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Thunderbird Club

Some questions, by not seating do you mean the tool was too loose or tight or you just couldn't get it to slide down onto the nut fully because the tool was too big for the opening?

How badly damaged is the nut? Are you able to get it out and replace it with a new one? If it's tight you can support both ends of the neck (not headstock) and press down in the middle of the neck a little to get the pressure off the nut. Use a clamp to apply pressure to the neck and only a very little pressure then you will have both hands and your eyes free to work on the nut. That's a good way I think to adjust the truss rod anyway as it takes the load off the nut while making the adjustment
It seems just a tad bit too loose.
The nut isnt badly damaged but i can tell where me turning on it was wearing at it.
Il
 
I'd let someone off ozbass come around to try a bass out, but not a random bod off eBay/Gumtree. Paypal is not a problem.





Investigated shipping options on Reverb.com but they were eye-wateringly expensive.


I have bought and sold a couple of things on Gumtree . Its ok but as I said there are a few time wasters will email you , then not come back and be prepared for the odd low ball offer . But its free so probably worth using .
 
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It seems just a tad bit too loose.
The nut isnt badly damaged but i can tell where me turning on it was wearing at it.
Il

I've found the best type of truss rod wrench to use is a 1/4" drive 5/16" deep socket on a screwdriver type handle. Those angled Gibson style wrenches can be difficult to get on the nut. Correct nut is brass BTW, is yours?

(this style only using parts from a cheapo socket set)
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Stage pic is mine, bedroom pic is from previous owners ad. Gonna go to those links and try to date it soon. Maybe post the video I found from that show. I literally got the bass on a Wednesday night before a thursday practice for a Saturday show, my first with the band. So Wednesday night was spent setting it up.

I'll take a #
 
I've found the best type of truss rod wrench to use is a 1/4" drive 5/16" deep socket on a screwdriver type handle. Those angled Gibson style wrenches can be difficult to get on the nut. Correct nut is brass BTW, is yours?

(this style only using parts from a cheapo socket set)
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I use a small 1/4" drive ratchet. But on one of those, the nut was giving me issues like mentioned.

I found i needed a different socket as the outside of the socket was to wide to fit all the way in the hole and engage the nut
 
Do the Epiphone models need a special tool to ? Or just an allen key ? Ive not checked mine yet .
I just used a regular hex key on the goth. The trick is use the short end into the but, loosen the a and d string and move them to the side for room to make the adjustment. A long shaft type with handle is always better, but I don't have that size.

To the guy with the stripped nut, maybe a stew Mac gripper wrench is the answer.
 
Do the Epiphone models need a special tool to ? Or just an allen key ? Ive not checked mine yet .

Epiphone needs an Allen/Hex key to adjust the truss rod - But beware, since they are made in Asia, you will need a set of metric Allen keys for them.
 
It seems just a tad bit too loose.
The nut isnt badly damaged but i can tell where me turning on it was wearing at it.
Il
Couple thoughts other than the Stew Mac tool

Since you are state side, Home Depot sells 1/4" drive sockets that have round drive lugs inside the socket instead of a hex. This allows you to drive the nut further back from the corner of the nut
Occasionally you can use a metric socket that is smaller.

Either way, i would replace the nut once its freed
 
low res video, good sound quality (other than the kick drum mic issue)

better closer video, distorted sound. I don't normally play in ninja socks and flip flops, but I was dealing with what ended up becoming this after a trip to the podiatrist.IMG_20161206_141032311_HDR.jpg anyone seen district 9? Don't wait several weeks to have a Dr look at a painful ingrown toenail! Bye bye toenail! (Taking forever to grow back, but the pain is gone and can wear shoes again).

TMI! But had to explain my awkward footwear because it is easy to see in the close video. Also have slung it lower since then, had a bruise on the forearm from the bird that night. Plus it looks cooler despite the ergonomics that make it necessary. Car designers don't think about bass ergonomics!
 
Dated my bird, august 2006, Saein factory in Korea. Still my "youngest bass", but the ibanez SR500 I traded for it was a year younger 2007 from the CP factories in Korea, Cort and forgot what the P was, but remember it was a 2 factory build.

I'm glad this bird is over 10 yrs old, and MIK, I assume the current $299/349 goths are now China/Indonesia?
 
Couple thoughts other than the Stew Mac tool

Since you are state side, Home Depot sells 1/4" drive sockets that have round drive lugs inside the socket instead of a hex. This allows you to drive the nut further back from the corner of the nut
Occasionally you can use a metric socket that is smaller.

Either way, i would replace the nut once its freed

I think i'm going to to try that. The 5/16 seems a little too big.
Funny enough, I had the nut changed when I bought the bass by my local luthier because whoever owned before me had completely stripped it.
 
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I think i'm going to to try that. The 5/16 seems a little too big.
Funny enough, I had the nut changed when I bought the bass by my local luthier because whoever owned before me had completely stripped it.
Sucky. Unfortunately, the external drives are the least troublesome (heel wheels and bullets) are the least used.

Im that guy that will buy a specific tool just to work on a specific bass. For the Epiphons i have a socket driven 8" long metric allen set.
Then i can reach in without touching the strings as @ubernator spoke of
 
Sucky. Unfortunately, the external drives are the least troublesome (heel wheels and bullets) are the least used.

Im that guy that will buy a specific tool just to work on a specific bass. For the Epiphons i have a socket driven 8" long metric allen set.
Then i can reach in without touching the strings as @ubernator spoke of
The right tool for the job always makes the job easier and the results better. :thumbsup:
 
Continued: Stock 3 point bridge replacement on 2009/12 Epiphone bird, with Babicz aftermarket replacement bridge.
IMG_20161230_240226558_zpsd7wsfryk.jpg

I ended up using a Q-Tip added water to the sides of the holes. After doing that a bunch, the holes were probably about 1/4 full of water. I occasionally, every half hour or so, used a Q-Tip to drag that water up and down the sides of the holes.
Let it dry for a day and a half or so. The holes had grooves in them from where the bushings had been. After the water dried up those grooves went away and the holes swelled up and looked kinda fuzzy. I used a piece of wood over the bushings and tapped them in with a hammer. They were very snug.
 
Continued: Stock 3 point bridge replacement on 2009/12 Epiphone bird, with Babicz aftermarket replacement bridge.
IMG_20161230_240226558_zpsd7wsfryk.jpg

I ended up using a Q-Tip added water to the sides of the holes. After doing that a bunch, the holes were probably about 1/4 full of water. I occasionally, every half hour or so, used a Q-Tip to drag that water up and down the sides of the holes.
Let it dry for a day and a half or so. The holes had grooves in them from where the bushings had been. After the water dried up those grooves went away and the holes swelled up and looked kinda fuzzy. I used a piece of wood over the bushings and tapped them in with a hammer. They were very snug.
Be good as new now
 
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