold you over until the Grand Slampegg is released :)
 
I am actually planning on scooping up a Nobelium once Nathan has them assembled and ready to go. I’ve decided I don’t think I am experienced enough to try to build my own and I’d be better off leaving it to the professional.

That said, a Grand Slampegg is also on the hit list. Though I don’t think one would replace the other as they are so much different from one another. Ideally, I will have both units depending on what tonal goals a gig may call for…
 
I am actually planning on scooping up a Nobelium once Nathan has them assembled and ready to go. I’ve decided I don’t think I am experienced enough to try to build my own and I’d be better off leaving it to the professional.

That said, a Grand Slampegg is also on the hit list. Though I don’t think one would replace the other as they are so much different from one another. Ideally, I will have both units depending on what tonal goals a gig may call for…

I do plan on at least getting the Grand Slampegg and Furthermore. On the fence about the Nobelium; if I really want one, I can commission one on down the road or work up the chops to do the build myself eventually. I have a few more items I plan on purchasing this year that aren't cheap (amp + cab), and not sure I'm wanting to sell some gear to mitigate the costs. Either way I'm excited about all the things that Nathan is doing, whether it's limited builds or new products in general.
 
Does the MORE produce any sort of breakup at all, for instance when dimed? I get the impression it isn't really that kind of flavor, but I haven't found an example of it used on its own. Hopefully I haven't missed any sound samples.
Thanks!

More is kleeen machine....it won't break up. The effect is very subtle IME.....much more of a studio fine tuner than anything you'll hear in a live mix. Lots of gain on tap to use as a boost if desired.
 
Is there an easy way to tell if a pedal I have has the newer SMB board running at the higher voltage?
You can post (or PM) a picture of the circuit board and I can let you know. There's three methods that can be used:
  1. Check the date of the circuit board design (which would require me to check when each one went to the higher voltage and remember to write it down)
  2. Look at the filter cap; if it's green/gold (250V cap) then it's a 235V version, if it's blue (400V cap) it's a 350V version. If it's black then it was from a small batch where I used black for both and you'll have to read the cap for the rating; I use 400V rated caps for 350V builds, 250V caps for 235V builds.
  3. What I usually do to check, especially if the filter cap isn't easily visible, there's an extra resistor in the SMPS section on 350V builds that is not present in 235V builds. If that resistor is there, then it's a 350V build, period.
 
@d00dr to my ear as @Sushi Box FX states the differences are minimal between the SMD and HW versions based on my comparison between UA models. I have a small tube version of the Slampegg Bee that us a bit different and IMHO closer to the original B15 sound when compared to a 12ax7 SB, but just a very small bit and both sound great.

I am looking forward to the Grand Slampegg and Cascade.
 
You can post (or PM) a picture of the circuit board and I can let you know. There's three methods that can be used:
  1. Check the date of the circuit board design (which would require me to check when each one went to the higher voltage and remember to write it down)
  2. Look at the filter cap; if it's green/gold (250V cap) then it's a 235V version, if it's blue (400V cap) it's a 350V version. If it's black then it was from a small batch where I used black for both and you'll have to read the cap for the rating; I use 400V rated caps for 350V builds, 250V caps for 235V builds.
  3. What I usually do to check, especially if the filter cap isn't easily visible, there's an extra resistor in the SMPS section on 350V builds that is not present in 235V builds. If that resistor is there, then it's a 350V build, period.
You can post (or PM) a picture of the circuit board and I can let you know. There's three methods that can be used:
  1. Check the date of the circuit board design (which would require me to check when each one went to the higher voltage and remember to write it down)
  2. Look at the filter cap; if it's green/gold (250V cap) then it's a 235V version, if it's blue (400V cap) it's a 350V version. If it's black then it was from a small batch where I used black for both and you'll have to read the cap for the rating; I use 400V rated caps for 350V builds, 250V caps for 235V builds.
  3. What I usually do to check, especially if the filter cap isn't easily visible, there's an extra resistor in the SMPS section on 350V builds that is not present in 235V builds. If that resistor is there, then it's a 350V build, period.
Perfect, was able to check the various pedals I had picked up used and confirmed my slampegg is the newer board, my black eye II and JC Emerald are the older 250mA boards. So if I really dig the black eye, in theory I may love it even more if it was a newer one?
 
@Dangolano I can confirm that the updated JC Emerald with the deep and Brite options is brilliant on bass and guitar. Mine lives on my guitar/piccolo bass board for crunch and have a @johnk_10 FET-F2B for my 'clean' sounds. I also plan to use that board in a stereo setup with my split output Carvin LB50 basses if a project in discussion phase comes to pass.
 
@Dangolano I can confirm that the updated JC Emerald with the deep and Brite options is brilliant on bass and guitar. Mine lives on my guitar/piccolo bass board for crunch and have a @johnk_10 FET-F2B for my 'clean' sounds. I also plan to use that board in a stereo setup with my split output Carvin LB50 basses if a project in discussion phase comes to pass.

cool, looks like I may need to set aside some cash for some pedal upgrades. :)
 
Perfect, was able to check the various pedals I had picked up used and confirmed my slampegg is the newer board, my black eye II and JC Emerald are the older 250mA boards. So if I really dig the black eye, in theory I may love it even more if it was a newer one?
Actually the current Black Eye II and JC Emerald are still running 235V, I haven't moved them over yet. JC Emerald probably will move, Black Eye II might not. Typically one of the results of a higher plate voltage is clean headroom, and that's not really important for Black Eye II. I may play with it though.
 
More on the board! Sounds really sweet and gives good tube richness to my tone. Headphones only at the moment, but I'm sure it will warm things up nicely through my active cab at rehearsals with the bands next week.
IMG_20240216_145828.jpg
 
A considerable amount. Bassdude is based on the tweed Bassman, which runs a pair of 12AX7 for a delightfully rich, warm sound with a nice bite and a fair amount of gain on tap. Nobelium is based on the Noble, which uses a pair of 12AU7 for a completely clean, no dirt, largely transparent preamp.


I mean I would generally consider having two DIs on the same board overkill, but I guess if you're using one as a preamp for flavor and the other as a DI that also happens to have some flavor, I could see it making some sense if you're using them together with a modeler.

so how critical are the hi pass an low pass filters in your opinion? An also would you say the Noble is considerable to Alembic. Or fender tone stack just over drive tone not distortion. I’ve finally learned “sorta” what to start do to get my tone. My genes of music seems to be more high end treble basses in the jam scene like modulus, Alembic, things like that. I have a Spector not the most treble oriented an just more punchy. I think these pedals will be my key to getting the tone I hope for. Now it’s just to clean. I have a 800 head genzler magellan amp head an I need to be able to push it to breakup a Little more.

I want a second DI option other than my head. I mean the head sounds great but id love preamp pedal to be di/pre/eq I’ve been ssoo close to buying the UA for the alembic growl and just clean breakup not distortion. It seems like the Noble, Venus, or maybe bassman pedal for example could be a couple pedals in one for me. Eq features being a big plus along with the hi lo filters
 
my local Music Go Round just got an Elementary in, and I swapped my Dr Wattson for it. I always found the Doc a little dark, and the output was touchy, with minimal room for a clean sound. I mean, thats the point, right? more of a high gain Hiwatt sound? anyway, the Elementary is exactly what I wanted, clean bright, and high headroom. Tried it on my bass and my guitar and so far, its a winner. They also have a Slampeg, and Im sorely tempted. I dont NEED another B15 sim, but.... :)